Peru and Mexico

 Saturday, 22nd February

The start of my journey to Lima. My plane was at 00.10, tomorrow! So it was a long day ahead. I had a leisurely drive to Ourense; a walk to the station; a cup of coffee; a wait for the train and a speedy journey to Madrid.  I had received information from RENFE, the Spanish train company, about my ticket being used for Cercania trains in Madrid. I didn't really understand this until I arrived at Chamartin station. I knew that they had been doing work here but they have changed it completely. I found that I had no need to go into the main station at all, now there is a long underpass and stairs to all the platforms, with a screen giving information on departures. I just missed a train to the airport but it was not a problem, I had loads of time. I had a 30 minute wait for the next train and then a quick trip to the airport. I was 4 hours early, I joined the queue for check-in but then the desk closed so I left and went in search of food and a glass of wine. I spent a happy half hour and then returned to check-in and a longer queue, but again 'no problem', I was going to have to wait somewhere.
I got rid of my case and headed for the security, there was no queue! It was the quickest security check ever, then I had a long meander to Terminal 4S. It was miles! I wouldn't like to have to do that if I were in a hurry. I still had a while to wait before going to the departure gate but eventually I got there. I changed the time on my watch to Peru time, Spanish time -6 hours, so it was now nearly 17.00! Eventually we boarded, then they served a meal, I wasn't hungry but I accepted a bottle of water and a drink of orange juice and settled down to wait!

Sunday;

It was a long night, I slept for lots of very short periods and I was awake for a lot more.

Eventually we were served breakfast and we arrived 30 minutes early. This altered my plans a bit. I couldn't check in to my accommodation until 15.00 so I had booked luggage storage and a bus trip around Lima from 11.00 to 14.30. Now I was early there was potential for doing a different trip at 09.30. 

I discovered that the ATMs would only give 400 Soles and the one in the airport would not accept my Spanish card. This was a major problem, as I had to pay for my accommodation, 900+ Soles, in cash. I asked at a Money Exchange and they could give me cash on my card so I was OK. I headed for the airport bus and caught an earlier one than I had anticipated. I now had time to store my luggage, have a coffee and get to the 9.30 bus trip. 

Huaca Pucllana!

 Initially it was pouring with rain, fortunately this stopped when it was time to walk around the historic centre.

I got back to Miraflores in time to have lunch before picking up my luggage and heading for the apartment. By this time I was really exhausted and I was expecting to have to wait for someone to come for my money. Fortunately the owner agreed to put off his visit till the morning so I showered and went to bed.

Monday

A good 12 hours sleep. Fortunately I had brought coffee and something to eat as there was nothing in the apartment. I have never stayed in an apartment that did not provide something to drink! Then I discovered that the TV didn't work. The guy was coming between 10 & 11, which meant postponing going out, this was a little annoying as the weather is hot. The guy was punctual but not helpful about the TV.

When he left I took a short walk to investigate the Inca site of Huaca Pucllana that I had seen from the bus the day before. I arrived to find that there was an English language group just about to start. You have to do a guided tour, not what I had planned but it made sense, there was no way I could have seen it properly without a guide. 

A seismic proof wall!

There was a very nice Italian restaurant just by the entrance so I treated myself again, then walked back via the supermarket.  I had a long WhatsApp chat with the owners about the TV but no progress.

Tuesday

It started well; it didn't finish badly, just not the way I had expected. I started by taking the Metropolitano, this is a kind of over ground bus metro, to the bus station, to check on the route for tomorrow. 

A very helpful lady helped me to get my ticket and pointed me to the access to Line C. This was great, I got to the bus station without a problem, and returned to Line C to continue my journey to Collao; unfortunately, at this point I should have taken Line B!! Eventually I saw a map of the line and realised that I was not where I expected to be, in fact I was quite close but without a map I had no idea. So I returned to my studio. I knew that there was a bus to Callao from the road outside, so, after a coffee I caught the bus. Callao is a small town, adjacent to Lima, and very busy, I had no idea exactly where the bus would stop, but eventually I decided to get off and to proceed on foot. and head, hopefully, in the right direction. by good luck I managed to get to the fortress. The port here was of major importance in the 19th Century and the fort played a big part in the fight for independence.

I managed to find a bus to return to Miraflores, by this time it was 14.30 and I was hot, tired and hungry so I went to the expensive Swiss restaurant close to where I was staying. Then back to relax and prepare for tomorrows trip to Nazca.

Wednesday

I was awake early, so I got up. It meant that I left early, the upside to this was that I missed the rush hour and there was plenty of room on the bus. It also meant a long wait at the coach station, but no problem.

I had a coffee and bought a sandwich and some fruit to eat on the coach. then at the departure gate we were given a bag with water and some biscuits! The coach was ultra comfortable!

The journey was incredible. I had been told by the guide on Sunday that Lima is in a desert but virtually the entire journey was desert, once up in the mountains, after Ica, it almost looked like a lunar landscape.

The coach was late but not a problem, my hotel was very near to the coach station and I just relaxed for the evening, ready for tomorrow's excitement.

Thursday

I was to be picked up at 08.00 and I was ready and waiting, the same could not be said of the other people to be picked up elsewhere.  I am short on patience and sitting waiting for 20 minutes whilst other people condescended to arrive and then pranced around their reception area taking photos made me really cross, then one was in fancy dress!! When we arrived at the airport we were weighed and then had to pay taxes in two separate offices, at one I was not given a receipt, I realised this a little later but didn't know how important it was. Before going out to the plane we had to hand over  the receipts! A Mexican woman, one who had kept me waiting, decided that this was my fault because I have dementia, she then proceeded to treat me accordingly!! Eventually it was sorted, and we made our way to the plane, the Mexican woman mumbling about how I shouldn't be alone!!! 

We were allocated seats on the plane by weight. There was a back door and a front door but the seats in the middle didn't have a door. Needless to say I had a middle seat, this meant climbing through a narrow space and over the seat. I have never been very flexible and this was quite a challenge but I managed to get in. The lines were very difficult to see, there were lines everywhere, not just the well known shapes, and a lot of dried streams as well. I managed to see a few and was very pleased.

There is a giant spider here but impossible to make out

My certificate

We all survived and no-one was sick, and the Mexican bikers weren't bad really, especially as the woman didn't do the flight. Getting out of the plane was problematic but with a very strong helping hand from ground crew I managed it. I expect the biker behind me would have given me a push if necessary!

It was a unique experience and I am so glad that I did it. I managed a little visit to Nazca town and then went to the bus station to wait for the bus back to Lima. We left on time but, very early in the journey we hit a very long traffic jam, due to an accident a long way ahead. We were on a narrow mountain road, we lost 2 hours here and then came to another accident later on. In the end we arrived back in Lima 3 hours late. Fortunately I was returning to the studio I had been in, the concierge let me in to the building. It was good to come back to something I recognised as 'home'.

Friday

A leisurely day, a little wander around Miraflores and sorting out the stuff I need for tomorrow.

Saturday

I woke early, which was just as well as I left early. I stopped at a bank to take out money and discovered that I had left my handbag behind! So I returned and collected my handbag, just as well that I was able to re-enter my room! Off to the airport, checking in luggage was automatic and security was quick so I was far too early, but at least I was in the right place. Unfortunately the flight was at 11.40 I had a few odd nibbles in the airport, food on the plane was also a nibble and in Juliaca airport I was met for an hours drive to Puno, by this time I didn't know if I had a headache and felt rough from hunger or the altitude. Puno and Lake Titicaca are at 3,800 metres. after I checked in to the hostal I went to the supermarket to buy food, at least I could sort out my hunger! I thought Puno would be flat as it is next to the lake bit it is very, very hilly. I was here for a few days to acclimatize! 

Sunday

I thought I was getting a cold but I went out to look around. I was desperate for a coffee but I couldn't find anywhere open in the town.

Then I headed for the lake, it was further than I expected and I had to sit down for a rest, the first time I've had to do that! Then I found a place that did coffee, they also did 'mate', a South American infusion of something. The owner came to the door and I said that I thought a mate might be an idea, he brought me a mate of coca leaves, the recommended treatment for altitude sickness. I then progressed to the end of the road and saw the lake.

The walk back seemed very long. I had a rest and then went to the restaurant across the road for lunch. The serving was enormous and as soon as I saw it I lost my appetite. I couldn't eat it and I hate wasting food. When I returned to the hostal I found that there were coca leaves in the kitchen so I made another infusion and rested. Exhaustion when walking, especially uphill and loss of appetite were my symptoms for the next few days.

Monday

I was struggling. Walking on the flat was almost OK but the slightest rise was difficult. I went to the Coca museum first this was good, the top floor was dedicated to dance costumes, Puno is recognised as Peru's folklore centre, apparently there are more than 300 ethnic dances, each with it's own ornate costume.

Then I walked up to the Independence Arch, which was very uphill.

I tried to find the market but took a wrong turn. I had a pizza for lunch, not a big one but it was a struggle to eat it, then back to my room for a rest.

Tuesday

I took a boat trip to the Uros Islands, an ancient way of living on the lake, with islands made of reeds. These days the islands are somewhat geared to tourists and making money, but everyone has to live somehow and tourists are prepared to pay money to see how they live.

I met some nice French Canadians on the trip. I was shattered when I got in and was happy to collapse into bed.

Wednesday

An early morning with nothing to do. I opted to have a coffee and snack for an early lunch. I met a very pleasant Canadian couple and we chatted, which extended my time in the café.  The afternoon was to be a tour to the Sillustani burial chambers, this was really good. The guide was excellent. First we went to a local home to see how they live. Life is based on the production of quinoa and potatoes, and llama and alpaca, which provide meat, milk and wool.

Quinoa

Then up to the burial site, I wasn't sure that I would manage this, I took an easier route up, on my own, but I met the group at the top and came down the steep side.

I was back at the hotel at 6 in time for something to eat and drink and to start packing.

Thursday

Another early morning and a wet walk to the station for a super 10 and a half hour train ride 

from Puno to Cuco with Perurail.

 

Friday

An even earlier morning, 04.00, to be back at the station to get a bus to Ollyantamba and then a train to Machu Picchu.  I was a little worried about finding the way from the train station in Aguas Calientes, the village for Machu Picchu, to the bus, as it was through a rather chaotic market, but I was lucky as someone had hired a guide and I followed them! Machu Picchu was a 15th Century Inca estate, built between 2 mountains, the setting is fantastic. It is a steep climb up lots of steps but I managed it.

Temple of the Sun

Saturday

This was a relaxing day wandering around Cuzco, a lovely city; a UNESCO world heritage site. I think it must also have a large art school as I kept being stopped by young men wit folders full of their art work. A few years ago I would have bought a picture as some of them were very good, but I'm trying to downsize!

I also met up with the Canadians I met on the Uros trip, that was a turn up for the books! 

I was juggling with cash, trying not to end up with loads, especially coins, in the end I opted to go to an up-market restaurant for lunch and to ask for smaller portions! I enjoyed my last 'Pisco Sour'  and paid by card. I left a tip using my excess cash, it was the best service from the waiter that I had had as he waited to see what the tip was!!

Sunday

Another early morning. I had asked reception to order me a taxi for 05.00 but by 10 past nothing had arrived so I just grabbed one, fortunately, being close to the station, there were plenty around. My flights went well. On the flight from Lima to Cancun we were given blankets and pillows, even though it was early afternoon, and most people seemed to sleep most of the way, I wish I could fall asleep like that.

Cancun airport was chaotic, we had to wait ages for our luggage and there was an enormous queue to go through customs, fortunately I had plenty of time.  I had a bit of a problem getting into my apartment in Tulum. I had been told that the night watchman would show me to my room, unfortunately I didn't read all the small print. I had been given a apartment number and a key code, eventually I spotted this and all was well.  Unfortunately the Wi-Fi in my room didn't work! this was really annoying.

Monday

I had to wait for reception to open to complain about my Wi-Fi, but they were unable to do anything except give me the code for the reception area! So I sent a message to the big bosses, those people who delight in sending messages saying how delighted they are that you will be visiting them, but never actually appear. 

The road to the apartment block

The view from my window

Then I went on a little visit of Tulum, I reckon that it is mostly an expensive seaside resort.

 

I wanted to see a 'cenote' but I had no desire to swim and most are very touristy but I found a scruffy one, occupied by tramps!

Tuesday

I woke early and went out early. I wanted to get a 'colectivo' to the Tulum ruins but I couldn't work it out so I got a taxi. I got there early and had to wait for the opening, but the weather was cool and there were things to look at. When I did my research the entrance price was said to be 35 to 40 pesos, there is now an initial entrance fee of 415 pesos + another 100 pesos to enter the archaeological zone! However it was well organised, there were electric buses covering the trip from one entrance to another. The site is beautiful jungle and the sea views spectacular.

Another cenote

I managed to get down to the beach for a paddle in the Caribbean Sea.

Then I headed back, I couldn't quite understand transport but it was only 3 kms so I walked. In Tulum I got myself something to eat and returned to my accommodation.

Wednesday

A bus to Merida. I was kind of glad to leave Tulum, the ruins were amazing, but the rest was just not my scene and the accommodation annoyed me. The three most expensive places I had booked were the ones that promised most and produced the least!

It was a 4 hour bus journey and an hour time change. I had 2 hours to kill till I could check in so I had lunch in the bus station then started walking. The walk took me an hour with my luggage and the temperature was 34 degrees C. Eventually I arrived, and I was greeted warmly. The owners live on site, and somehow, although I have my own studio, the place reminds me of some really nice albergues on the Camino de Santiago.

On the way I had seen a wine shop so, after depositing my luggage I retraced my steps to find food for the evening.

Thursday

What a day! I wanted to wake up at 04.30 but my phone had not accepted the time change between Quintana Roo and Yucutan, so I put my alarm on for 03.30. Unfortunately my phone realised its mistake during the night so it woke me at 03.30!! I survived this and wasted some time over breakfast and getting ready and made my way to the bus station for the 06.30 bus to Chichen Itza. 

Here I had a problem. I had booked my ticket on line and received an attachment which said; 'entrance ticket' so I reckoned that that meant what it said, it didn't. I hadn't read the small print and I should have received something else. The staff were very polite and helpful, but it soon transpired that I had also booked for the following day! I had totally cocked up. I seem to have been in two minds about which day to go. Fortunately my grey hair paid off and they managed to get my ticket changed. 

The Ball Court, the losing team were killed, a good job they don't do that now!

The Cenote

The Castle

I returned to Merida on The Oriente bus, they run hourly and take a more scenic route through local villages.

I got back to my room to find a message from my bank saying that they had paid the hotel in Mexico City, this was fine except that the hotel was insisting that I pay when I arrive. Now I was 'confused'; 'perplexed'; annoyed! The hotel insisted that this was just a pre-authorisation payment, to check that my card details were correct and that they would return this money once I arrived and paid them again. I was livid, I consider this dishonest, especially as I would lose out anyway because of having to pay the bank charges.

Friday

An early morning, but not too early. I had booked the 08.30 bus to Campeche. When I planned this day I thought that I would arrive at a bus station near the historic centre but I arrived at a bus station about 40 minutes walk away and the temperature was 38 degrees C. I managed the walk and visited the 17th Century walled town. It was built by the Spanish to protect them from the marauding English pirates!! There were less walls left than I had anticipated.

I found a super place to have a cool refreshing drink, actually it was a mango sorbet but it melted very quickly! then I walked to the sea front to see the Gulf of Mexico ( before it becomes the Gulf of America).

Then I had a nice meal and headed back for the bus station in the blistering heat.

Saturday

Not necessarily an early morning but why change? My only plan was to visit the historic centre of Merida; to change my 'slush fund' of $US for MXN to pay for my hotel in Mexico City and then to relax. The payment of the hotel was still making me very cross and was ruining my last few days here.

I walked for 30 minutes and saw a very interesting university building, at which point I discovered that I had left my phone behind. I decided that it was too much of a walk to go back, so I would just have to not take photos! The Cathedral and the main square were really impressive, then I started my return journey. I stopped at Starbucks for a coffee, I think I have used Starbucks more in these 3 weeks than in my entire life before. I got back to my room and decided that I really should have taken photos so I returned.

The rest of the day was chill and relax as it was incredibly hot.

Sunday

A good flight to Mexico City. On the way I decided to change hotels. I wanted my last night to be relaxed and I know that I would have got cross with reception at the Camino Real. There small print, which I had now read, insisted that I must give them information on my debit card to cover any charges that might arise, considering that they had taken over £100 off my credit card I did not feel inspired to share any more card information.  It made my last night very expensive but I was relaxed, it also meant that I was able to check in as soon as I arrived instead of having to wait until 15.00.  Once 'checked in' I went to the restaurant for a snack. A 'Club Sandwich', I've had a Club sandwich before, in England, and not been over faced, but this was enormous.

I think the portion of chips would have bee sufficient!

After this I went on a trip on the Metro to visit the historic centre. It was loud and chaotic, photos don't show the bustle and the noise. 

The old post office

Excavations of the old Mayan temple

Monday

A long flight back to a very wet and cold Madrid, and Spain. My last long haul flight!