camino Prtugues continued

Day 3 - Rates to Portela 25kms
The cyclists got up at 7am, they did this fairly quietly but with torches, so we all woke up. I decided to get up too. I left at 7.30 and walked to Pedro Furada, 5kms, for breakfast. Then on to Barcelos, a lovely little town.



Finally on to Portela. A lovely albergue. only 2 years old, when I arrived at 2pm there were 2 German ladies just in front of me, we read the sign saying it opened at 3pm so we sat to wait, at 2.30 a young man appeared and pointed out that the door was open! The Hospitalera cooked soup, Ling had prepared food for 4 of us and a Portuguese chap cooked as well so we had a super communal meal. I came out of it very well, I had bought a bottle of wine and drunk half, when I went for the rest it had dissappeared, they had put it in the meal! So they organised another, better, bottle of wine for me. There are 2 Portuguese men, I haven´t discovered the name of one but the other is called Vasco de Gama!!!
I have a blister on the sole of my right foot but it doesn´t seem to be bothering me much. Tne weather is still warm, too hot to walk much in the afternoon. Lots of lovely people.

Day 4 Sunday, 9th October - Portela to Ponte de Lima 25 kms
We had a peaceful night, I left the windows open behind the blinds and the blinds kept tapping but no-one made any protest! We were woken by the church bells at 7am so we all got up. I had a box of chocolate drink and an apple and was ready to start at 7.45. It was a lovely walk but there were very few places to stop for a drink. At 10.30 I walked past a church and filled my water bottle from a fountain, then a few metres later I found a Bar and had a coffee and a kind of `pain-au-chocolat´. Vasco and his friend were already there, I knew they hadn´t passed me, apparently they had used the road because the friend had blisters!
Ponte de Lima is a lovely town, there was a kind of `flea market´or `car boot sale´by the river.

On Sundays I like to have a proper lunch, and, as the albrgue didn´t open until 5pm,. I found a nice Restaurant, had a lovely meal and sat and people watched. There is obviously a coach load of Brits around, probably SAGA. I may manage to investigate a bit more but I mustn´t hog the computer so I´ll stop this.

camino portugues

Wednesday, 5th October

I arrived in Oporto. I got up at 05.30 to walk to the bus stop, I saw lots of stars, even a shooting star, not sure if I saw the Milky Way, the journey was uneventful and when I got to Oporto I went to the Cathedral to get my `credencial´. It was very informal, they have them there already stamped.
Ling met me at the Cathedral and we walked back to the hostel via the beginnings of the Camino.

Thursday, 6th October - Day 1 - Oporto to Vila do Conde
We got up lateish as we were having breakfast at the hostel then we took the metro to Mercado. We started walking at 9.30. The route was well signed and we had no problems to start with. It was a sunny day with very strong winds. There were plenty of people and kiosks close to Matosinhos but as we walked further away many kiosks were closed and some had signs saying they would close shortly. I planned to stop for coffee at about 11 but it was 11.15 when I found a bar open, this was at Praia do Courgo. I then decided that I would stop for lunch at about 1pm but I was sorely tempted before that as I passed some kiosks selling sardines and they smelt gorgeous. I hoped there would be more further on but I was unucky.
After Praia de Courgo we walked through a small fishing village with bright coloured houses, the beach was piled with lobster pots and the fishermen were mending their nets, the sea was far too rough for fishing.

There were no places for topping up my water supply and I ran out of water, I was very dehydrated when we arrived in Vila do Conde. We went to the Tourist Office first to find out where to stay, then to the Pension, then I went to the Post Office by which time I was past caring if I drank or not. Eventually I found a shop and bought, and drank, 2 bottles of squash. We bought a pineapple as well and then stayed in for the evening.
It was a very noisy night, the Portuguese are like the Spanish they don´t seem to sleep. Ling at Vila do Conde

7th October - Day 2 - Vila do Conde to Rates +/-15 kms
A very short day. We left Vila do Conde along the river but there were roadworks it was not pleasant. There were no arrows to follow at first, I was desparate to get onto the proper Camino. Eventually an elderly lady gave me instructions, I felt very re-assured but I didn´t want to stop until I hit the proper camino. I got to Rates at 11.00 which was a bit early but it was lovely to get my boots off and have a drink. The bar also had internet so we could both access our emails whilst we waited.

We went to the Albergue at 2pm to find a sign saying it opened at 16.00 but the lady in the shop gave me a key, it was strange letting ourseves in and a bit difficult finding the sleeping area, which was up a flight of stone steps, but eventually we got sorted. Then 2 German girls arrived, it was only us 4 until late evening when suddenly loads of people arrived, then about 12.30am there was a mass invasion of cyclists all searching for empty bunks and flashing torches and talking, those of us who were asleep were not amused.

The inner view of the albergue

The sitting area in the Albergue at Rates

1st Andaina Ponte Bibei

Walking the old routes is being very much encouraged locally. This was the Ist oraganized walk of this kind. The info was all in 'gallego' but it read, to me, like a kind of historical walk with the extra of being a celebration of the grape harvest :) The walk was to start at 09.30 but we had to be there at 09.00! The walk is described as having the aim of promoting a knowledge of the natural treasures, both cultural and countryside, of eastern Orense. A walk of 25 kilometres, starting in the direction of Mendoia, passing for the Roman bridge of Cabalar, then following the Roman road 'Via Nova' (via 18 of the Antonine roads, which ran from Braga to Astorga), down to Ponte Bibei, then up to the Bodega of Mata, through the vineyards, on to Sobrado with its medieval church, back onto the Roman road and through the chestnut woods and back to Trives.
I rather got the impression there would be some kind of guide and that we were going to stop at the Bodega, especially as they were advertised as one of the sponsors. 25 kms is a long way, I know that, I also know that Ponte Bibei is down a long way, which obviously meant walking back up a long way! Any way I decided to do it. When I went to enrol another lady was enrolling who looked considerably less fit than me, I anticipated that this walk was going to take a long time!
I got up at 07.30, far earlier than I like but I wanted breakfast and I needed to get to Trives for the start at 09.00. When I got up it was raining, though not heavily, this at least meant that it would, hopefully, not be too hot, but it also meant taking a waterproof. People assembled, some looking like they had no idea of what they had signed up for and some obviously very fit. I heard some people saying that the walk would take 4 hours!!! 25 kilometres in hills in 4 hours, I don't think so. When we started a group shot off at about 6 kms an hour, they certainly weren't planning to wait for stragglers, I still thought we had a guide so I started by trying to keep up, my other motive for being at the front was that, I knew, I would be very slow on the hills and I did not want to get totally left behind.

The roman bridge of Cabalar

The roman bridge of Bibei

I knew it would be hard getting down to Bibei but I had no idea that the Romans built such very steep roads! How they ever got carts up or down them I can't imagine. We descended 400 metres over 3 or 4 kilometres and most of this was in the last 50 metres. There was a refreshment place set up by the bridge but, though everyone took a drink, very few, if any paused for a rest. By this time I had realised that it was every man for himself, it was not a guided tour, we followed arrows. From Bibei we went up to the Bodega, though I saw some people give up at this point and walk back on the road, about 6 kms.

The hill up from Bibei to the Bodega!

From Bibei we took a path that resembled a goat track and went up 250 metres in less than a kilometre. At the top we did not stop at the Bodega, I heard later that the owner was a little put out as he had agreed and had prepared a tasting of both his wine and his cheese, presumably it would have also been a toilet stop. Instead of stopping there there was a table set up round the corner with drinks, fruit and muesli bars. I was surprised to find I had caught up with people I never expected to see again, and also some seemed to walk off around the corner, or come from there, I thought this might be for toilet purposes but I think they were actually going to or coming from the Bodega. I thought the descent was down to Bibei and that once this was over, and we had climbed back up again, it would be relatively flat but this is Galicia!

On the way down from the Bodega, with a view of the hill we had to climb on the other side!

The old Roman terraces, from the bottom!

When we got down to the bottom we had to cross over the road and climb up again, anothe 300 metres almost straight up, then we had anothe refreshment stop in the village of Sobrado.

Sobrado

Essentially we walked 10 kilometres from Trives to the Bodega, 10 from their to Sobrado and then 5 back to Trives, they said the last 5 would be flat but they weren't, they just weren't as hard as the rest. It was an interesting walk and exhausting, most of the women I had seen at the beginning and who looked unfit or ill prepared gave up, some thought it was a walk in the park. It would be good if the council repeats the idea but it needs more careful planning, a route that enables more people to participate and to finish, and a stop at a Bodega!

There was a meal at the end but I hadn't understood that bit of the information and I was far too tired to hang around for everyone to finish, I was not the last, also my brain couldn't cope with chatting in Spanish, I left, went home for a beer a bowl of gazpacho and a rest.

More walking!

I did a longish walk yesterday, this sign is new so obviously people are being encouraged to walk the old roads. I liked the yellow arrow. I say longish, it was only about 12/13 kms but very steep in places, I wish there were some flat routes around here.

The council have organised a historical walk for Sunday, following some of the Roman route and ending at a Bodega! I'm interested but it's 25 kms and a long windey hilly road, I'm not sure I'm in good enough shape, it will also mean getting up early as it starts at 09.00, the weather is getting a bit cooler so I may, I'll sleep on it, you have to enrol in advance so maybe tomorrow I'll go down, I assume there will be some kind of historical explanation, in Gallego, so I doubt I will learn much, someone may be kind enough to translate for me!

preparing for the camino again!

In just over 5 weeks I'll be off again, this time to do the Camino Portugues, so I'm walking in my new boots! Actually I walked a couple of times in canvas shoes, the first time it was OK but Saturday I did a long walk and got a blister on the sole of my foot, so today it was boots but I really don't like wearing boots in warm weather. Actually I don't like walking in warm weather so walking in Spring is better for me, it's much easier to get practice during the winter months. I hope October is not too hot.

Chinglish!

Anyone looking for a job in China may be able to find one translating public signs, that is if you can read Chinese, for all I know these signs may be well translated, I couldn't do any better, but they do raise a smile. There were plenty others similar.

Canton! Guangzhou and Hong Kong - the end!

Thursday, 12th May - Almost not itching!

I arrived in Guangzhou without problem and set off to find my hotel, according to the directions provided by the website I neede to take the Metro to Yuancun, follow the map up the road and turn right near the top. I did this but there was no sight of the hotel, I walked round and round. Everyone I showed the map to pointed somewhere vaguely. It was getting stiflingly hot, I was just getting to the point that I was going to say; 'Stuff it, I'll go straight to Hong Kong', when a young lady asked if she could help me. I didn't think she could and when she told me that I needed to get a bus I was almost sure of it, but she assured me that she knew the road where the hotel was situated, that it was near East Guangzhou Station and that I needed to get a bus.
The hotel description had said it was near the East Station so I was persuaded, I needed to go to that station to get my ticket for Hong Kong. This young lady closed up her shop and walked me to the bus-stop, the bus stop had moved so she asked for further directions and walked me to another one. She wrote the name and address of the hotel in Chinese, so I could ask for directions, and she waited with me till the bus came and asked the bus driver to see I got off at the right stop. Incredibly helpful.

Eventually I did find the hotel, it was near the station, once again there was nothing written outside the hotel in either English or Pingyin. I had to guess, walk in and ask. I thought I had put money away for this hotel but if I did I don't know where I put it, fortunately I had 50$US that I could change at the bank. I was sure that I had enough money to get me through to Hong Kong, though the train ticket had been more than I expected. It might have been better to go to Shenzhen and cross there, still I did get to visit Shamian Island in the afternoon.

Crossing to Shamian Island

Signs of British occupation!

Two of the bronze statues that depict peaceful co-habitation

One of the churches

I went into, what I thought was a museum, it turned out to be an antique shop. Another nice young lady showed me around some of the artefacts. I think she did want to make a sale but she was not pushy.

I started to worry about my journey to Hong Kong, my case seems very big and I was unsure about luggage space on the train. It is far too big for me to lift onto a rack. I was also worrying about where to change my yuan to Hong Kong dollars.

Friday, 13th May
A thunderstorm last night and still pouring with rain in the morning, though not as bad as Xingping. Still very warm as well. I went to the station early and had a coffee in Starbucks, I left the hotel before the Bank opened so I didn't ask about HK dollars, this was just as well as I decided to put my case into 'consign', it weighed 18.9 kilos so no problem with airlines, not with Emirates anyway. By now I had put my back-pack in the case and had only a small bag as hand luggage. Through Chinese immigration and customs, there was a sign-up saying that our temperatures were being taken, God knows how, I could see nothing. It was quite luxurious travelling without my case, well worth the money though the train was not full and there would have been space, several people were travelling with much more luggage than me.


When I arrived in Hong Kong, Hung Hom station (really massive), I checked on why my credit card was not working, the ATM told me it had been cancelled, this was an HSBC ATM, my bank. When I got to the hotel I was stupid enough to tell them that my credit card was not working as they wanted a 500$ deposit, as well as paying for my room. I got cross as I did not want to be drawing money out unnecessarily, only to be handed it back as I was leaving the country. I decided that it had been a bad idea to change my booking to Friday, 13th! Eventually we sorted it out to our mutual satisfaction.


I went to a branch of HSBC to use the internet to find out why I was having problems, in the first one I was told that it was not possible, later I found one where I could use the internet but the system was different, both to home and to Shanghai, so I had to leave it. (When I got home and phoned HSBC they said my card had not been cancelled, so what that was about I don't know, but it did stop me spending money in Hong Kong!!)
My hotel was in Kowloon, just off Nathan Road, very convenient for getting about. my hotel room was so small that I could barely get in with my case, but I had a bed, a shower, a kettle and a TV with English language programmes, what more could I want.
Despite the initial problems with the hotel I liked Hong Kong, it's civilised, the traffic drives on the left, there are double decker buses, drivers respect pedestrian crossings, there are almost no bikes and no spitting, on the other hand it is still Chinese.
I had my clothes washed in a Chinese laundry and I found a chain of cafes that had internet access.

I found the flower market and the bird park.

Nathan Road

Saturday

I got up late, just as well as I wanted to post a couple of postcards and the PO did not open till 09.30, British influence again! Then I went down to Tsim Sha Tsui for the Star Ferry to Wan Chai.

Hong Kong Space Museum, Kowloon

I found a branch of the cafe that has internet access so I stopped for a coffee and checked my emails then went for the tram. I took the first tram that came and went as far east as I could
then returned.
Then I took the Peak Tram up to the Peak, had lunch and walked around the Peak. The weather was poor for visibility.

The weather had looked as if it was clearing but it was very patchy and eventually it just got worse. I got the bus back down to central and the Star Ferry back to Kowloon, I walked along Salisbury Road then through Kowloon Park.

Flamingoes in Kowloon Park

Then I went back through Temple Street market and to the hotel. Unfortunately there was not the same choice of English language programmes on so I went to sleep early!

Sunday Up early, not from choice but because I went to sleep too early! I got up and got the metro to central, then to the Mid Level Escalator, the escalator was coming down, which seemed a bit strange as going up is so much more difficult, still I walked up! I stopped in Soho for breakfast and when I got to the very last escalator it was going up!

When I started to come down I found they were all going up, so I took one back up a bit, just so I could say I'd done it. Then I had to walk down all the way.
Then I walked to Central. One of the incredible thing about HK is that you can walk from place to place on overpasses and Shopping Malls, without actually steeping out onto roads and pavements, what was even more surprising on this occasion, was the number of young females sleeping out in the malls and even the streets, they were in groups and many had laptops with them so they didn't seem needy, I suspect that something was happening at a large Hall that I passed, not sure what, pop group maybe? I passed an Australian girl and we were both astonished by the sight, I confess the weather was warm enough for it not to be a problem. In Central I got a bus to Aberdeen.

I had wanted to see the floating restaurants, with the idea of maybe eating in one, but you had to take a sampan out to the restaurants and as I did not know what they served I didn't feel like taking a sampan out and finding myself stuck. Actually given the enthusiam of some of the sampan owners to get you aboard I don't think getting stuck would have been an option!

I took the bus from Aberdeen back to Kowloon and looked for somewhere to eat, it was surprisingly difficult, I ended up going back to the Shopping Mall, to a cafe, and having a sandwich. There was not much left that I wanted to do, so I went back to the hotel for my luggage and took the bus to the airport. Next stop home! (No, next stop was Bangkok, where we had to stay on the plane, then Dubai, where we got off, then home) My only view of Dubai was when the plane banked, I saw little mud houses and desert, not what you think of when you think of Dubai.