Week 4 caminos Catalan and Aragones

Week 4 Day 22 Sarsamacuello to Ena 25.8kms

The morning was cool but sunny, though there were threatening rain clouds over the mountains to my right. The wind was easier but still quite blowy.

The view back over Sarsamacuello

The sign for a Via Pecuario or drovers way

The profile I had seen said mostly downhill but this was far from true. There is a castle of Marcuello, very much in ruins, about 4.5 kms from Sarsamacuello but also about 300 metres higher, so my day started with a steep climb into the mountains. The info displayed near the castle said that we were above 1000 metres. This was really re-assuring as the climb had not caused me any major problems and San Juan de la Peña is only 1125 metres.

 

 

The route today was beautiful there was a down which was steep and nasty but fortunately the paths are mostly dry. 

 

  

This just looks like a path but you should have seen the drop on either side!

The view coming out on the other side.

I think this is a bee orchid!

The station at Sta Maria de la Peña

It was in the mountains until Sta Maria de la Peña, after that it was mostly flat for a while and a route along the roadway. Then I had one of those 'You can't be serious' moments. I looked at the path, what path? and said; 'No way' but I had to.

 

 

After a couple of hundred metres it suddenly broke into beautiful countryside, a really narrow path, through countryside, with a stream on one side and lots of pretty flowers, and I heard my first cuckoo. There were patches of mud, the area was enclosed to protect cattle but there was none to be seen, but lots of evidence of horses. It seems the animals here are all phantom. The walk took a long time and there was nowhere to sit and rest.

 

 I had read that it could be necessary to paddle as the rate of flow of the streams is regulated by a reservoir higher up. I did. 3 times I had to take off my boots and paddle through freezing cold, fast flowing water.

 



Trying to put socks on wet feet whilst standing up is an interesting experience! There were also moments when my brain said; 'You can't get across that' and my feet agreed but I had to persuade them there was no alternative and go for it. 

All in all today's walk was brilliant. The scenery is wonderful, one of the best days so far.

Ena is a lovely little town with fancy chimneys, designed so that the snow doesn't enter.

The albergue is really well equipped and new, much better than I expected.

 

Day 23 Ena to Sta Cilia de Jaca 22.2

The day started sunny and soon got warm. The first stage was Ena to Botayo, I thought this would be relatively easy. At about 3 kms I had to paddle again, this was fairly deep and at 8.30 in the morning, very cold.

 

 I looked at my info, it said that at 4 kms 'after various crossings of the stream' I would arrive at something. I wish they had quantified various! I reckoned that if I had to paddle various times over about 1 km I would keep my crocs on it was to much like hard work changing my footwear all the time. I had to paddle and wade 5 times, my feet were very, very cold by the time I had finished. When I was sure that I was moving away from the sound of running water I found a rock, sat down, put my boots on and had a rest. the rest of the walk to Botayo was not too bad, then there was the serious climb to the monastery. It was only 2.5 kms but very steep.

 

There were lots of pretty spring flowers including the anemones I like so much.

 

The top was the New Monastery, then there was a steep down to the Old Monastery. A lot of it was earth path which would have been very unpleasant if it had been wet.

These were caterpillars making the journey across the road!

I felt euphoric when I got to the old monastery, I'd done it. I completely forgot that there has to be a coming down as well! The path down was also very steep but there were some breath-taking views of the Pyrenees, good reasons for stopping to take in the view!!

 

  It was getting well into the afternoon and it was very hot.

At Sta Cruz de la Seros I was going to have a cup of coffee but it was so late I stopped and ate half the 'bocadillo' (large sandwich) I was carrying. I was also in trouble I had forgotten to get money in Huesca and there had been no opportunity since so I was almost broke. I decided to continue to Sta Cilia and then have a beer. It was a very long walk even though it was only 22kms.

The sign were the caminos joined.

 I was exhausted when I arrived and I found the bar closed.. There is no kitchen at Sta Cilia so I had the rest of my bocadillo, some chocolate and tap water! I was on my own!

I have finished the Catalan Camino and really enjoyed it. I feel I have achieved something big for me. I would heartily recommend it to anyone. From Montserrat it is well signed and there is a good infrastructure, up to Montserrat it is less well signed and no albergues as such but the first part was super.

It needs to be done when the paths are dry, some of the ups and downs would be lethal when wet. And remember to bring rubber shoes!!

Day 24 Sta Cilia to Jaca 15 kms

I have walked the camino backwards today. I met 4 pilgrims going the other way. I found it hard work walking today, maybe after the exertions of the last couple of days, but possibly because I needed some food and a coffee. The weather is also very hot, T-shirts by 10a.m. and warm until sun down. The hospitalera told me the bar opened early, but it wasn't open at 7.30.

I've now got some money, I've had access to computers.

 

 I've visited the Cathedral, which was closed for renovation last time I was here, and there are 5 pilgrims here. There is an Italian couple who have invited us to a communal meal tonight, so things are looking up :)

Camino Catalan week 3

Day 15 Algerri to Tamarite de Litera 20 kms

Algerri

I woke at 6, hopefully this is the last time. The sky was grey but it was not raining. The countryside was the same as yesterday, wheat and fruit trees, but  most of the blossom is just coming to an end. The Serra Llarga continues, it looks like the back of a sleeping dragon, a very long dragon.
 
In Alfarras I stopped for a coffee then  I continued into Aragon.

The countryside became more undulating but the dragon continues.
There are new signs here.
  
Tamarite is the first place I have seen where the albergue is advertised but the first where I have had difficulty getting in. The key is supposed to be with the local police and I have a mobile number for weekends but no one is answering the phone. In the end I asked the Guardia Civil and was told to go to the bar next to the Town Hall. I had done a shop as soone as I arrived as it is Saturday and the albergue is donativo. I needed change as I only had a €50 note, this meant that I had been wondering around with a bag of food, complete with a bottle of wine:-) I was very glad when I eventually got into the albergue.

Day 16 Tamarite de Litera to Monzon 21.6 kms
It was the night the clocks spring forward. I changed the time on my watch and then tried not to go to sleep too early. I had  decided to wear ear plugs, not because I expected noise but because whenever I wear them I seem to wake up at 8 thinking, 'where is everybody?'
I woke at 4am feeling cold, not desperately cold but my legs were aching, I managed to reach a cover off a neighboring bed.  I had a blanket on but it kept slipping off but this new one was a heavy counterpane and stayed put.  I got comfy and went back to sleep. When I woke again it was daylight, I looked at my watch, 6.55, I was really warm and comfy, I could have cuddled down for another hour but I had set myself a 40km day so I needed to get started. On the way to the bathroom I realized it was really light, light enough to walk, that couldn't be right. I looked at my watch again, 8a.m.! I rushed back to look at my phone, it was right. I had overslept! This seemed to have put an end to my walking to Berbegal,  the next albergue.
I got ready and left at 8.30, to find that the car park was full of cars and cyclists, there was s sponsored cycle race. They must have been arriving for ages and I hadn't heard them. It just shows how effective ear plugs are!
The route still followed the dragon.

I still hadn't quite made up my mind how far I would walk. There were no villages and nowhere to stop until Monzon, but I  was feeling much better after a good nights sleep.
The day started really cloudy and after a few hours it started to rain.  Not heavy rain but the soft stuff that wets you! I decided to pass on walking further so I have stopped in Monzon. Hopefully this is the last hotel, from now on there are albergues.




Day17  Monzon to Berbegal 20.6 kms


One of those 'You must be joking moments'

I woke up at 7.45. This was fine as I wanted to post a birthday card at the post office before leaving. It wasn't raining but it was cloudy and the weather forecast was ambivalent about my part of Aragon so I dressed 'wet weather' and set off, via the post office.
The clouds soon passed over, it became very warm and humid and I was pestered by little flies that kept going for my face, especially my eyes and my ears. My wet weather gear was uncomfortable.
In Selgua I stopped for coffee. I found it has a lovely hostel. In Tamarite, the girl who showed me to the albergue, asked if I was going to Monzon or Selgua. I didn't understand the question as my thoughts were between Monzon and Berbegal and I didn't know there was a hostel in Selgua. From what I saw of it I reckon it would have been worth the extra walk.

A few kms further on there was a sign, only 936 kms to Santiago, there's a pleasant thought.

The hermitage of Santa Aguedo

I planned to have a beer in Ilche but there was no bar, so I just had a rest.

Berbegal in the distance

My current info is from Eroski and it is much more detailed and reliable than what I had before. I am heading for Berbegal because the albergue is recommended by the Eroski site, as is Pueyo de Fañanas tomorrow.
In fact the albergue in Berbegal is super, it has everything, even a washing machine, so I have managed to get all clean. I was a bit dubious about whether my clothes would dry but they have.

The view from the albergue

 About 9.15 2  other pilgrims turned up, they had done the 42 kms from Tamarite, but I think they had also spent a little while in the bar before I saw them. they showered and went out for meal and returned about 3 am, giggling like school kids. they're friendly but not exactly what I had in mind when I wished for company.
Day 18 Berbegal to Pueyo de Fañanas 27kms

The view in the morning!

I had a coffee in the bar and started about 8. The first 7 kms were flat to Pertusa, where I stopped for another coffee.

After that the route was gently up and down. I started by wearing my jacket, as I have needed to recently but I soon realised that I didn't need it and had to stop and take it off. At Antillon I looked for a bar, I didn't find one but I found a kind of museum to the making of olive oil.
 
I wish I knew more about wild life. I thought I saw 2 eagles today but then they were joined by 2 others so I don't think they can have been eagles. They were big and black with rough wings and white heads. Also I have seen animal prints,one I think may have been a stoat or a weasel, if stoats or weasels are native to Spain. then there was an enormous print.

No, I didn't find a watch I put it down to measure the foot print!

One big question is: where are the sheep? I never see any and all the land is cultivated but every so often the paths are covered with tracks of large flocks of sheep. I thought the ' via pecuaria' or 'camino real' was something historical  but the sheep here just seem to go for long walks.
Day 19 Pueyo de Fañanas to Huesca 17kms

It was a grey morning but not raining, though rain is promised. I started walking with the sound of Louis Armstrong singing 'It's a wonderful world' in my head. Today is no more wonderful than any other but the route is through the country. It passed through 2 villages but Ola, the first, was too small for a bar then I read that Tierz, the second, is 500 metres off the route so I decided just to stop at a convenient spot. I took my break at the highest point and sat on a convenient rock, then I saw that the tiny yellow flowers around me were daffodils, I think they are the smallest I have ever seen.
 
After a rest I got up to continue. 'Oh my God'. I knew I was on a plateau but the way up had been gentle, the way down was horrendous, steep and tortuous.


Thank God it wasn't raining and hadn't rained. I think this was my hardest descent, but maybe I'm just forgetting the others. It was certainly the first time that I had to sit down on a rock to get my feet to the next level. I'm an embarrassment to myself when I am going downhill, I'm always glad that there is no one to see me though this time I was grateful that there were people somewhere behind me. Once I got down the rest of the walk was flat.

The 'Caseta Redonda'

Looking back

Hermitage of Sta Maria de Salas, once a pilgrim hospital

The albergue in Huesca is modern and purpose built and has every thing one needs. It opens at 13.30 though this time of the year that just means you can phone someone after that time. I phoned the first number on the list. An elderly man came, he said he was cooking lunch for some men friends and kept asking me to join them. He assured me I would enjoy it and maybe I would have but I'm not that out going. I went for a walk around, had some tapas and stocked up on my food supplies.
Tapas to die for!

What can I say, it's on the Cathedral wall, it must be art!!

I also decided that it would be a good idea to stick to the same stages as the guys as the walk up to San Juan de la Peña is going to be hard, especially if it rains but when I got back to the albergue they weren't there, no sign of them. I'm a bit peeved that they said they would be here and aren't. Anyway I am going to stick to my plan, The weather forecast says it will rain heavily for the next 2 days but the weekend should be warm and dry so I hope that on Sunday the path will not be too wet,
Day 20 Huesca to Bolea +/- 20 kms
The query over distance is because my sources don't agree.
I got up to pouring rain so it's 'wet weather'  gear again, off to a bar for breakfast and then on my way. The rain is moderate but not too heavy.

It didn't take much rain to wet the paths.

The route, according to the profile, is uphill but it wasn't really. It's mostly flat, with no major surprises. I passed an ancient reservoir, built in 1501, by order of the Knights Templar of St John of Jerusalem, who had considerable power in Aragon at that time. Not surprisingly it looks pretty natural now.

Then to Chimillas, the only village I will pass, so I stopped for a coffee and a read of my info. There's supposed to be a castle somewhere and a split in the route, easier but longer to the right, more ins and outs to the left.
Initially I think to the right, as it is raining, but I never saw the split. The castle more or less passed me by as well. It turned out that there are 2 big farms, both called castles, both ancient, both had chapels. The first is reputed to have been a 'hospital' for pilgrims, if the second was then it has changed, there were so many signs saying; 'private property, keep out ' and ' beware of the dogs' that I thought I had missed the path and almost overlooked the little arrow that showed the path through the farm properties.

Most of today's  route was on, what had been baked hard mud, the paths I preferred until today. Today they were soft, slippery, and claggy.

Mud, and sheep prints!

If I wasn't trying to stay upright I was wiping pounds of mud off my feet. My new boots are now well and truly broken in. I'm glad I bought them because my old boot would now be soaking wet and I would probably be in line for blisters tomorrow.

Bolea in the distance

This albergue is small and rather quaint, it has a kitchen and very hot water but no heating. I was going to look around the village and find the village shop this afternoon but the rain is so heavy now that I haven't been out at all. I am just grateful that I have plenty of food. I also have warm clothes.
For those who know me well and are wondering how I can pass on a glass of wine let me explain. I buy a bottle of wine alternate days and  decant half into a plastic bottle and carry it for the next day, together with a rice pudding or greek yoghurt and a piece of fruit, plus my dry emergency supplies. Today I also had some chicken pieces, half an onion and some garlic, so I managed a tasty meal.

Day 21 Bolea to Sarsamacuello 15 kms
The rain stopped in the late evening and a strong wind blew up. There was a big metal door open downstairs and it kept slamming. The albergue is next door to the Sports Hall, but separate, I could see the door but I couldn't get to it. I went to bed with ear-plugs, which almost deadened the sound. I was warm in bed, the blankets were incredibly warm. I slept moderatley well despite the slamming door. I woke at 6ish to see a clear sky and stars but when I woke again the sky was cloudy so I decideed not to take a risk  and dressed for wet. I went to the bar for breakfast and to return the key but the barman wouldn't let me pay for my breakfast, which was very nice of him, he said that it was; 'For the camino'.
The emblem of Bolea is the cherry so I reckoned that the blossom I saw as I left the village was cherry blossom.

The wind, once again was a very cold head wind but it had had the effect, overnight, of drying most of the paths, no muddy patches to slide on today but still some streams to cross. I spent most of the day just trying to maintain my equilibrium i.e remain upright.

Very soon after leaving Bolea I could see the castle of Loarre, I fondly imagined that the castle was not on my itinerary, it wasn't quite, but we had to go very close. Today was almost entirely uphill.

 

When I got near to Loarre I had to take a slight detour as a farmer had blocked the track, both top and bottom. A bit unkind!
Loarre is a very touristy little town, with a smart hotel, along Parador lines but not a national chain. I stocked up with food here, as there is no shop in Sarsamacuello, and I continued the last 4 kms. By this time the clouds had completely disappeared and the sun was shining, though the wind persists. Ideal weather for doing a little washing, as yesterday it had been impossible.

I got here too soon really but I'm just making use of the albergues as they occur and I certainly couldn't have walked any further yesterday because of the rain, and tomorrow is 24kms. Also I want the sun and the wind to dry the paths up to San Juan de la Peña. I've nearly finished this phase of the camino, I juust hope I manage that last ascent.

Walked - 464kms