Not Trans Siberia!

Once again my plans have been under review. I found a Mongolian company that did short tours but when I returned to the site in order to make contact I discovered the site had dissappeared. This is too big a journey to risk discovering, at the last moment, that I have booked with an unreliable company, so I have changed my plans yet again. I will not go on to Mongolia this time. It will be much easier to add Mongolia to the Trans Siberian trip when I do it from Moscow, especially as there are frequent trains from Irkutsk to Ulan Bator but very infrequent trains from Beijing to Ulan Bator and those that run are subject to changes in day. I would have had to wait until the very last moment to discover what day I would be travelling to Ulan Bator and, more importantly, how I would get back to Beijing. Now I can be certain (is anything certain?) to be in Beijing for May Day, which is something I have wanted since I first discovered that my itinerary seemed to be panning out that way. I will also be able to have a more relaxed visit to China.

Trans Siberia?

I have put my mind back on my trip next year. I've bought the ticket for Tokyo, London - Milan - Tokyo! Seems an odd way to go but it is cheap. Now I am really committed, the question is; what am I committed to? I have spent ages thinking over the problem of visas, particularly the Russian Visa which is tricky, if I travel east to west this is a major problem. One answer seemed to be to get an agency to buy my ticket from Irkutsk to Moscow, but how would I pick up the ticket, I can't pick up a ticket in Moscow and they can't post it to me as I will already be away, finally I have changed my plans completely. next year will not be the year of the Trans Siberian, I will do that in a couple of years when I also visit Poland and the Ukraine. Next year is now going to be Japan, China and Mongolia. This will give me longer in China and a more relaxed journey. I thought of journeying back via Korea, recent troubles have made that impossible, I just hope that China and America don't enter into a full scale war else my whole plan will go ape. I must get my insurance quickly!

On the camino again

Wednesday 20th October, Samos to Barbadelo 18.5 kms.

The Monastery at Samos

I took Ling to the airport at Santiago and then drove from there to Samos, strange driving through all the Camino towns in 2 hours, knowing that it would take me at least 5 days to walk back! (In the event it took 6!)

Managed to Park at Samos, by the time I had parked, got a stamp on my credencial and got moving it was 12.30.

The route was really pretty and it was lovely walking. I joined onto the other Triacastella route in a very different place to the one I expected, no wonder I couldn't find it when I tried to do it backwards. On my drive there was a lot of fog but it was very warm for my walk. I was sure that there was an albergue/bar just outside Sarria and I promised myself a drink and a sandwich when I got there, but when I arrived there was certainly an albergue but no sign of a bar, so I carried on walking. I decided to continue to Barbadelo, though I was very concerned that the albergue there only has 18 beds and I was running quite late. I thought that I had driven through Barbadelo in the morning and that it is a town so I was sure that there were plenty of shops etc. So on I trotted (stumbled more like). When I got to Barbadelo the Municipal Albergue was full so I went to a private one, at 10€ it was worth it, if only not to have to walk any further. There is no town and the closest shop is 2k away. The `village`is beautiful, with the sun shining it was lovely to sit outside. A bit boring if you get there too early but alright if you arrive later. I had food and the albergue had wine so all was well! The only problem with the Albergue is the washing facilities, one shower room with wash basin and toilet, for 12 people. I reckoned the morning would be interesting.

Thursday, 21st October. Barbadelo to Gonzar 26kms
Last night was a good choice for the first night on the camino, with nothing to do locally and with 2 albergue there was nothing to do but chat. A lot of French at the moment, some Spanish and a variety of Koreans, Australians, Americans and Canadians. I went to bed early because there was nothing else to do. I must get near a shop and buy a Sudoku book!

I was awake early so I got up to use the bathroom facilities, before the rush. By 7.45 I was ready and had nothing else to do so I started walking, very slowly initially, mostly enjoying looking at the stars, then it started to get a bit lighter and I started walking more seriously, soon I was overtaken by a French group with torches so I followed them until daylight. My torch is not powerful enough for walking in the dark, it's sufficient for looking at my watch in the night without disturbing my neighbours. By 8.15 there was enough light so see the signs by. I passed the 100 kms mark then stopped in Ferreiros for a second coffee.


I really didn't see many people whilst I was walking but I know there are still plenty around so I was worried all day about not getting to an Albergue in time. The weather seemed to be warmer and there was not as much frost as previous days but it was very misty, I thought that, once again, I would not see Portomarin but the fog lifted just in time.

The remains of the old bridge.

I discovered, driving through yesterday, that there is absolutely no need to climb the steps into Portamarin, so I just turned left at the bridge and crossed over again.

My feet are very sore, the balls of my feet are the most painful. I was really glad to get to Gonzar. Once again I have misjudged slightly. It is another small village, a bit bigger than last night but no shops, so as I have got here at 2.30 I will be very bored by this evening!


Friday 22nd October, Gonzar to Casanova 23kms
The Albergue got very full last night, mostly French and Spanish. The Spanish were noisy as usual, and late in, and talking on their mobiles, then this morning someones alarm went off at 7, not just a quick buzz but it went from buzz to loud music to louder singing, by which time everyone was awake. There is really no need as it is dark till about 8.15, if not later, so, once again, I started in the dark. I managed to attach myself to a nice French couple with a light and we walked together until I could see. I saw a shooting star this morning, first time ever. The French couple have walked from Le Puy. She said she has lost 3 toe nails, this was not something I wanted to hear as I feared I might be losing one, I now fear I may be losing 2. Not sure why as my boots are plenty big enough, or they seemed to be when I walked last time. I suspect I may not get to Finisterre on foot. I would go home now if I had not left the builder sorting out drainage, I will ring him tomorrow and see how it is doing.

On the whole I am enjoying the walk more, the scenery is very pleasant, I suspect that when I walked this way last time I was too tired to take it in.

I am in another Albergue in the middle of nowhere, fortunately I had the forethought to buy some grapes and some mushrooms in Palas de Rei but I am reduced to drinking water!!

Saturday 23rd October, Casanova to Ribadiso 20kms

There were only10 of us in the Albergue last night and most of us ate in. As I was the only one with a pan I was very popular! An American girl turned up late and hungry, I said that she could eat some of my mushrooms if she wanted, she ate all that were left (a lot) so I will have to rethink today's meal. I slept really well last night. We were all treated to an infusion called 'Relax', whether it was that or because of my earplugs I don't know but I was really surprised to wake up this morning and find people already up! When I looked at the time it was 7.40. We had the hospitaleros trying to chase us out at 8.05. Foggy again this morning. I tried to take a photo of the full moon but the light just reflected off the fog!

I have stopped in Melide for coffee in a bar I stopped in last time, my first Internet access, so most of my writings are done from notes.
Another day of lovely woods, I wonder if they are more noticeable now because it is Autumn!

My feet are killing me, I don't remember them being so painful last time, though I do remember that I couldn't have walked another step when I stopped each day.


In Ribadiso, the weather is changing but the rain has held off today. I hope my socks get to dry.

The toilets, showers etc are all across a courtyard so it must be uncomfortable when it rains at night, but it's lovely in good weather.

Sunday, 24th October Ribadiso to Pedrouzo 22kms

Well, I reckoned it rained during the night but I didn't get up so that was alright. There were lots of comings and goings even someone who appeared too arrive at midnight and was shown to a bunk. I was very annoyed, I had the bed by the door and above me was a Slovakian girl called Susana. When she arrived she took one of the few blankets, I reckoned this was a good idea so I took one too. Later an English woman came over and said to Susana: 'There aren't enough blankets so if you don't need that one, 0h, do you need that one, because I need one.' Susana looked a bit stumped but said graciously that if this woman had a very thin sleeping bag then she could have the blanket and she would put more layers on. I checked later and this woman did have a sleeping bag and she was well away from the door, I'm sure Susana's need was greater than hers. I reckon one should carry what one needs for the camino or take the consequences. I have met very few English on the Camino but, unfortunately the ones I have met have not impressed me. Fortunately there was no frost else we could have been very cold by the door. There was a lot of snoring so eventually I put in my ear plugs and slept very well but some bright spark put on the light at 7, totally unnecessary as we were all out in the dark at 7.30 and as it was cloudy it was well after8.30 before we could see. I had put a new battery in my torch so I could actually see with it but walking is much slower when there is not enough light.

I don't remember walking through all these forests in March. I only remember the road bits I didn't like, I think probably by the time I got to the last week I wasn't paying much attention.

I found a nice Bar in Calzado that I went to last time. It's funny I'm doing different stages and sleeping in different places but I'm using the same between stops. I also turned the wrong way in the same place, last time people in a bar called me back, this time a farmer came out of his milking shed to point me in the right direction. It started drizzling after Calzado then just got wetter and wetter, my feet were on a go slow, everyone was passing me and there seemed to be loads of people, mostly without backpacks! I got to Pedrouzo just after 2pm, the kind hospitalera has given me a bed!! (ie not a bunk) This Albergue sleeps a lot of people, which is just as well as there seem to be lots of people, I suspect some might have wanted to walk further if it hadn't been for the rain. There are horses staying here too! Many of the people from the last 2 nights are here as well, I'm starting to feel like an old hand. It's funny, I've been miserable all day, thinking that it doesn't pay to just do a short camino as you don't build up the network, but shortly after I arrived I met friendly faces, and 4 of us are going to share a washing machine, which is really useful as today's clothes are soaking. I'd bought a bottle of wine and finally got a Sudoku book so I wouldn't get bored, I intended to settle in for the evening. That was the plan but a German lady came to chat to me, you never can tell on the Camino!

Monday, 25th October Pedrouzo to Santiago 19k

People were up early again! I didn't start too early, about 8 and there was a full moon, it was lovely. I walked into a wood, following an arrow and just kept walking, admiring the moon through the trees, until I came out the other side and discovered no arrows, so I had to walk back again to the other edge of the wood to find the right path.

I started walking quite well and really enjoyed the scenery, it's funny I really don't remember so much woodland in April, maybe because there were fewer leaves. The bark is coming off the eucalyptus trees and hanging in the branches giving a quite 'other worldly' feel to some of the woods. There are lots of pretty villages, most of these had Camellias in flower in April, now they have vines with the leaves changing colour.

My walking got slower and slower, I managed to walk past the Albergue as well so I had to walk back again, but eventually I made it into Santiago, having left my backpack at the Albergue. I had to stand in a queue for my Compostela, which was hard on the feet, but there were quite a few people I knew, even after only 6 days and I got one hug! I don't really care about the Compostela but I fancy trying my luck at eating at the Parador and for that I need a Compostela. I eventually got my Compostela, went to the Cathedral and then to Cafe Casino for a glass of wine and then struggled back to the Albergue, I caught a bus from outside the walls, so that helped. i just had time to shower, go to the Bus Station to get bus times for tomorrow and get a bus back to the centre to go to Mass. When I got there the Cathedral was full, there were no seats and I could not stand so I left and sat on a wall outside the Parador.

The meal was great fun. Lovely company. There were only 6 of us though there had been 10, but 2 were turned away because one had a rucksack and 2 did not have their Compostelas only their credencials. Those of us who managed to get in really enjoyed it, then 3 of us went to the Cafe Casino for coffee, Lucy, a 19 year old Australian who has had some amazing travelling experiences, and Doris, a German lady of my age. Then I hobbled back to the albergue.

I have enormous blisters on the soles of both feet, 2 very red, swollen blistered toes, and a very swollen left foot, any further walking is out of the question. So I've decided, this whole walking experience has been so painful I am going to throw away my boots and walk no more.

Tuesday, 26th October to Finisterra by bus!
I went on the bus with the German ladies that I met in Pedrouzo, but they are going to stay the night. These are 2 ladies, in their 70's, who have walked from Ponferrada, with their backpacks! Their respective husbands told them they would never do it!

I made a supreme effort and walked to the lighthouse, it was well worth it, the weather is super and the views beautiful, I also got a stamp for my credencial, it seemed to be a fitting end to my Camino. On the way down a very nice gentleman offerred me a lift and I gratefully accepted, I've done my walking now!

Wednesday, 27th October
I went back to Samos to collect my car. Then in the evening I went back to the Parador for dinner. I got there about 6.15 and I was already the 10th person. Another really interesting group of people, some of them had done the Portuguese Camino, it sounds really nice. There was an American couple, an Austrian man, a Korean mother and daughter, Susana, a French man, a Dutch couple, though she was born in Rhodesia and me. After dinner 6 of us went to the Cafe Casino, the rest fancied gewey cakes as well as coffee. These free meals at the Parador are a wonderful tradition.

Thursday, 28th October
I drove home to see what the damage was at my house, the road is up! I do now have a bathroom that works but there is still a lot to do and they knocked a hole in the water pipes, which for some reason run under the floor, God help me if they ever freeze! So I have no water! I can now walk fairly well so I have decided to walk to Finsterre! I have collected some clean clothes and left behind a few things I won't need to make my bag lighter and back to the Albergue in Santiago. Thank God for the Albergue as well! I got back to Santiago to find a man with the smelliest feet ever has the bed next to mine. I decided not to stay in the room but to sit in the seating area and open my bottle of wine, whilst I was there a Spanish lady went past and said that we should swap wines later, so eventually I joined her and we chatted, she has done the via de la Plata by bike, because she knew she would not manage the longer stages. Whilst we were chatting there was a bit of a commotion and lots of giggling, others had experienced the smelly feet, the lady I was talking to (I don't think we shared names!) went in and suggested to him that he should put his shoes outside, then someone went round with an airspray!!

Friday, 28th October Santiago to Negreira 21.6 kms
Well, did I say I would never walk again, here I am! It poured with rain all day, some of the forest paths were streams but the walking was good. Beautiful forests when I could lift my head to see them. My feet seemd to survive the journey.

This is a small albergue with beds, not bunks, 8 to a room. A mixture of nationalities, English seems to be the predominate language for the women and Spanish for the men. There is no
heating here, this is not a problem from the comfort point of view but drying clothes may be problematic. It wasn't raining when I left the Albergue this morning and for some reason I did not put my wash things and towel inside the plastic bag/liner, this was rather stupid as I now have a very wet towel. After my shower I had to stand in front of the electric hand dryer! Just lucky no one was around!
There's a young Spaniard who has done the Mozarabe from Granada to Seville, then the Via de la plata to Santiago. Santiago to Muxia and Finisterra and is now on the way back to Santiago, there is also a 74 year old German who I saw in Finisterre on Tuesday so he must be walking back as well.
There are also 2 American women who seem to be walking together but cook separate meals, how odd is that?
I haven't decided quite how I will manage tomorrow, I know I can not walk 33 kms so I think I will get a taxi for 10 and walk the rest.

Saturday 30th October
Well my plans changed overnight as I heard the pouring rain even through my earplugs! My waterproof trousers were amongst the items that I left at home so I am not going any further. There are buses from Negreira to Santiago, so I was on the 8.45 bus, some people were still in bed when I left, there was a general air of despondency but it was certainly not worth leaving early to walk.
I got back to Santiago before 10, had breakfast, went to Alcampo to stock up on wine and drove home. My house is now back to normal, all plumbing and drainage seems to be working.
I am happy with the way it has worked out, I fancied walking out of Santiago and I wanted to go to Finisterre, I have acheived both, though not quite as I planned. My blisters are now healed, just my toes are red, swollen and throbbing so I've bandaged them up to avoid further knocks and see how they go over the weekend.

Preparations in Santiago for the Pope's visit next week!

Finishing the camino!

So, I haven't spent this week finishing the camino but I have every intention of continuing on Wednesday. I will go to Samos and continue from there.

Bavaria

Saturday, 2nd October 2010

After a, not very restful, night spent at the airport I arrive at Munich. I had, inadvertently, chosen the last weekend of the Oktoberfest for my visit. Munich station was full of young people, the majority in Bavarian dress, dirndls or lederhosen. I 'did' the Oktoberfest many years ago, when I was young, which is definitely the best time to do it, so I proceed to my destination, Schliersee, which is in the Bavarian Oberland. Before leaving Munich station I did a bit of food shopping, as I was not sure there would be any shops open when I arrived. The apartments take a bit of finding as the map they have provided seemed to suggest taking a back road, unfortunately the building is not named from that side and their are no road signs, I walked 2 to 3 kilometres more than I needed, then two little girls on bicycles kindly escorted me back to the right place. I then find that there is a supermarket open on Saturday afternoon so I shop a little more, then collapse. The apartments can receive BBC, not sure how, but it is lovely to 'chill out' watching English television and recover from my lack of sleep.

Sunday, 3rd October

I investigate the small town and find the lake. The town is typical Bavarian, chalet type houses and lots of flowers.

The lake is beautiful and the weather is excellent. I discover that there are boat trips, initially I plan to do one later in the week, then I realise that during the week it may not be so easy. This being Sunday there are lots of locals out and about, so I join them for a trip around the lake. the trip goes around but stops at strategic points on the way.
I go almost around then I see this beautiful terrace restaurant and decide to investigate. I stopped for a beer and to admire the scenery then back to the apartment for lunch.

Over lunch I read some blurb and discover that there is what is described as a handwork fair in the village at the far end of the lake, so, in the afternoon, I walked to the top of the lake. I wouldn't really describe it as a handwork fair, but as I arrive mid afternoon it could be that I missed a lot. I did see this enormous pumpkin!

Monday, 4th October

Another beautiful day, I have a lazy morning, just a wander around, then lunch by the lake, at the terrace restaurant. Then I get the gondola to the top of the local mountain.

At the top there is a hotel and restaurant, a children's play area with a tiny train. There is an alternative way to descend, by toboggan!

Unfortunately my camera battery is flat so I don't manage to get a photo of anyone coming down that way but there are plenty of takers. I walked down the mountain and meet loads of teenagers walking up, all for the pleasure of coming down by toboggan. I also see some older people, I almost think that I might have succumbed if I had been with someone to encourage me!

I took this photo a few days later.

Tuesday, 5th October

A visit to Munich. I have to start by buying a ticket from the automatic ticket machine! This has a touch screen and the screen saver was on view when I started so I touched the screen in the wrong place. I was surprised that my return ticket to Munich was only costing 7.6 euros, when the single had cost over 10, but I bought the ticket. Fortunately I realised that I had, in fact, bought a ticket for Bayrischzell, further up the valley, rather than for Munich, before I cancelled it, but this then gave me my plan for the next day!

In Munich I start by going to the booking office at the station to book a train for Ulm on Thursday and to organise my train to Zurich on Saturday. There is a special queue for English speaking tourists and I opted for this. I really should have been practicing my German but my plans fro Saturday were complicated. It was a charming young man at the desk, who was very helpful. Unfortunately I then arrive in the Marienplatz just as the Carillon finishes.

The last time I was in Munich I ate in the Rathouse Keller, the restaurant under the Town Hall. I remember it as being a large vaulted chamber, with men eating on their own at almost every table! I decided to have lunch there but I discover, that like almost anything, it has changed a lot, still I enjoy my meal. Over lunch I study the map and after lunch I head for the Market. The fruit and veg are truly impressively presented.

It is raining on and off. Not too severely to make wondering around uncomfortable but enough to make long pauses unpleasant.

Munich is a beautiful city, I just have one unanswered question. When I was last there I went into a very impressive baroque church. There were photos inside that showed what the church looked like after the war and it had been totally re-built. I was quite disappointed. I think the new build at Coventry is a much better idea. I had thought this church was in the Marienplatz but it isn't, so where is it?

Wednesday, 6th October

The train ride to Bayrishczell.

The town is very pretty.







I decided that I should have a walk and found a foot path. in fact there were loads if I had had the right information. I found loads when I came back down, but most were long and I was not inclined so I walked to to a waterfall. The walking was difficult as it had rained heavily during the night and it was damp and slippery underfoot and I didn't have a stick. It was also humid. On the way I saw this sign!!

Beware black cats! I thought black cats were lucky!

The view across the valley.








Thursday, 7th October

Visit to Ulm. Thanks to the helpful young man at the train station I had a days travel card, as this was very cheap I bought a First Class one, it felt very strange as I don't usually travel First Class.

Ulm is really beautiful. The cathedral has the world's tallest spire. I had timed my visit to arrive for the midday organ concert but there wasn't one! So I hired an audio guide from the tourist information office and wondered around. There is lots that is worth seeing but the Fishermen's quarter and the Crooked house are truly impressive.

I think it is the first time I have seen the River Danube, one day I want to cruise the Danube from Vienna to the Black Sea but I'll leave that till I'm very old!

Friday, 8th October

My last day. The weather is really strange. The weather forecast says sun, but instead it is anti cyclonic gloom, but the gloom is very low flying cloud. Occasionally there are clear moments then mist and fog comes in again.

I opted for a walk all around the lake. I had seen from the train that the path at the Schliersee end of the lake might be difficult to find so I decided to go that way but once again my logical plan never materialised. I walked the other way!

The walk was supposed to be 7kms and the changing weather conditions made it specially interesting.

Unfortunately the Schliersee end was quite as difficult as I had expected and I forgot to take my map with me. The signs kept pointing in different directions and then petering out and pointing back the way I'd just come. At one point it became very misty and quite disorientating. I knew that I could always walk back around the lake again so it was not really worrying but annoying. It was easy to see how dangerous it can be in the mountains in such circumstances.

In the end I found a man sitting on a bench and he pointed me in the right direction. I certainly walked a lot further than the 7k but it was all flat so nice and easy. When I got back and looked at the map I discovered that I had been very close to where I wanted to be.

Saturday, 9th October

The journey home.

There is no flight from Santiago to Munich but there is to Zurich. I got round this on the way out by booking a flight to Stansted and the from Stansted to Munich. I've since discovered that I'm probably always best to look at flights via Madrid. However I liked the idea of travelling via Zurich, especially when I discovered that the train journey from Munich to Zurich can include a boat trip across Lake Constance, so this is what I had decided to do.

The boat goes from Freidrichshafen to Romanshorn.

Unfortunately it was another cloudy day so I didn't see any mountains in Switzerland.

Zurich airport is an experience, beats Santiago or Stansted hands down! A series of very upmarket shopping areas, very big, no queues. You don't go through security until just before the departure gates so there are dozens of security zones around the airport, though it does seem odd to have duty free shops before security as there is no point in buying alcohol of any description.

The strangest thing of all is that I did not go through passport control at all on my way home! Not between Germany and Switzerland, not at Zurich Airport and not even when I arrived at Santiago.

away again (on the way)

Wednesday, 29th September


Off to Germany for a week, via London! When I bought my ticket for today I knew there was going to be a general strike in Spain but I thought: 'That won't affect planes!!!' Then I remembered Air traffic Controllers! So I've been worrying about this flight for a while. Ryanair forgot about ATC as well and only thought about baggage handlers! Initially they said hand luggage only on all flights, this wasn't a problem as I only intended to take hand luggage. Suddenly the evening before they announced that most flights would be cancelled. They had a whole page of cancellations!!! I went through the list and my flight wasn't there! I went through the list again and again but no sign of my flight. I even got up early in the morning to check again but no sign of my flight being cancelled, I really couldn't believe this but I went to the airport and it showed my flight as coming in early! It didn't of course, ATC made it fly around for half an hour. Only 2 flights from Santiago showed as not being cancelled and one was mine, I really could not believe that I should be so lucky but I was and I got to London on time.



I made my way to Alton without problems, there I started by going to Sainsbury's, where I went totally mad, buying things like Christmas pud and custard powder! (My case was full of fruit and veg rather than clothes, it's now full again and I still have no clothes) After Sainsbury's I got lost and walked around in the rain for more than half an hour but eventually I found the house and could dry off and relax.



Thursday, 30th September

Back to London to get the train to Sheffield. I had to cross London from Waterloo to St Pancras. I had studied the Underground map and decided on my route. More particularly I decided not to take the Jubilee line as it is such a long walk. So what do I do, I go straight to the Jubilee line, 10 minutes later I get to the tube station! At Green Park I get off and there I heard an announcement saying that due to a suspected emergency all passengers must leave the station immediately! So there I was at Green Park with about 30 minutes to get to St Pancras, not good. I started walking to Picadilly Circus but realised that this was not necessarily a good idea so I got a taxi. I haven't been to St Pancras since it became the International Station, when I got back and saw it from the other angle I could see that it is very well done but arriving via the International entrance and with only a few minutes to spare it was very confusing, but I made it. I had a lovely day in Sheffield and had lunch with Jason. I was able to get rid of a bag of fruit and veg! A good opportunity to share the produce of my land with my sons, or one of them anyway!
The journey back to Alton was uneventful and I managed not to get lost this time.

Friday 1st October
Back to London again, this time with all my luggage, I looked for left luggage but 'left luggage' at Waterloo costs £8 so I gave up on that idea and carted my case around with me. It was pouring with rain and very windy! I had a lovely lunch with Aidan and then we did the tourist thing and walked to Trafalgar Square, down the Mall, across Green Park and back down Picadilly. I took Aidan into Fortnum and Mason! It has changed a bit from how I remember it, not quite so impressive I think.
I know we often went to London when the boys were young but it seems to be a long time since Aidan went, and this was his first time as an adult.
When we parted I went to the Festival Hall for a concert ( Faure, Saint-Saens and Stravinsky) . It's the second time this year that I have been to a concert simply because it was the only thing on when I was in London, in July I went to a Prom and heard Shostakovitch, to my surprise I really enjoyed both concerts, I'm widening my horizons in my old age!
After the concert it was off to Stansted to spend the night. I bought a small bottle of wine and some 'sushi' in Waterloo on my way through, and had a late supper! Then I made the mistake of trying to sleep in the departure area at the airport, I hadn't realised how busy it is during the night! Next time I'll stay in arrivals!!! When I arrived I planned to change my clothes but found that the clothes in my case were as qwet as the ones I was wearing, I must have pulled my case through every puddle in London.

Sunday walks

I'm going to have to rethink my Sunday walks. Despite years of nursing and working Sundays I still have a belief, the result of my catholic upbringing, that weekends are weekends and that Sunday is a day of rest. During the week I work during the morning, (at the moment this is digging one of my plots of land!), the weekends I like to walk but Sunday is becoming impossible. The woods are invaded by hunters and now, if I stick to the road, I am being attacked by dogs. For the last couple of weeks two of the dogs, in a neighbouring village, have taken a fancy to me, they jump around me and fight each other for my attention. That doesn't worry me too much as I don't think they wish me any harm, though it is a little disconcerting! Today I was 'attacked' by four, two were the 'friendly' dogs but two were distinctly unfriendly, one even nipped the back of my leg. I wished I'd had a stick!
It's definately limiting my Sunday walks, I think there is now only one possible route I can take. I may yet be reduced to working outside on a Sunday!

Funny things!

Today I have answered a question that confused me greatly last autumn. The strange 'walkway' that wasn't, that Carmen said was a canal! As seen above.

Last week, from a distance, I saw a stretch that didn't have a cover and could see that it had water in it! Today I got closer, this is a covered canal with very fast flowing water, all that remains now is to find out why?

preparing for the camino again!

I've put my walking boots on again this weekend. After a summer of only wearing sandals it is quite strange, my boots are pretty warn out too but it isn't the right moment to buy new ones. I'm going to be hard put to get much practice in this time. Only walking a week is probably as hard as setting off for the whole camino as you just don't get time to be adjusted. The weather is still very hot during the day so I walked in the early morning mist today.

It's also difficult to know where to walk on Sundays. I wasn't sure if the hunting season had started yet so I decided to avoid the woods today and stick to the road, then I forgot why I had chosen that particular route and decided to extend the walk by coming back through the wood! There I was walking up a road, just coming out of the mist and there was a man with a gun! It's a good job I'm not really a nervous type. I thought that would mean it really was safe to walk back through the wood, but no! Coming back I met two men with guns, there's really no winning. I met a fox this morning as well, that's a first. I don't think they are hunting foxes but I suspect some of the dogs aren't too fussy!

A month today I should be walking from Ribadiso to Pedrouzo!

Saturday, 18th September

Another long walk today, I survived it well though I'm back to finding hills difficult. I'm tossing up whether to be firm with myself tomorrow and do a very hilly walk or take an easier option. I know that Santiago to Finisterra is hilly so maybe I should be firm!!

I saw an animal yesterday!! it was black and looked like it belonged to the stoat/weasel family, I'm wondering was it a polecat or a mink? Will I ever know?

Sunday, 19th September

I was lazy this morning and decided not to take the longer walk that would have entailed a 400metre descent, before returning by almost the same path. I much prefer to do a circular route to a there and back but the path I used to take back last autumn has become so wet and muddy that even over the summer it hasn't dried out.

The photo below shows my village from the hills I was walking on yesterday, walking on the flat isn't really an option here!

My main problem today was where to walk, the path I intended to take became instantly impossible when I heard, just as I was leaving the village, the sound of the hunt dogs, coming from the direction I had intended to walk in. A meeting with men with guns assured me that that was the direction they were intending to hunt in so I had to rapidly rethink my walk. This also reduced the length of my walk but at least I have walked.

still roamin

It's been a while since I've written anything so it looks like I have 'dun roamin' but, not true, or not completely.
I was in England for 10 days at the end of July but I don't think that counts, at the moment I am preparing my next few excursions. Yesterday I went to Sarria to get a new credencial for the Camino. I have inspired a friend who is about to start next Monday, in October I will meet up with her to do the last few days to Santiago and then on to Muxia and Finisterra whilst I was in Sarria i decided to walk to Samos and back, I didn't do that path when i walked in March and I wanted to see what it is like and visit the Monastery. I chose the first day it has rained in months, and how it rained! it is also very difficult to follow the camino backwards, the signs aren't in the right places! Anyway I reckoned I was OK for quite a while but then I came to a fork, I opted for one which seemed likely to be right but it was up a very exposed hill, I got thoroughly soaked and as I saw no signs for quite a while, and no pilgrims coming the other way I decided to turn round and try the other one. It must have been the right route because the other one wasn't so I gave up, went back to my car and ate my picnic. I didn't think thunderstorms last very long but that one did and when I drove back through Monforte the skies just opened even more, real stair rods.
When I got home and had a proper look at the map I discovered I was on the wrong path entirely, i was on the same path I took in march, which just shows how much I remember! If I had continued I wouldn't have got to Samos but to Triacastela, so just as well I turned round.
My next trip is not very exciting but it should be pleasant, I am going to Bavaria for a week at the beginning of October, then as soon as I get back it will be the Camino again.

My major plan is for April next year, I plan a trip to Japan, China and then the Trans Siberian railway to Moscow and St Petersburg. I am really enjoying planning that

Post Camino reflections

I've been back nearly 2 weeks now. People ask me questions about how it was, expecting me to have had some sort of religious or spiritual revelations! I didn't.

For me the main feeling is one of pride, pride that I did it, that I finished and that I carried my own bag all the way. I think that I was an inspiration to several. I was not the oldest on the Camino at that time but I was certainly heading that way. One young German lady asked me how old I was because she wanted to know how much more activity she could look forward to! I was a bit taken aback but I think the fact that I walked fast, at least some of the time, inspired. The pleasure and surprise, that quite a few younger people expressed when they saw me, had nothing to do with my amazing personality but more to do with the fact that I had made it!

I have acquired confidence to carry on with my travel plans, if I can walk the Camino de Santiago (and sleep in Albergue every night) I can do anything.

I have no intention of doing the Camino again but I did lose 12 kilos so if I find myself putting on weight I may have to go back. Not as a pilgrimage but as a long walk, walking is such a good way of seeing a country.

Camino de Santiago week 5

Week 5

Monday 5th April 152kms to go
Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro (1,296m high) 29.73 kms

I got up early (just before 7!) as I had decided to do the long day and try to get to O Cebreiro. Not only a long walk but the second, and last, of the steep hills. There'd been a frost overnight and the temperature was 0ºC when I left Villafranca but the sky was clear, it was just a matter of waiting for the sun to rise above the surrounding hills. A lovely walk even though the first 17kms were mostly by the side of the road.


I had one major moment of anxiety when I found myself at a major road junction, with lorries, hotels and carparks, and no sign of the Camino. I thought I had gone wrong but I managed to find the right way. The climb to O Cebreiro was hard work, though the worst was before A Faba, I hadn't realised that as my original plan had been to stay overnight at A Faba to prepare for the next days climb, so I was glad I had changed my mind.



The weather was lovely and warm and sunny, I ended up in a T-shirt for the first time. Infinitely better than last weeks snow.








Into Galicia! Only a few remnants of snow left.

Here in Galicia there are distance markers every 0.5 kms which helps the count down!

On the way up I was thinking I would have a cold foot bath again, if I could find a bowl, I couldn't, so I stood outside in the snow in bare feet.

O Cebreiro seems to be very much a tourist town. The Albergue is good, though the dormitory is enormous and the kitchen is very poorly equipped with crocks and cutlery, there are no knives, and no cork screw! I had 2 knives when I started but in one of my attempts to reduce weight I parted with both of them. Never mind, I didn't need a knife for pasta and the cork went inside the bottle!

A lot of people turned up late and were greeting long lost friends in the dormitory, the evening was very noisy, then at 9.30 a bus load of teenagers appeared, they continued to chatter loudly until a guy got up and turned out the light at about 10.30, after that they whispered for a while. Then the guy above me started to snore loudly, then the guy next to me was shouting at him, it was all too much after such a long and difficult walk. Eventually I got up for my earplugs. Given that there were 50 people in the room I should have thought to use earplugs earlier but the room was half empty when I went to bed!

Tuesday 6th April

O Cebreiro to Triacastela 21.69 kms

I was going to be horrible and get up early, making a noise, just to spite those who'd disturbed me the night before but I woke up at 7. Just as I was going to get up an alarm went off, waking everyone. I got up quickly and as I was close to the door I was first in the bathroom!

I was out by 7.30 and the morning was spectacular. Well worth the bad night!



Sunrise at the top of the mountain! Spectacular views. The first part of the walk there was still a lot of snow lieing and it was chilly, but not for long. It was a beautiful day, with stunning scenery for most of the day.

My leg has been very painful - a lot of hard work these two days, but it improved by the afternoon, I had hoped to walk on a bit further but I was too tired.

I went to the Albergue privado, in the hope of not meeting all the kids. It was 9€ and comfortable with only 8 in the room, this should have been good but there were 5 Finns who spent the evening occupying most of the floor space, discussing their plans. I managed to fall asleep about 9.15 despite the light and the talking!

Wednesday, 7th April

Triacastela to Ferreiros 37.92 kms

The Finns had an alarm at 6.15! they were 4 females and a male and obviously belong to some culture where men still rule! The alarm was Mr.'s and he got up, the rest slowly followed. One Finn was still asleep but the rest were moving about. Mr and Mrs, after lots of rustling, had gone to make breakfast, then one of the others asked me if they really had to be out by 8!! I wish sometimes that I had it in me to be rude - because up at 6.15!!

Anyway, another beautiful day. I spent the first few kms wondering why I am doing this and contemplating getting a bus from Sarria but, as the sun came up and breakfast hit home, I brightened.

Loads of primroses and violets in the hedgerows, frequently a cuckoo in the valley. The 4th good day weatherwise, it's beautiful. I decided to go for it today. My leg felt better and I wanted to get to under the 100kms mark, so I'm in Ferreiro - 98.5 kms to go.

I saw Annie in Sarria, that was nice because most of the original group have disappeared. She says I've lost weight, not surprising really. I'm now planning to do 3 long days and get to Monte de Gozo on Saturday. I hope I manage because my leg hurts again tonight, but it is better because I had to walk up loads of stepping stones this afternoon and I couldn't have done that last week.

This Albergue is in the middle of nowhere, with a field of chestnuts in front. Super.

It's only small, sleeps 22 and another place where the bunks are very close. There are 5 young student priests here, the one next to me is already a monk and there's about an inch between our beds! The first time I've almost slept with an almost priest!!


Thursday 8th April

Ferreiros to Palas de Rei 34.39 kms
OK - not quite super, the Albergue was full and, as usual, the Spanish ate late and came to bed late and the young ones were giggling even later. Then the snoring started, my ear-plugs were fairly effective, but it is chilly as well and there were no blankets. In the end I put my woolly jumper inside my sleeping bag and that helped. At 3.15 an alarm went off, a mistake I assume, but as the owner got up to pee maybe it wasn't!

At 6.15 more alarms, more people up. One of my concerns before I started was that I wouldn't wake up in the mornings, I needn't have worried. In the end I got up at 6.50 and took my breakfast through to the dining area. I left at 7.20. I never thought I would see so many dawns consecutively! Another lovely morning. The first 8 kms were lovely but below were clouds and fog, where Portomarin should have been. Eventually into Portomarin, it was just about possible to make out water under the bridge. So, in over a bridge, up a load of steps, stop for a cup of coffee then down a road, double back down a lower road and back over a bridge, which appeared to be next to the one we started on. It did make us wonder why, and we saw nothing of Portomarin.

Later, as the fog was lifting I saw a white rainbow!! Sounds strange but the mist formed just an arc over the road, but even in the sunlight it didn't break down into the colours of the rainbow. Very strange.

Up into the sunshine and then loads of people. The Camino was full of 'pilgrims' without backpacks. Busloads, doing Sarria to Santiago on foot whilst their luggage went ahead. I first became aware of them when one silly man rang the church bells of a small village, an irate villager was apparently very rude to him. I could understand why. It makes sense to me that, in small country villages, ringing the church bell is a means of announcing a problem/disaster etc. I checked with a Spaniard later and he said the same thing, church bells are not to be played with.

The 'tourist-pilgrims' continued to be a pain for the rest of the morning but eventually they stopped for lunch. But they are filling up the Albergues, which makes it difficult for those of us who walk more slowly because of our back-packs.

Walking has been lovely again. I saw some small white flowers today, at first I thought they were some kind of orchid but they are very small narcissi. The lovely weather and scenery has helped me to walk the extra kilometres because I'm determined to finish on Sunday morning.

Palas de Rei, in the old Albergue in the centre of town, better situation than the new one, which is on the edge of town, however the new one is full of touri-pilgrims. The only problem here is that, although the Albergue is advertised as having a kitchen there is no crockery or cutlery. Fortunately for me some Spaniards had left stuff drying in the kitchen and we thought it was communal so used it! The kitchens in Galicia are very bad, those in Castilla y Leon were much better.

Friday 9th April

Palas de Rei to Arzua 29.52 +

Hard work today. My legs and feet are very tired with all these long days, but only one more left. Another beautiful day. It becomes difficult to walk in the afternoon when it is warm and there is a danger of not getting a bed. It must be really difficult in summer. It's also become obvious that the distance markers are up the creak! They have been there a long time and new roads mean that the Camino is often diverted, so it's yet another set of measurements, but I still like to see them and to see the distance reducing.

I've seen a few more old faces today, people I've passed at one time or another. There's an elderly American guy who was very sprightly (ex-army) but he got the tummy bug in Manzarife, he looks very tired now.

I got lost coming out of Palas this morning and added another kilometre or 2 to my day, that'll teach me to concentrate, maybe!

Tomorrow to Monte de Gozo, by hook or by crook. I've booked my hotel for Sunday night!

Saturday 10th April day 32

Arzua to Monte de Gozo 34.52 kms

Another dawn! Hopefully my last!

Another beautifully warm day. Good walking for the first half, no hoards, the other day was like an infestation. Today I saw very few walkers, though quite a few cyclists, and the walkers I saw were all people I had seen before.

I passed 2 men bravely carrying 2 back-packs. The first coupe were young Spanish, they live in Santiago and had only been walking a few days. They were trying to get all the way to Santiago, I think he was only carrying 2 to encourage her to walk so that they could get home to their own bed. The 2nd couple were Koreans, sad, because they have walked all the way and she really did look like she was suffering. Carrying 2 backpacks really must be a measure of love.

Monte de Gozo is Mountain of Joy, one is supposed to be able to see the towers of the Cathedral from here. There's a heat mist and I can't see them. My only joy was actually getting here. The last 15-16kms were hell. Starting with walking under an incoming jet; just feet above the perimeter fence of the airport that I was walking past; the fact that all the distance markers were removed and the signs were few and far between and the last 9kms were by, or on, a road, in the sun. I don't know how anyone does this in summer, the temperature is only in the 20's at the moment. The only thing that kept me going was the thought of finishing!

The Albergue here reminds me of some 1960's English University Campus, concrete and bleak with just a few trees scattered around, not quite as dire as Brunel but getting there. The only advantage is that the rooms are small (8), generally uni sex and I won't have to share it with some pre-adolescent spaniards (pre-adolescent in humour, not age). I suspect they underestimate my knowledge of Spanish and certainly my understanding of Catalan.

The other disadvantage for me is that, although there is a cash machine it doesn't want to recognize my cards. Please God I have more luck in Santiago else I will be in trouble. I should have taken money out in Arzua but I didn't think. Never mind, I spent a lovely early evening sitting outside and spent the last of my money on another glass of wine!!

Sunday 11th April Day 33

Monte de Gozo to Santiago 5kms

I hadn't wanted to see another dawn but I was warned that with all the busloads turning up for their 'Compostelos' there would be queues at the office and it would be better to get there early, so another dawn.

The picture looks predawn but if I'd waited another few minutes the sun would have come up! this is the Pilgrims Monument with the moon behind it!

Quite a nice walk into Santiago. I managed to get some money from a bank cash machine! Then just as I was arriving I met Ellen and her Mum going down to the bus station. I was so pleased to see them.

I got to Santiago early enough to go into the Cathedral through the Holy Year Door, and with my back-pack! Both not allowed now because of the crowds. It does seem appropriate when you've done a Pilgrimage of however many kms., to finish it by going into the Cathdral first, before getting signed off at the Pilgrim Office.

Here I am back-pack and all!

Then it was breakfast in my favourite cafe, Cafe Casino, a very old fashioned relaxed place - Art Nouveau I think, established 1873 and probably not changed much, then to my hotel to get rid of that back-pack and stick. Later to the Pilgrim Mass, where the Botafumeiro was flying high! Photos below aren't brilliant but you can make it a very large incense burner swinging around.

I was all excited about having a nice hotel room to myself, with my own bathroom when I realised that my room was right by the Cathedral and the clock strikes the quarter hours!

Monday, 12th April

Home today!

Last night was OK. I watched 'Silent Witness' on the TV in English, didn't feel tired at all. The clock was not a problem. I'm more bothered about my asthma at the moment, I haven't been able to increase my dosage of Beclamthasone as I stupidly only brought one inhaler with me, so I've been taking loads of Ventolin, most unusal for me, but then I don't usually take excessive excercise! I'm coughing a lot which is a pain.

Off to the station to buy my train ticket, €4.75, a gift really. Then I went on a spending spree, not really a good idea, but I had carried a blouse with me to wear in Santiago and when I got here I discovered it was wet and stank of damp. In Orbigo the radiator leaked and my bag got very wet at the bottom. The blouse was in a plastic bag so I didn't worry about it, if I'd checked I'd have washed it at some point. Anyway I bought a new blouse and top, then some new ear-rings and then walked straight into Vicenta and Annie, 3 of us from the original group! It was lovely to meet up with them. Annie thought that Amy was in Santiago as well but no-one has seen her, that's a shame.

The first pages of my 'credencial' and my 'Compostela'.