Santiago to Muxia

Saturday: Santiago to Negreira 22 kms
I got up at 7am, had a quick breakfast and left at 7.30. I saw some people starting but it suddenly dawned on me that, if most of the people walking had done the Frances they would be used to starting before 6h, as they are used to starting early so as not to find the albergues full. I met quite a few people, this is strange for me as my last few caminos have been very quiet. It was a pleasant walk. I've done this stretch before but last time it was pouring with rain. There were more ups than I remember, I suppose there were more downs too but I don't dislike them.

My last view of Santiago

I got to Negreira about 12.30. I had the idea that the last time I was there the door was open but that the hospitalera was not there all the time, so I hoped I would be able to go straight in. As I passed the supermarket I checked that it would be open later then went straight up. I got there at 12.40, the note on the door said that it opened at 13.00 but it was open and nearly full!  Some of the people seemed to have been there for quite a while, and had done there shopping. I got the feeling that I would not be needing an alarm in the morning!!

The albergue is in a lovely spot and the weather was super, ideal for washing and drying outside. The showers are not to my liking as there are no doors and they are so placed that, if anyone should open the outer door just as you get out of the shower you are visible from outside. I have great memories of this shower room because last time I was there I arrived with a very wet towel, far too wet to dry on, so I tried to dry myself under the hand dryer! Fortunately there were fewer people there in October:)

The cooking facilities are less than ideal. There was equipment, just not enough space for cooking when there are lots of people. As I hadn't really had any lunch I decided to cook early and beat the crowds, from then on the rush started and there was constant use of the kitchen all evening. It was one of those occasions when it would have been sensible to have a joint meal, but it was the first day, lots of languages and not enough seating.

When I went to bed I discovered that I had chosen the wrong bedroom. There had been a spare bed in both when I arrived, I had chosen the room that was west facing and the sun had been streaming in all afternoon.

Sunday: Negreira to Olveiroa  35kms

Well I was right about not needing an alarm, there were 8 of us in the room and 4 got up at 5.30, they were not very quiet. When they left at 5.45 the American couple got up so I decided to get up at 6am. I discovered that the Spanish lad next to me had set his alarm for 6 too, so we were all up!

I was one of the last to leave, even so I was overtaken by people, mostly the same people I had seen yesterday, they must have gone to private albergues, but it was nice to see some familiar faces.

The weather forecast had said hot weather but it was wrong. It started sunny but soon became overcast, which was a great relief. The walking seemed heavy going, especially as people kept passing me, I felt like I was on a go slow, then suddenly I came to the first bar, it was at 13kms and I hadn't realised that I had walked that far, it was full of people, including many who had got up at 5.30.

After a cup of coffee and some chocolate I felt revived. I continued walking and passed a municipal albergue!

It had obviously not been use for some time. I had vaguely contemplated walking on to here, rather than staying in Negreira, I'm glad I didn't!

The next 7 km of my walk went quite quickly. I stopped for a second coffee, then the weather really changed. It was not heavy rain, just misty wet, still it was better than strong sun. I was going to stop for lunch at about 2pm but realised that this would not be very far from Olveiroa and I was fairly sure that the albergue would be full and I would have to walk on another 3 kms, so I decided to carry on and test my luck. I arrived shortly after 2 and saw people going in and out of doors. I saw a French man I had seen the previous night and asked him if it was full, the answer was no, but go into that door there, there's a bathroom. I found this information a bit confusing, so he repeated it. I was still confused, I understood the words but not the sense, anyway I did as I was told. I found a sweet little cottage with a bunk and a bed upstairs and a bunk bed downstairs, only the top bunk was vacant but I grabbed that, then I investigated. The albergue covers several old houses in a small street in a small

village. One house housed 2 big dormitories and the showers, one had 6 beds upstairs but no wash facilities and one was my little cottage. When I grabbed the top bunk I was a bit doubtful as I recognised the sleeping bag on the bottom bunk, it was the young Spaniard I had been next to the previous night and he had been less than friendly. He continued to be unfriendly!
I went to the bar for a beer and met 3 people from Negreira, a Danish woman, a Belgian man and the French man who had pointed me to the cottage. The others recognised me and called me to join them, the French man had no idea he had seen me before, just shows how unremarkable I am, he had only pointed me to the cottage because I had addressed him in French:)
After my beer I went back to the cottage to rest my weary feet. I had no problem getting up to my bunk but quite a bit getting down so I decided to be really organised. lol I got up and realised I had forgotten my specs so I had to get down again, then the outer door, a stable door, blew open in the wind, by this time it was pouring with rain, so I got down again to lock the lower half of the door. When my 'bunk-mate' appeared I explained about locking the lower half of the door, he merely grunted.
I eventually got my self organised and later, when my bunk-mate re-appeared he was all smiles and apologies, sometime in the afternoon it had dawned on him that he had understood what I had said. Once he discovered that we had a common language there was no stopping him from talking. There were not many Spaniards and I think he was feeling just a little isolated, not a good feeling in your own country.
There were no blankets in our cottage but a Chinese girl upstairs said there were loads in the big dorms so I went to try my luck. I got a blanket but they are very thin weave. It was a case of using my fleece blanket, that blanket and going to bed fully dressed. The hospitalero said the heating would come on at 11pm, which it did but it was only just warm enough. Old stone houses are designed to keep out the warmth, and the cold.
Monday:
Olveiroa to Muxia 28 kms
I slept pretty well, I was just about warm enough. I got up at 6 and started early. It was a pleasant morning, it had stopped raining and dried out. The early part of the morning was steeply uphill so I was walking slowly and was quickly overtaken, first by two women, one Spanish and one Italian, they had become friends on the camino and talked non-stop, as they passed I asked them how they managed to talk and walk uphill so fast, they said it was the poles. Then some French people passed me, again with poles. I let them go and ambled on. I then pondered on why it was necessary to go so fast. I know that I am very slow on hills and I don't think that poles would help me, it is my lungs not my feet that slow me down but on the flat I enjoy wandering at my own speed, sometimes slower, sometimes faster but looking around.

The dividing point!

The walk was lovely, at least for the first 20 km, then it started to get wetter, though it was not too bad.  

A horreopede!

 Early views of Muxia

 

The weather was kind until I arrived in Muxia. There was heavy rain then a break, so I decided to take advantage of the break and to visit the Sanctuary and see the sights that draw people here. Unfortunately the break was very short, then it poured and there was a strong wind. I got to the sanctuary but I was soaked and I really couldn't see anything. At least I had the satisfaction of knowing that I had made the effort. I went back to the albergue to dry off and change my clothes.

The Albergue was full and only 3 of us had come from Muxia, the rest were from Finisterre so I would have imagined that they would know each other but they did not communicate at all, except the few who were travelling companions. Only once did I hear two people recognise each other from some earlier moment.

Tuesday: to home

It was not a good night, quite a bit of snoring and I couldn't get comfortable. I just wanted to get up and go home! I had put my alarm on for 6 but by 5.45 people were moving so I turned it off and got up. It didn't take long for most people to be up.

It was another lovely clear morning.

Early morning views.

As I sat on the bus I reflected on how pilgrims (mostly other Europeans) must appear to Spaniards Only one woman said "Hola" to the driver, and I'm afraid it wasn't me, I would normally say; "Buenos dias" as I get onto a bus so I don't know where my manners had gone either. The driver was pretty surly with all of us and there was a sign up, in 4 languages, saying: no eating and drinking and don't take your shoes off; I wonder what kind of experiences have led to a poster like that.

I had a long wait in Ourense and time to reflect on my experience; I hope never to do another camino in June (or July or August) unless it is one of the quieter routes. I feel very sorry for people who can only walk over the summer months as this early morning rush to get to the next albergue, in order to get a bed, is a very sorrowful experience.

I have also done an interesting test of socks, this was unintentional, but having lost a pair of new socks in Caceres, and having decided to do a spur of the moment camino, I walked with 2 very different pairs of socks. One pair was definitely not to be recommended, had I been wearing them all the time I would have had major problems, I have decided that blisters and foot problems are to do with socks and not boots, now I just have to find a second pair of good socks:) Though I also need new boots before starting the Cami Catalan next spring:) 



 

 

 

 











Camino Ingles!

Sunday
Here I go again, I've had a brainstorm. I decided yesterday that I will start the Camino Ingles tomorrow. This decision came out of the blue, it means I will be walking in my old boots! The weather is cool at the moment, yesterday was very wet, but it is set to improve. In fact the temperature in Santiago is promised to be about 30 degrees next weekend so I may regret this decision, though it does mean that I will not have to carry a sleeping bag this time. I have my silk liner and I've cut down a fleece throw to make a small blanket, just in case I cannot find blankets in some of the albergues. I will walk Ferrol to Santiago, then Santiago to Muxia.
My bag is almost packed:)

Monday

Another very early start to get the bus to Ourense, then on to A Coruña and Ferrol. I arrived in Ferrol at 13.15, as we approached the bus station we drove through the Plaza de España, which was where I hoped to pick up my credencial, so it was easy to find my way back. That particular place no longer does 'credencials' but the security guard told me where to go and it was quite close by. In fact they didn't give me a proper credencial but a scrappy piece of paper, but as I wasn't sure that I would be able to get to Ferrol before 2pm I had made myself a credencial so I very soon reverted to mine.

I walked down to the port to start at the beginning. At the Tourist office they told me there was a pillar engraved with the name of the Camino Ingles, I expected it to be near the port but it was on the other side of the road so it took me a long time to find it but eventually 2 men pointed me in the right direction.

It was 2pm before I eventually started walking and then I needed to stop for lunch. I found a garden opposite the Parador, it belongs to the Navy but is open to the public.

 The signs through Ferrol were sparse and not always where I expected them, eventually I got out of town and out to the dockyards. I'm not sure what was happening below but I think it was a protest about the number of people now out of work from the ship building or docks.

 The walk was along the Ria and river Xubia. It kept trying to rain but it was warm and there was a breeze so I reckoned that if I got a bit damp I would probably dry out again. I was only planning to walk the 12 kms to Neda as I had started very late.

I must have got lost somewhere, I'm sure I followed the signs and I found the monastery I was supposed to find but the signs had completely disappeared. I knew that I was supposed to be walking along the river bank so I carried on following a path and crossed the river on a footbridge next to the railway line.

I got to Neda on the wrong side but a young man helped me and took me to the library as the librarian is responsible for organizing the camino in this area. He phoned the hospitalero and got him to pick me up. He also suggested that I should walk to Betanzos the next day, not Miño as I had planned. He said that Betanzos is worth spending time in. The Albergue was busy, 3 Brits, 4 Italians and 1 Hungarian.

Tuesday Neda to Betanzos 31 kms.
Up at 7am then off to a bar for breakfast, on the way I took a photo of the bridge I had crossed the day before.

Neda is a very long town, running along the river, I had to walk a long way to find a bar but it was in the right direction. Then I started the walk proper, it started with a steep climb, and this more or less set the scene. The climbs just got steeper. After a while Soltan, the Hungarian guy, caught up with me and we spent the day passing each other from time to time. It was nice to see someone.

I stopped for a coffee in Pontedeume, from there it seemed just straight up hill.

 

 

From Pontedeume it was another 13kms to Miño, mostly up but just a few downs, just enough downs to make you wonder why you went up in the first place. By Miño I was gagging for a beer so I stopped for a lunch break, then continued to Betanzos, most of that was uphill too!

I passed some pretty flowers, pretty places and lovely views. The sea views and views of the Rias are lovely, much more appealing than the sea views on the Portugues. The weather was very warm, it seemed to be hot and sultry, and yet there was also a breeze and as the sun was not shining it was not uncomfortable. The route was very well signed and I only got lost once and that was not serious, I was rescued by a young lady who set me on the right track again.

 2 views of walking into Betanzos

Betanzos is a lovely medieval town and the albergue is an old house that has been reclaimed, it only opened recently.

The Albergue.

Above are some views of Betanzos.

 

I picked up an orange during my walk, it had fallen off a tree, onto the road, it was the only bit of ripe fruit I found but it was lovely and sweet, I just needed it at the time as it was a long walk.

We were not many in the Albergue, 5 young Spanish, Soltan and I. Tomorrow we go to Bruma but the worst of the walking should be over now as the rest is not so steep.

Wednesday: Betanzos to Bruma

I slept well, there were no blankets so I was glad of my fleece but I also needed to add my towel during the night, after that I was warm enough.

I started my walk confidently as I had a map and the hospitalero had marked the route out of town. It soon went wrong! I walked 4 kms out of Betanzos, down the road I was sure I should take. I was supposed to come to a roundabout and turn left, instead I came to a road junction, the N -VI. To the right was signed Lugo and Madrid, to the left A Coruna. I knew I didn't want Lugo or Madrid and I wasn't going to walk back the 4 kms so I decided to head towards A Coruna, I was sure that if the worst happened I would simply cross the Camino from A Coruna. I walked 2 or 3 kms then came to another junction, this said Betanzos and Ferrol, but also Meson do Vento, I had seen that name in my info so I decided to take that route. I turned down the slip road and discovered that I was still in Betanzos, I had simply walked a very big circle. The signs said 23 kms to Meson do Vento, this was promising as my info had said it would be 28kms to Bruma and I knew the two were close so I carried on, still hopeful that I would catch up with the camino in Abegondo. It was all road and heavy going but at least I could count down the kilometres, and there were bars so I got a coffee stop. When I got to Abegondo there was no sign of the camino but I got my credencial stamped at the Town Hall and carried on. The distance marks were variable, they didn't always match with what had gone before.

I passed a little chapel and a medieval cross that looked as though they should have been on the camino. The cross had been moved from somewhere but it wasn't clear where.

Eventually I came to an arrow, it lead me off the road, through dense grass, then through a wood then round 2 sides of a field then back onto the road, very close to where I had come off. The camino often seems to do this, it seems to be just to make us walk further. Once back on the road I came to another bar and stopped for a beer and a sandwich, it was a great relax. The landlady said it was only 2 to 3 kms to Bruma, I hadn't reckoned on it being so little so I was a bit doubtful but I found the turn off for the camino very quickly and it seemed a very short time before I saw the sign for the Albergue, with the hospitalera standing outside.

It seems that Bruma does not really exist as a place, it was the site of a medieval 'hospital' so was the first place to have an Albergue on the modern camino. It is a tiny hamlet in the country, but a lovely old building and the hospitaleros were lovely. It became very busy, by my standards anyway, we were 14! 7 Italians, 5 Spanish, 1 Hungarian and me.

 

Thursday Bruma to Sigueiro  25 kms

It was pouring with rain when we got up. The hospitalero had said that there would be a bar open at 8 kms, then nothing, so we all headed off for an 8 km walk for breakfast. on the way we passed some interesting sculptures.

 

The 2 young Spaniards and Soltan were walking all the way to Santiago, the rest of us were going to Sigueiro. I have seen this all estimated at various distances but the hospitalero said 25 kms to Sigueiro, which I reckon was right. The rain eased off as we were walking and stopped before 9. I got to the bar at 9 and had a coffee, toast and jam and then a second coffee, much to the surprise of the landlady. The Spanish idea of a big coffee and my idea of a big coffee are very different!

The walk was very pleasant, side roads and then woodland and well signed. I intended to stop for a rest at about 20 kms, provided I found somewhere to sit, there should have been, there was a bus shelter but it was occupied by local yokels, so I carried on. I decided that if it was only 5k more I would soon arrive. I arrived on the outskirts of Sigueiro at 1pm, it took me a little longer to reach the Pension (no albergue here) but I got there in time to have a shower before lunch. Most of the Italians have come to the same place, including 1 I hadn't seen before. It was lovely to have a room to myself, I decided just to lie and chill. I was planning an early start in the morning to get to Santiago before 11 am.

Friday: Sigueiro to Santiago 16.5 kms

I was woken at 6 by someone going to the bathroom and coughing his head off, so I decided I might as well get up too. I got down to the bar just before 6.30 and discovered it was already open. I had breakfast and started walking at 7. It was foggy to start with, but that is a good sign, of sun to come. There was an elderly Italian man (by elderly I mean much older than me!), I don't know where he had been before Sigueiro but he soon caught me up and passed me and disappeared into the distance. At 10 kms from Santiago there were some distance markers.

 

It is nice to see progress being made! The profile seemed to indicate that the walk was fairly flat but there were plenty of ups and downs.

My first view of Santiago, though not very clear!

 I got to Santiago at 10.30 and got rid of my backpack at the Seminario Mayor, which was were I had opted to stay this time, then went to the Cathedral and the Pilgrim's Office. The girl was a bit iffy about my unofficial credencial and my stamp from Abegondo, she had to ask someone about that, they decided that if I was really mad enough to add part of the camino from A Coruna to the camino from Ferrol then that was OK. I then had coffee in my favourite bar!

Santiago was heaving, there were bus loads of tourists, many of them English speaking. The 'botifumeiro' was hanging. I took a standing place when suddenly someone who was sitting down decided to leave so I got a seat. The botifumeiro had been paid for by a group of National Police men/women who had walked and cycled the camino. The Bishop gave a nice vote of thanks to the police for the role they play in helping the vulnerable, I liked what he said, it seemed appropriate to my son as he starts life in the Army. I have always been lucky and seen the botifumeiro  many times but it never ceases to put a smile on my face. Also the Mass started with a welcome to all pilgrims, particularly to those who had taken a camino, I liked that too, usually it's the bus loads who are acknowledged.

I had lunch then had a rest, I had to keep reminding myself that I haven't finished walking, I have to do the rest this time.

 I was glad I was in the Seminario Mayor, it was nice and handy for everywhere, it has a lift to the 4th floor and although my room was Spartan and looked like student accommodation it had an en-suite.