Finishing the Via de la Plata

20th February 2014
Day 1 Verin to Laza 18kms
Here I go again, completing the Via de la Plata. This is a good way of training for the long walk ahead of me in March. I had intended starting this one on Saturday and to drive down to Ourense, leave my car somewhere quiet  and go to the bus station at a convenient time for the 10.30 bus to Verin but events caused a change as my car wouldn't start on Wednesday, it didn't seem sensible to sort out the problem and then to leave my car for a week so, as there are no buses at the weekend, I opted to start straight away. So I have had a 5.45 start, a 3 km walk and a 2.30 hours wait at the bus station, then a 2 hour drive to Verin. I got to Verin at 12.30 and went to look for a stamp for my credencial. I got started just before 1p.m. I'm not sure if it is good to walk along a road and to count every kilometre, I think that sometimes it is better not to know, it seemed slow going.

 

Where to park your umbrella when you go for a drink!

Eventually I came to a 'mojon', I thought that this was a 'one off ' for the Portuguese camino but then I found more so I reckoned that I had come to the point where the road I was following had reached the Camino Sanabres. The signs led off the road and through a little village, then back to the road, then stopped! I'm sure that there was a route off the road but I couldn't find it,  so I stuck to the road. I got to Laza at about 5 p.m. I went to the 'Proteccion Civil' to register and then to the albergue.

I'm the only pilgrim here but it's a lovely albergue, really well equipped. I did some shopping,  had a good meal and settled in for an early night:-)

Day 2 Laza to Vilar de Barrio 23 kms
I slept fairly well and got up at 7.45, so as to have breakfast before leaving the town. The weather forecast said it would rain, or snow, so I dressed up for wet weather. It was raining when I left the albergue but by the time I finished breakfast it had stopped and then the sun came out. The people at Civil Protection had given me a map and a profile of the walk to Vilar de Barrio, it was supposed to go up steeply for the first 15 kms then come down. The walk from Verin to Laza had been very unusual for Galicia in that it was all on the flat and today started flat. I realised that 15kms of very steep would get me very high so I started to hope it would not be too bad. The first 5-6 kms went smoothly, there were good signs, not just the normal ones but the fancy ones I had seen around Oseira. 

Also there were plenty of yellow arrows. Someone had put in a nice sign pointing backwards, just in case I wanted to turn around and go back!

There were some pretty villages and signs of how pilgrims have passed through here for centuries.

When the path started to go up it really did, the worst steep/long path that I have ever walked.

 

 It seems to have been a Roman road as there are signs of wheel tracks in the rock.

Fortunately it didn't rain because when I looked at the map I realised I was over 900 metres and they had forecast snow for above 800, I was a bit worried, I wasn't sure if, if it snowed, I would be worse off up a mountain were I might not see the signs or back on the road where I could be hit by a skidding car!! Fortunately it didn't snow.

This doesn't really show how steep it is but it shows me!

The first village at the top of the hill was Alburgueria, apparently there was a hospital here in medieval times, after that climb I can see why. According to Mundicamino, who had been the source of my info for this walk, there is no bar or anything there now. This is wrong as there is a super albergue, very welcoming. When I arrived there was no one there but the outside door was open and there is a toilet just inside, so I decided to sit outside for a drink and a rest and then use his facilities, but he turned up before I left, so I went in as well.

I had originally planned to walk 35 kms to Xunqueira de Ambia but after the steep walk I decided to stop in Vilar de Barrio. The walk after Albergueria was quite flat and I got to Vilar with no problem, the albergue there is good except that, although it has a lovely kitchen there are no cooking utensils and the bars in town did not do food so I had to have a cold meal. I couldn't even make a cup of tea or coffee. At least the place was warm.

Day 3 Vilar de Barrio to Ourense 34 kms
I didn't sleep too well, I kept hearing strange clunking noises and thought someone was trying to get in! I didn't get up to find out but in the morning I discovered that it was the fridge that clunks loudly. I got up early as I intended to walk all the way to Ourense, to make up for cutting yesterday short. It had poured with rain during the night and was still raining when I got up so, once again I dressed for rain but it only rained for a short time and then, once again, the sun came out. The first 13kms to Xunqueira were hard work, flat and boring to start with then a steep up and down. The down was particularly difficult as it was wet rock and very slippery. After Xunqueira it became easier but the shells were the wrong way round so I got confused, I was very grateful to find the other strange signs.

I had company for a little while, an elderly lady felt that, as I was walking alone, I should have someone to talk to but she insisted in talking in Gallego so it was a great test of my comprehension.

A pilgrim's corner at the edge of Ourense.

 

First view of Ourense.

When I arrived at Ourense I was alone again, and expected to stay that way but then a group of 26 Irish students turned up, very promising for the rest of the week!

Day 4 Ourense to Dozon 37+ kms
The students were noisy until midnight. I tried ear-plugs and a pillow over my head but I could still hear them. I woke up at 6.40 and decided that, as I was a wake, I would get up quietly and get away before the rush started. I left about 7.15. the streets near the albergue were full of drunks going home from their night out. I found a normal bar and had breakfast and then started the walk. I had spoken to one of the students and found that they were going to Oseira, she told me where they were going after that but the names didn't make much sense in Irish. Logically it was likely that we would end up in the same places again so after a lot of thought I decided to go for a long day and get ahead of them. After a long walk I got to the edge of the city, from where they seem to start doing measurements! From here the first part of the walk is steeply uphill and I hate hills, it was 21 kms to Cea, and I thought about 11 or 12 beyond that to Dozon. I got to Cea about 13.30, when I asked how far to Dozon I was told 16 kms, I decided that, however hard it was going to be it was worthwhile, just to get away from the students.
In fact the walk from Cea to Dozon was hell, the first part was OK but then it took me across the motorway and then I got worried because the track just lead uphill and way out into the country, no sign of houses or people, or even roads.

For ages I was in the middle of nowhere and it was threatening to rain and I was worried it was going to get dark and I would still be in the middle of nowhere. Needless to say the track eventually came back down and I crossed back to the right side of the motorway just on the edge of Dozon. I had a lovely little room to myself, the room was heated though the rest of the Albergue was not, the building is very big with big spaces and is designed for summer. I cooked a meal and it was stone cold before I had finished eating it, so I retired to the warmth of my little room.

Day 5 Dozon to Silleda 26 kms
I got up to find it was pouring with rain, after having one and a half days of good weather and 'normal' clothes it was back to 'wet' gear. I started walking in torrential rain but fortunately it didn't last too long, but by the time it finished my gloves were soaking wet and my hands were freezing. Eventually the weather improved.
After a good nights sleep I could see that yesterdays walk should have been very pleasant, it was lovely countryside, if I had done it in the morning I would have enjoyed it. I must try and be more relaxed and just enjoy.
I've done this walk, from Dozon to Santiago, before but I didn't remember any of it. It was OK up to Laxe, then it started getting hard, those last few kilometres seemed to go on forever. Many of the paths were soaking wet, I got to a cement draining ditch that was full of water flowing into a stream, there was a big stone to help cross over so I stood on it, the stone moved and I lost my balance, I put my foot in the drain but it didn't work and I ended up sitting in the water. For a few moments I was so unbalanced that I feared I was going to go right over, head first, into the stream, fortunately I managed to avoid that. I've often wondered what would happen if I fell over with a back-pack on, I imagined myself lying on my back like a tortoise, hoping that someone would come along and give me a hand-up! Fortunately I was able to grip the side and get myself up. It was a great test of my water-proofs, they worked :)
Eventually I got to Silleda, but it was hard work when so many paths are wet, muddy and slippery.

One of the nice wet paths.

 

I am staying in the same private Albergue that I stayed in last time, with a nice bed, and bedding, and a TV.





 

Day 6  Silleda to Vedra 24 kms

 Well today was WET! It wasn't raining when I left the Albergue but it started soon after, first it was just off and on but soon it became very much on. It poured, the kind of rain that hits the ground and then bounces up again. I was soon soaked, as was my left boot, I don't know why but I felt as if I was paddling inside my boot. At one point there was lightening as well, I was carrying metal poles and I was a little concerned about metal poles and lightening.

I got so wet that I decided that I would just carry on and walk all the way into Santiago, I was  doing quite well when I realised that my sopping wet foot was getting blisters. I was still going to carry on, I had opted to walk on the road and had ignored the turn-off for the camino and the albergue. Surprisingly I came to another sign for the Albergue, just 1 Km off the main road so I headed that way.

Chapel next to the Albergue.

 

When I got to the Albergue I was told that the Irish group were due to turn up, this had been another reason that I had planned to walk all the way to Santiago. Anyway I was given a little corner to myself, the handicap alcove, and I thought this would keep me away from the noisy people.

The weather became temperamental, heavy rainstorms alternating with sunshine. I stopped walking at 2pm so it got a bit boring but at least I was resting my feet and my boots could dry.

The last time I was here the 'hospitalera' did food but apparently this doesn't happen over winter. I had planned to have food here so I had not bought provisions but fortunately I had just enough left to tide me over.

 

Day 7 To Santiago +/-15kms

What a night! The Irish group arrived in dribs and drabs from 5.30 onwards, some walking some in taxis. By the time the albergue shut at 10 pm some had still not arrived. You'd think that by 6.30 or 7, when it starts to get dark, that they would decide to take a positive step to get to the next albergue or to stop somewhere else, the route was not completely away from civilisation, although the albergue is in the middle of the country it is only 5 or 6 kms from a small town with all facilities and until then always close to the main road. In the end these students knocked on someone's door at 12.30 a.m. and the 'hospitalera' was called to pick them up!!! So, lots of movement and noise, then a big group sat up and talked and laughed until 2.30 and then they got up at 5.45 a.m. ! It's not surprising that they are too tired to walk in a sensible fashion. Having been well and truly woken I decided to get up too. I don't like walking in the dark, I can't see the point but I started off. It is a pleasant walk in day light, through a forest, but the path was littered with big puddles. I was soon passed by a group of students and they were walking well so I don't understand why they had finished there days so late (apparently they had made a habit of arriving very late). My feet were suffering from having been wet the day before so I walked slowly, in any case I was not in a hurry.

After a while I saw a bar on the main road so I walked down to the road and had a coffee, I was just on the edge of the village of Susana.

From here I went back onto the camino and soon came to a 'mojon' with the distance marked.





 



Not long now!

The first clear view of the cathedral of Santiago.



I got a new certificate to say I have really finished the Via de la Plata, which would look better if I could turn it round the right way! Then I went to Mass and found that the 'Botifumeiro', the giant incense distributor' was going to fly. There were very few people so I had a great view, I thought I took a video but I still haven't sussed out how to do decent video from my phone and I had failed to press a vital button, so no video, not even a photo.

So this is an old one, and not very clear, oh well it just means I will have to return to Santiago and try again!

I had lunch in Santiago and started the journey home. My left foot is suffering so I was very grateful that a friend picked me up from the bus stop and I was saved the last 3 km walk.
I have 2 weeks until I start again so I must heal my blisters quickly. I need to have a good look at my boot and see what was the problem  and I must reflect on what I have learnt from this week and try and put it into practice on the next walk.

 

 



Via Tolosano Week 2

Day 1 Morlaas to Lescar 20 kms

 All flat today, not surprising that Pau has an airport and a race course. I thought I would have a coffee in Pau but the path took us through a wood and almost all around the race course and then out of town again, I never saw a bar or a cafe.

A sign in the wood.

The race course!

There were different signs.  Some were very annoying as they put a time between 2 towns but didn't put a distance, Jacky reckoned that the national group who control the paths in France reckon people walk 4 kms per hour, I was sure that these signs were expecting people to walk 5 kms per hour.

 

a combined sign but without the time.

I was tired and wanted to get to Lescar quickly, in order to get a rest, so I put my theory to the test. I had to walk very quickly, the signs said 4 hours, I did it but only because it was flat, to expect pilgrims with back packs to walk 5 kms per hour every day is rubbish. I got very cross with the signs.

This sign is guaranteed to confuse anyone used to walk caminos in Spain. It lead in the wrong direction and had nothing to do with the camino/chemin.

I noticed a new smell today, last week the predominant smells were; a flowery smell that I could neither identify nor find the cause of and figs. The figs could be smelt before being seen as they are falling and rotting on the ground. today the smell was mint though I also identified what was producing the flowery smell, though I don't know what it is.

a very small but very smelly flower (pleasant smelly!)



The outside, not much to look at but plenty of room.



outside seating area.

The Refuge in Lescar is super, very well equipped, not what I would describe as a 'refuge' at all, just an unattended Auberge. There are 2 rooms and 2 sets of showers and toilet, so I had a room to myself, with 6 beds and an en-suite.

When I arrived I went for a little look around, and a beer, then had a siesta. I don't think I slept but it rested my feet.



Jacky didn't turn up till 4. I thought he must have gone on, though that would have been a very long walk, but he walked through Pau. He said it wasn't worth the 10 kms detour!!

We seem destined to continue together for a bit longer. It's nice to have some company. We don't walk together, just pass from time to time and meet in the evenings. It should be improving my French but I am sure it is getting worse.



Me, resting my feet a moment!

Day 2 Lescar to Oloron Ste Marie  32 kms

I looked out of the bathroom window, in the morning, and saw some clouds, then I heard rain, so I looked again - rain!  I looked out a couple of times over breakfast and it continued to rain, so it was a wet-gear day. When we left the Auberge it had stopped raining, we thought our wet-gear might have worked the magic, but no such luck. For the first hour or so it kept drizzling and then stopping, then it started more heavily. Once again there was a shortage of places to stop for a break, nowhere in the first village, then, in La Commande, I found a little sheltered spot, by the church, with a big plank of wood to sit on, then the heavens opened, a real thunderstorm. I decided to wait a little to see if it would pass over but it didn't take me long to realise that it wasn't going to.

A photo of rain falling!

It poured from then on. The walk was up and down, through woods, the paths had streams running through them. Do we always choose water courses for paths or does water like to choose paths? It just got wetter and wetter. I even saw a tree with water just flowing down the trunk. I wanted a loo but there was no chance. There was no way I would even take off my bag and put it down, let alone any of the other necessaries, next time I'll come back as a man, I'm sure they have it better all round.
I had planned to stop for lunch at about 1.30, but there was nowhere to stop. For once there were some nicely placed tables and benches, lovely on any other day, but not today. In the end I gave up on eating, until I remembered I had an apple in my pocket and I ate that. I continued happily and was on the last 11 kms. I think I had walked 4 or 5 when I found myself on a road. I trundled along singing happily to myself; 'Show me the way to go home!!' Fatal! I had missed a sign, I had no idea where I was. I asked a man in his garden, he was stacking stuff on a trailer, he told me that I should have turned into a wood but that, if I turned left  and followed the road down I would come to some signs. I followed the road, then another man, in a car, told me to turn right, walk to a house I could see in the distance, turn left and I would follow a tarred road, parallel to the route through the wood, which would be very muddy, so off I went. With hindsight, a truly excellent thing, I should have retraced my steps till I found the sign, but I went off the track. I walked to the house, turned left and followed the tarred route ... and ended up in someones drive. I retraced my steps to the road but I had no idea which direction I needed to take, so I walked further back, to a house with a big lorry parked outside, with it's hazard lights on.  eventually I attracted the attention of some workmen who kindly invited me in, out of the rain, but by that time I was so wet that it didn't matter. They pointed me back, in the direction that I had first come from. I was to go to; 'the blue church then turn right.' I suppose to the lorry driver the blue church didn't seem too far away but I had no idea where it was, I certainly couldn't see it.  I was getting worried, it was only 4ish but seemed very dark and I was lost. Then a white van drove from a farm, the driver called something to me but I didn't catch it, he was joking about me and the rain, but then he offered me a lift and I accepted. for the first time, on any camino, I accepted a lift :(  Very naughty but I was very grateful. I worried about accepting as I was dripping but he said 'no matter'. He dropped me by the station in Oloron so I went into the station to get out my guide book, so I could phone the gite but my guide was so wet the pages were stuck together!
When I left the station another man offered assistance, he said he had done the camino 11 years before and now he liked to help pilgrims. He showed me the way to the cathedral and pointed out the direction of the gite, I assumed that I would find signs for the camino by the Cathedral. I found a lovely square and a tablet for the Chemin d'Arles but no direction signs.

So I returned to where I had started and walked in the direction of the gite, then I found signs and a map, it seemed to indicate that the Auberge was back by the Cathedral, so I started back, eventually I gave up and went to the Tourist Office, where I was given instructions on how to find the Auberge and the code for the door.  I was so wet I decided just to dump my bag and go shopping before I removed any of my wet clothes. On the way back to the Auberge I got behind a woman walking extremely slowly so I stepped off the pavement to pass her but I got a severe pain in my heel so I stepped back! 

Eventually I get settled in, showered and with dry clothes. There was a drier for drying wet clothes. My papers were mostly a lost cause, though I managed to save some. When I looked at the map I discovered that I had been right by the route when the man in the car sent me on a wild goose chase. I only had about 5 kilometres to walk.

All around Oloron is a lovely smell of chocolate, I had looked in a few bars to see where I could get a hot chocolate but I couldn't find one. The hospitalero said the smell comes from the Lindt factory and is a sign of bad weather!

Day 3 Oloron to Sarrance 20 kms

Wet!! It rained all night and was still raining. Damp clothes, wet boots. I planned to walk to Bedous but in a wood I stepped up to avoid some flooded mud and had an excruciating pain in my heel again.  My heel had been painful for several days, but nothing like this. I had to make the decision not to attempt the climb up the Pyrenees, and curtailed my days walk. When I caught up with Jacky I told him I would be stopping.

All in all the days walk was diabolical. I managed to miss a turn early on, I was too busy thinking about how I would plan the next few days, so I had to back track, adding at least 1 extra kilometer. Several times I had to backtrack because I couldn't believe I was on the right track. Once because there was barbed wire across the path, this could be folded back, like a gate but I wandered around for a while trying to work out where I should be. Once because I was walking down a fast flowing stream, almost a waterfall, I had visions of ending up in the river, so I went back to check, it was right, so I carried on down, paddling. At the bottom of the hill half the water went straight ahead, half turned onto the camino, I followed the path and came to 2 really deep, fast flowing streams, apparently I was supposed to cross them both, no way. I don't think I could have at any time but with a back-pack and a dodgy foot! I gave up and paddled back up the stream and back to the road, from there I continued on the road. Escot had a lovely little shelter, where I had my lunch, there was even a toilet, but as it was a hole in the floor I passed on that. I had had a coffee break earlier and discovered that re-adjusting cold wet trousers isn't pleasant.

My walking got slower and slower, at one point I tried to speed up but my heel became more painful, so I reverted to the crawl. Eventually I arrived at Sarrance. I walked towards the church where I was met by a lady who took me to the 'Sanctuary', it is attached to the church and run by a monk, altogether a bit of a strange set-up but very welcoming. There was an English man here but no Jacky, he must have continued to Bedous.  I was useful in translating.

I phoned the Albergue in Canfranc Estacion, it is closed but the lady there suggested I continue straight on to Jaca as there is a lot of water in Canfranc, she said there are plenty of buses going down. All in all I think it would not have been a good moment to continue walking even if my foot had been OK but my foot helped me make the decision. In fact I made the decision that this is perhaps the time to stop walking altogether. So.. here endeth my Via Tolosano!

It didn't end the adventure though!

Bernard and I had both opted to join the priest/priests for the evening meal, this was quite an expensive option, especially as I was carrying food. The meal was mediocre but there was a young man there whose family are wine producers in Bordeaux, he had brought 2 bottles of wine, excellent wine. The table was set for 11 so he opened both bottles, in fact we were 6 but we had to finish both bottles once they were opened, there was also an excellent cheese, a present from someone else! Altogether it was an interesting evening.

Sunday, 21st October

The bus journey down was interesting too, it was possible to see how high the rivers were flowing.

The Auberge is in the building at the back, with the smoke!





Driving into Etsaut the road was blocked by fallen stones and the driver had to reverse back onto the road. When we got to the tunnel we heard that the road down to Jaca was closed to buses and lorries because of flood damage, that concerned me a little but there was a man on the bus who reminded me that there is a train. In Canfranc Estacion I did a recce, there was a train at 18.15! Then I spoke to the Guardia Civil, they said not to worry, as the bus company would probably find an alternative in some way. There was a bus parked there but no sign of a driver, then a mini bus turned up, the driver said that he would be leaving at 13.10, so all was well. There were loads of tourists and TV people, all taking photos of the damage, the town had been flooded the previous evening, apparently there had even been suggestions that the people should be evacuated! On the way down we saw that half of the road had been washed away!

In Jaca I had great problems finding the Albergue, I kept wandering near it but never quite finding the signs were I expected them, in the end someone gave me directions and I found it, just as the hospitalera arrived at 3pm. There was no problem about me staying, even though I had bussed the last bit. I was the first but was soon joined by 2 others, a young Spaniard, just starting, and a Dutch man who had walked from Monserrat to Huesca, then taken the bus to Oloron and walked back from there, he had made it over the mountain! In the evening I had something to eat then was going to lie down and rest my foot but the 2 lads invited me to go out with them for a glass of wine, I was going to decline but it was very sweet of them and it takes a lot for me to decline a glass of wine! 

The Albergue started to get busy, there were 2 American lads who had walked to Monreal and just returned for their luggage and 3 Germans, just starting. The most pilgrims I had seen in 10 days! 

Jaca Cathedral

Jaca old town

The cuidadella

Monday morning I got the bus to Pamplona and was going to continue to Burgos and visit Sto Domingo de Silos.

I bought my tickets at Pamplona station and sat in the bar waiting for the train, then I put my hand in my pocket!!! I had lost my camera, I was frantic. I had taken a taxi from the bus station to the train station so I thought it must have fallen out in the taxi. I asked the taxi drivers outside and they broadcast a message to all the taxi drivers, then I realised that if I left Pamplona I had no hope of getting it back so I cancelled my ticket and resigned myself to 2 nights in Pamplona. An expensive 2 nights because, of course, I went on a spending spree. I needed a bag, and an umbrella, and a nightie and food!!

The next morning I went to the bus station to meet the bus from Jaca and the bus driver had my camera, so all ended well.

As I left Jaca I saw pictures of San Juan de la Penya, I really wanted to go there, it's on the route from Catalunya, the Cami San Jaume. I fancy that, maybe if I finish the Via de la Plata in spring that will be the next.....! Did I think I had stopped?
For some reason I really enjoyed this camino, more than any other I think, but I think I am resigned to not crossing the Pyrenees, I will leave that to those younger and fitter.