Trying the Camino del Norte

COVID-19 continues. In fact it gets worse and worse and I greatly fear another lock down, so I have made the decision to grab the opportunity and do a little bit of the Camino del Norte. Originally I planned to start on the 8th October but this would mean walking over a Bank Holiday weekend so in the end I decided to just up and off. I bought my train ticket for Oviedo and then saw a weather forecast. Storm Alex this weekend!! Never mind, off I go.
Day 1: Friday 2nd October - to Aviles.

Up early, earlier than I had intended, but it was good that I did, I had forgotten that it takes me half an hour to get ready and out! The weather was foul. I had heard rain several times in the night and I got up to a storm. the drive was a worry but it was OK I only had to avoid one fallen tree! 

I was worried about the train journey, I had been imagining all sorts of weird things about travelling in COVID, but it was all fine.  Wearing a mask all day was a pain and I almost overlooked the bit about no refreshment services on trains but I realised just in time and bought a bottle of Aquarius in the station. That served as my morning coffee and my afternoon tea. The train I was on was the train from La Corunna to Barcelona, at least 14 hours with no refreshments, it must have been tough for anyone doing the entire journey. Fortunately I only had a four hour journey to Leon, where I had time to have lunch in the cafe, before catching the next train. I had a moments panic when I saw airport type luggage scanners on the way to the platform as I had my corkscrew/penknife somewhere in my backpack. I haven't had my luggage scanned for a train journey in years. In the end I told a security guard and asked if I was going to have problems, he reassured me, no scanner for travelling to Asturias!

On the train I was accosted by a fellow pilgrim. Normally I like to meet fellow pilgrims but this guy was one of those who never stops talking, and most of it was rubbish, when he started telling me that he was divorced and on his own I decided it was time to stop being polite! Originally I am sure that he told me that he was going to Aviles and I was dreading the next few days but he was going to Gijon. What a relief.

The train journey from Leon to Oviedo goes through the mountains and they already had a dusting of snow.

Originally I had told myself that I should go to the albergue first, as soon as I arrived in Aviles, to check the cooking facilities before doing a shop, but instead I decided to do a shop on the way from the station. I was sure that even if there were a kitchen I would only be able to use a microwave. In fact the albergue in Aviles has a very well equipped kitchen and it was open for use.

There were 5 other pilgrims, different nationalities and all female. I spent a pleasant evening chatting to a Lithuanian girl and a couple of German ladies. The place was nice and warm and I had plenty of food.

Day 2 Aviles to Muros de Nalon 23kms

During the night there were some strange wailing noises. I think it was the wind howling around the building, which is on a corner, also there were occasional, very heavy, rainfalls. We all got up just after 7, apart from a young girl who seemed to do nothing but sleep, I saw a glimpse of her in the evening, but she never got up and mobilized.  I left in pouring rain to go and find some breakfast, then I started walking. 

 There are two options for the first part and I opted for the route through Piedras Blancas as I rather hoped that it was shorter. Somewhere I must have missed a turn but I found a road that I should get on to later so I took the road, it meant a lot of tarmac for the first 5 to 6 km. I had another coffee in Piedras Blancas, a bit early but the day was short on options. After this the path became less tarmac and more wooded, though still quite a lot on the road. Then I did a really stupid thing and ignored a sign and headed up the main road, for what I thought would be a better option, what I hadn't realized was that I had come onto the main road higher than I had anticipated  when I googled it, and the signed route in front of me was the one I was looking for. The result was that, after half an hour of walking I ended back at the same place on the main road. That should teach me not to avoid signs, though I really ought to have learnt that before. The paths are very wet, not too muddy but sometimes there are big puddles.

Not many cyclists, even though it is Saturday, but quite a few horses and riders passed me. 

I didn't see any pilgrims until I arrived in Muros, there I saw an old man in the bar, he seemed to be being interviewed for something. He left the bar, apparently to continue walking but, several hours later I saw him sitting in a little park, up the road. He looked a bit like a tramp, but this is not weather for sleeping rough. I took the opportunity of a short break in the rain to have a look at Muros and find the way out for the morning.

Later I was joined in the albergue by a German couple, the people from last night seem to have gone elsewhere.

Day 3 Muros de Nalon to Novellana 21+kms

I had a room to myself in the albergue and slept till 7.30. Breakfast was at 8, supposedly, but this being Spain it was a bit later! It was necessary to have breakfast here as it was Sunday and no other bars were open, and there was no guarantee of finding anything open on the way.  The heavens opened and there was a thunderstorm just as I was leaving but there was no point in waiting, if I didn't get caught in that one I was sure to get caught later on! Walking was difficult, lots of water, lots of ups and downs and they all had streams running down them. I started reasonably well, but between the rain and the water and, possibly yesterday's walk, that was longer than I had anticipated, I got tired very quickly and found that I was getting slower.

The walk went through a village with some very grand houses!

At about 8km I went through a little village with a picnic table and benches, at that point the sun was shining so I was really pleased to have five minutes rest. I doubt that I had five minutes before it started raining again but at least I had had a little break. Then I was off again, getting slower and slower. I finally got to Soto de Luina at 13.30, much later than I had anticipated. It had taken me four and a half hours to do 15km!  

I had a beer and three 'tapitas', they were being very generous! I took off my jacket and my boots and I could really appreciate how wet they were, and how wet I was. Being a Sunday I had planned to have lunch in a restaurant in Novellana, but I was now realizing that it was becoming late, even for Spanish meal times. I read my notes and noticed that this was the point where I was supposed to descend to a stream and cross on stepping stones. I am really bad at this even when there is only a little water, I panic and freeze, there was no way that I could cross a raging torrent of flooded stream so I would have to stick to the road. This meant adding 3 km to the walk. I also realized that the 'ballotas' that were mentioned in my guide were repeats of the same thing. I had not taken this fact in previously, now I was staring to think seriously about continuing. I started walking again, mostly on the road though I did turn on to the camino for a little bit, this was not a good bit, I had to walk through a dark tunnel under the motorway, it was full of running water, I could see the moving but couldn't make out the best places to walk, out one point I trod in a deeper puddle, after that I went very slowly and I had a stupid fear of there being rats! Once I got back to the road I stayed there. It was 16.00 when I got to Novellana, too late for lunch but I had food for the evening and it was almost evening. The albergue in Novellana is at the old railway station and is one of the best I have ever stayed in, the owners are so welcoming and share their home and the facilities.

There was nearly a full house here; the Germans from last night, an Argentinian couple, a Bulgarian girl and 3 Spanish women, all pleasant company.  When I arrived I asked if trains actually stop here and they do. At 09.30 there should be a train to Ribadeo, just what I need. It did make the option of stopping a little too easy, I toyed with the idea of just skipping a day and getting the train to Canero but I went all the way. The weather was lovely of course, but this would not have reduced the surface water. 

It was a long day of journeying, it took more than 12 hours as I had a four hour wait in Lugo, I filled some of this time by having the lunch I hadn't had the day before. When I got home I saw the news, that I had not seen for several days, and discovered that the city of Ourense was going to be locked down. If I had returned on Thursday as planned I could have had problems, so all ended for the best.
 

Picking up where I left off! Back to Vigo

1st July 2020
Spain is returning to a kind of normality, normality with masks and social distancing but the albergues on the camino open up today so I am going to try again.
This time I will also be able to do the 'Variante Espiritual', I have checked and both albergues are open, so tomorrow off I go, hopefully all goes well.
Day1/3 Vigo to Redondela 16kms
I got to Vigo at 10.30 and started walking. The route is well signed. There was quite a bit of up to start with but then it got flat with some great views.

'wild' nasturtiums

Most of the walk was through woods and there was a cool breeze so it was really pleasant.

At about 10k there was supposed to be a bar, it was well signed right until I got there,  then there was a big sign saying 'CLOSE', this was really disappointing, then the next bar at 14k was closed as well. I was really glad to get into Redondela and to be able to stop for a beer and some Spanish omelette, then it was on to the albergue. I phoned yesterday, both here and to Pontevedra, Redondela didn't answer but first the line was engaged and the second time it was switched to Fax so I assumed someone was there. Pontevedra answered and assured me that they were open. Here I am at the albergue in Redondela and it is closed! This was something of a bummer, I had the name and number of another albergue but this was closed too. I was a bit desperate, ready to get out my credit card and find a hotel! I had seen signs for an albergue in Arcade 5kms further on, I didn't really want to walk another 5 k but it seemed to be the best option so I started walking but I had only gone a few metres when I found a private albergue which was open. It was more expensive than I wanted but beggars can't be choosers.  The hospitalera was very nervous as I was the first person to arrive in the 'new normality', she was getting used to masks and disinfectant etc. Also the Xunta has forbidden the use of kitchens, this is annoying as I am carrying my own equipment, weight I didn't need. However I bought myself a salad and had a picnic. 

I was not the only pilgrim here there were 2 Portuguese and 2 Dutch

Day 2/4 Redondela to Pontevedra 19.5kms

The 2 Dutch women arrived at the albergue after 8 and then went out for a meal, arriving back around midnight, they were very quiet about it but it was obvious that they would not want to be moving early in the morning. However, at some point in the night, I realised that as I had a code for the front door I could go out and have breakfast and then return to pack my bag, so when I woke at 06.20 I slipped out quietly and went for breakfast. When I returned the Portuguese girls were up, we all moved quietly and it was already daylight so we could see to pack up. I left about 07.20, it was a bit chilly first thing but it soon warmed up.

Leaving Redondela

I had completely forgotten most of the walk, almost all of it was through woods, which was just as well as there was wall to wall sunshine, but between the woods and the cool breeze it really wasn't bad.

Two Spanish pilgrims passed me, they were walking very fast but, between refreshment breaks and photo stops, we managed to cross paths a few times. It was nice to see other pilgrims occasionally.

There were some major constructions going on near Pontevedra and I found that the path at the end that entered via the river is now completely blocked, it is obligatory to enter on the road. One advantage of this is that there are bars during the last few kilometres, but I had found that there was a bar in Santa Marta, that was a nice surprise.
I got to the albergue at 12.50, not bad timing, I didn't have to wait long, when I got in I had to put my backpack in a black bin liner, I can't see the point of that except inconvenience, my boots went into plastic bags and I had my temperature taken, then I was allowed in. The dormitories have had the capacity greatly reduced and backpacks have to go on the plastic covering the top bunks.

The last time I was here the guy in the bed next to me rolled over in the night and landed on top of me, no danger of that happening now.
I asked about the albergues in Padron and Pontecesures but she had no idea, she didn't know that Redondela hadn't opened.
I fulfilled the dream I had been having the last couple of days, of returning to the bar opposite for a plate of calamar and a glass of Albarino, whilst I was there I saw 4 pilgrims pass but they all continued to walk into Pontevedra.
Then peace was interrupted by the arrival of the Press and I did a replay of my arrival for a TV channel!
Saturday, Day3/5 Pontevedra to Armenteira 21+kms
We all woke up early this morning so got up. I left about 06.40, quite sure that I would be able to get breakfast somewhere, I had overlooked the fact that it is Saturday, so no bars open, the Portuguese girls had brakfast in the albergue, very sensible!! It was supposed to be a 21k day but I don't know where they measure from, definitely not the albergue! I think that that would add another couple of kilometres.

The early part was flat, then there were some steepish bits up to Poio at about 10k, here I managed to get breakfast. From here it was very picturesque with sea views over to Gamberro, where I stopped for another coffee.

From here the steep climb started. It was good to see that it was not too far!

 It was tough work climbing but then there was 3 to 4k of open track with no shade and by then it was getting very hot.

The final descent into Armenteira was horrendous, very steep and stony, some boulders some just loose stones. I get very worried about falling and I was really happy to arrive and phone the hospitalera, then have a quick beer, this came with a tapa, chick peas and 'callos', which I believe is tripe but actually it was very tasty, though I left some of the difficult to recognize meaty bits. The bar was really busy, this being the weekend. The albergue is very nice, very modern and free this month, something to do with local politics and finance as the local council has just taken it over, I'm not sure who from.
I was not told that I could not use the kitchen, it only has a microwave but I managed to cook some pasta and made a pasta salad, I could also make a hot drink. There is a coffee machine as well.
Day 4/6 Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa 24kms
I had a very itchy night, I don't know if I have 'prickly heat' or whether something has bitten me, in the cool of the morning it seemed OK. I got up early and had breakfast in the albergue, but the coffee from these coffee machines is awful! I started walking at 07.00. The first part is 'La Ruta de Piedra y Agua'; the route of stones and water, it was a really lovely walk through woodlands with lots of old mills of various types, I could have done with this at the end of the day!  Most of the mills seemed to be for grinding but at least one was for sawing wood.

 At the end there were stepping stones to cross the river but the last one was missing, the gaps were too big for me to mange but, fortunately, a couple coming the other way gave me a hand over, very well timed. Then there was a bar but I really wanted to get to Pontearlas before I stopped. Even though it was Sunday I was sure that bars would be open by 10.00. The next part of the walk was along the banks of the river Umia.

When I got to Pontearlas I passed 3 bars and all were shut, in the end I sat on someone's wall, in the shade, and had a rest then about 10 minutes, up the road, I found a bar open, so I had a proper coffee, then I continued. Walking was not too bad, there was a bit of a hill and then a down, but by this time the sun was really hot, 31 degrees to day and very little shade.

The albergue in Vilanova doesn't open till 14.30 but this was OK as I am happy to eat out on a Sunday. I found a nice restaurant on the beach. Vilanova is the mussel capital of Galicia and the local wine is Albarino and is really delicious, so I stopped for lunch.
The albergue is attached to the Sports Hall but this is still closed so I had the place to myself. I managed to get some wine and I had some nibbles so I had a relaxing evening and another early night.
Day5/7 Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures 28++++kms
In an ideal world this stretch is down by boat down the river Ulla, in memory of the journey of St James but no boat for me, there are not enough pilgrims.  I got up very early, 05.00, had breakfast in the albergue and started off, an opportunity to see the full moon.

I had a torch with me but I didn't need it as there were street lights and it was not long before there was light from the sun. The route started well, well signed and along the seashore, the tide was full in and there was a very strong breeze.

After a while the tide dropped a bit and there were lots of people out digging the sand for, what I believe, are called 'clams' in English. It was a lovely walk, Vilagarcia de Arousa has a long promenade, but I was just beginning to think that maybe I would need to move up to the road if I wanted to find a bar open when I found one on the front. I got 2 small croissants, 3 small churros and a coffee, all for €1.10 and a view of the sea, unbelievable. I had only walked about 8kms but I had decided that it was better to stop whenever I found a bar, they are so unpredictable. It was now 08.30, I was making good progress. On I went to Carril, a lovely little village  and well signed.

From here the route moved inland and it became very different, the signs were really poor, totally invisible until you were standing on top of them, infrequent, often doing unnecessary detours and sometimes just not there. Once I was rescued by a council worker who pointed me in the right direction, which was across the road, the sign at that point was an arrow with a cross through it! I headed in the right direction but the path was really overgrown. Later another man pointed me the right way, then the path headed through dense undergrowth and back up to the road, no sign of any arrows but there was a bar, so I ditched my back pack and went on a recce. I found the arrow across the road and hidden by a parked van, that was fine I could now have another coffee. This one came with churros and a kind of slice of 'pain au chocolat' again only €1.10, prices are really unpredictable. At this point I was coping but it just got worse, in Catoira the arrows stopped completely. I went back to the main road and sat at a bus stop to think. I decided that if I could go to Pontecesures by boat I could do it by bus so I checked bus times, I had seen one earlier but now there didn't seem to be one, no train either and no sign of a taxi!! I opted to walk down to the train station, on the way I saw a tourist information board and indicators for a Passeo Fluvial (river walk), this was obviously the way to go. Once I got to the river walk I found arrows and all was well for a while. The walk was through woodland and was pleasantly cool.

The arrows were infrequent but that didn't matter as the track was obvious so I managed another few km without a problem. When I had to leave the track there was short distance with really good arrows.

Then the camino ran parallel to a railway line for a while, I was still managing reasonably well, the time was a bit late and it was getting very hot and there was no shade, but I still reckoned that I should get to the albergue about 2p.m. Then the road and the arrows lead off, I followed the arrows and came straight to a bar, it was after 2 but I reckoned I only had a couple of km to do. I had a beer and a tapa and started off for the last 2k, haha!! The arrows lead me into a large village, here they stopped completely. I walked 5 minutes in one direction, nothing, returned, tried another direction, nothing, there were no people to ask, the temperature was well in the 30's and I'd had enough. I wondered around for nearly half an hour till I found a road out, I walked down and found myself next to the same railway line as before and only 1 kilometre further on!  From here I got to the town and the main street but again no arrows and I didn't know which direction to go, then I was hailed by a gentleman and his 2 sons. It was now nearly 4, fortunately the Spanish eat late. I had really wanted to go straight to the albergue to rest and then buy some food later on, but apparently I had arrived on some kind of fiesta and the supermarket was closed for the day. The man, a fellow pilgrim, tried to persuade me to walk on to Padron, about another 3k, but he took me to the restaurant that they had just eaten at and explained how to get to the albergue. I had half a lunch at the restaurant and carried the rest away with me for the evening.
Time for a good relax. At 8.30p.m the family decided to go out for dinner and asked me to let them in if they didn't get back till after 10; they guy couldn't understand when I said that I would be asleep by then!!
Last day: Pontecesures to Santiago
Up early and off at 06.30. The first mojon I saw said 28.8 km to Santiago, great! The walk started next to a river.

It was pleasant up to Padron, this was very quiet, the last time I was here there had been a market and the place was heaving, today I actually got to see it a bit.

I found a bar open and stopped for breakfast. Then on my way, I soon discovered that the camino was a lot longer than the journey by road. I was still really tired from the previous day and I was keen to get to Santiago in time to get a bus home so I did a little bit of camino and quite a lot of road. The camino was well signed, this being the 'proper' camino. I took a photo of the church in Escravitude but apart from that I just walked.

And then I went home, exhausted!