Week 2 - cont'd

Day 11, Merida to Aljucen 15kms
A strange night. I had chosen to sleep by the door, something I don't usually do, but because I am wanting to start early and walk whilst it's cool it seemed a good idea to be able to get out quietly. I went to bed early because it was warmer in bed than out. The albergue was supposed to close at 9 but at 9 most were still out. We had been joined by 2 Spanish cyclists, they were the last ones back and they continued to wander around, eventually they put out the light (apparently Kirsten asked them to because the rest of us were in bed), about 10 someone new arrived, with the ensueing opening and shutting of the door. Then there were all the trips to the loo, then one guy went back to the wrong bunk, to the surprise of the guy who was sleeping there, altogether something of a pantomime. I don't know who the new guy was, except that he was a friend of the Spaniards, he wasn't a cyclist and we didn't see him again!

I got up about 7, had a cup of Manzanilla and a rice pudding and set off about 7.30. we were supposed to leave by a Roman brige but the arrows sent us over a modern bridge, I felt a bit deprived, but not sufficiently so to want to return and continue to the 'right' bridge.

The walk was lovely, there were a few bits on roads but mostly around a lake and through countryside.

The lake was formed by the Romans, a huge Roman dam and there was evidence of the waterworks which lead the water, via the aqueduct, to Merida.

From here it was along road and then across parkland again, Holm Oak, dry grass and Asphodel. I saw lots of rabbits, I kept telling them today is Sunday and that they should go and hide, but they took no notice.

I had started too early to find any of the bars around the lake open so I was reckoning on finding a coffee in the bar in El Cascarrelejo, but when I got there there was no bar.

Church in El Cascarralejo

Signs around El Cascarralejo

I continued on to Aljucen, the albergue took a bit of finding, I was thinking of going into the bar to ask but, rather stupidly I didn't. My guide book, which seems mostly wrong, told me to get the key from the Casa Rural but when I found that she sent me back up to the Albergue. the hospitalera mostly lives there now, she is doing the place up. When I got there she was still cleaning but she let me drop of my bag and boots and then I toddled off happily to the bar.

I had lunch at the bar and saw the hunters return, they had a fox tied to the bonnet. At first it seemed that it was going to be only me and the Dutch couple, the Germans seemed to have got lost, they hadn't intended to go on so I wandered what had happened but eventually they arrived, they had been dithering around at the entrance to the village and were invited in to the Roman baths. Ulie had had a massage and was in 7th heaven. It was a lovely afternoon, a bit windy but the sun shone, it was perfect drying weather. The Albergue is kind of homely, very nice.

The butane heater was put on in the afternoon, at the instigation of the Dutch I think, it got very stuffy indoors. I made myself some soup for tea and then Elena offered to show us around the church.
Then 2 more people arrived, 1 German and 1 Dutch, everyone was talking German and the sitting room was stuffy so I went to bed.

Day 12, Aljucen to Alcuescar 20kms.
I ended up having a room to myself as Kirsten and Ulie played musical beds, Ulie slept in the sitting room on the couch as she had a cough and Kirsten slept in the room she had been in, with the window open as she felt claustrophobic.
I go up at 6.30, had breakfast in the bar and started walking at 7.30. It was a chilly start but soon warmed up but never got hot. The temperatures all over Spain have dropped a lot. There was wall to wall sunshine but a cool breeze. It was the first day I wore my fleece all day.

It was a lovely walk through parkland, then scrub with lots of lavender plants.

I really enjoy walking early in the morning, strange for someone who can't be convinced to get up before 9 or 10 at home. At the moment it is daylight shortly after 7 but the clocks go forward at the weekend, so this will change.

I had a reflective day today, the Dutch woman has been annoying me intensely, I felt a strong desire to hit her the other day, needless to say I refrained. Today I realised why, she reacted to something I said in a way my mother did sometimes, my mother had dementia at the time so she had an excuse but now I know why she annoys me I won't let it worry me, I'll try and be nice! It's not her fault she reminds me of my mother.

I got to the albergue at Alcuescar first and got a room to myself, I have been very lucky. The albergue is part of a Religious house run by an Order who care for the poor and the disabled. they also provide a dinner for the pilgrims. It is donativo.

Yesterday Jurgen commented on the short days, how he would not normally stop at 15kms, I agreed, I would not normally stop at 11am either. I think it is because of the initial heat but also because there is nowhere to stop and rest properly. This camino is very different from ones I have done previously, though looking back I haven't done that many short days and I do seem to have done them on Sundays, or the walk into Merida, which I wanted to be short becaue I wanted the time to look around. I decided that I would attempt the walk into Caceres from Alcuescar, 38kms.

Before dinner we were shown around and explained the work of the Order, then we had dinner. I had asked the hospitaleros if I could sit near them, so I had someone to talk to, but it was not so German dominated. We were 16, we had been joined by the people from the day after us as they were stronger walkers and had not stopped at Aljucen. It was a more cosmopolitan mix, including a New Zealand lad who's at Columbia university but doing an exchange at Oxford.

The albergue was altogether lovely but very cold. I went to bed almost fully dressed again even though I had a blanket. I had spent some of my winter evenings knitting leg warmers and I was very grateful to have them with me, they are great at night as my legs often ache and need the extra warmth.

Day 13, Alcuescar to Valdesalor 26 +4 kms
I got up early, mostly because I was awake. I had bought some orange juice and a chocolate mousse effort for breakfast, as I wasn't sure what would be open, but the bar opposite the hotel opened at 6am, so I could have had a proper breakfast.

I left before 7, just as the hospitalero was unlocking the front door. I thought that the key for the 'albergue' in Valdesalor would need to be picked up from the Ayuntamiento so I wanted to get there before 2.30. Overnight I had decided that I was unlikely to make it to Caceres in one day.

The camino was easy to find, it was almost daylight and I could see the arrows without any problem, I saw several and then got carried away with enthusiasm. The joy of walking in the early morning and the joy of going home and not having to do it anymore!! I kept following the path and didn't think about arrows. I was walking well and thinking how well I was doing, till I came to a road and there were no arrows. My book said I should cross a road so that didn't appear to be a problem but there was nothing on the other side and no arrows anywhere. I had to walk back, and walk back! I had walked a good 20 minutes in the wrong direction, I ended up walking almost all the way back to Alcuescar, I got to the turn I had missed just as the Dutch couple got there, so I was just ahead of them, so I speeded up a bit, only to hear a yell, I had missed another turn! I decided to take this as a lesson, I slowed down and decided to just take it as it came.

Roman bridge and Casas de Don Antonio

I was very much looking forward to my coffee in Casas de Don Antonio, when I got there I went up into the village and met the German girls, who said they thought there wasn't a bar, my book said there was, I didn't believe my book but I went to look anyway. There was a bar but it was closed! So it was just a rest in the square, I had plenty of food and water but I really wanted that coffee!. On the way out of the village we passed a Night Club, situated right next to the Old People's Home, I bet they love that, there was also a bar on the main road but that was closed as well. What a strange village, it had a Town Hall and a Night Club but no bars open. So we had another 7kms to Aldea de Cano, we were now walking not quite in a group but almost, There were 8 of us visible to each other.

Between Casas de Don Antonio and Valdesalor there were many visible roman signs, miliario, excavations and bridges.

At Aldea del Cano I turned off with the Germans, there were no signs to the village or the albergue but we could see the village from the camino so we took a gamble. We found a bar and had a good rest and a loo break, there were very few opportunities to do this, I totaled it and we had had only 5 proper coffee and loo breaks!

Kirsten decided to stay at the Albergue here, she wasn't feeling too good and hadn't been sleeping, a French lady was staying here too. The albergue is very nice, it has obviously just been refurbished and has a new kitchen and bathroom. The bunks were good and there were plenty of covers but they were just thrown together in heaps on a couple of beds. My original plan had been to stay here but I preferred to walk a bit further. The rest of us carried on, it was very windy, a head on wind, and the path was sandy so we occasionally had mini sand storms.

The last 11 kms were heavy going but we finally arrived. Jurgen went straight into the Pensioner's Bar, Ulie said he was going to find out where the Sports Centre was, as his Spanish is almost nonexistant I followed him. We got the key to the Refugio and instructions of how to get there. This really is a Refugio but it is clean and the exercise mats are clean. It is the changing rooms for the football pitch so there are plenty of toilets and showers.


The others decided that it was too cold. Ulie went off to look for alternative accommodation, she had the idea that there was some kind of hostal at the petrol station, but there wasn't. Whilst she was gone Kirsten appeared, she had decided that the Albergue in Aldea del Cano was too cold so she came on to get a bus into Caceres. She had got a key to the Refugio from another bar, seems like they all have keys! I went off to get food and left them deciding what to do. Jurgen had originally felt he needed to stay, rather than leave me on my own, I think this had something to do with 2 Italians who had been having lunch at the bar. He needn't have worried the Italians were interested in Ulie and Kirsten, not me. Any way Kirsten assured him that the Italians had gone on. As I finished my lunch and was leaving the bar they all turned up, they were going to get a bus, until the barman told them the buses were at 3.30 and 8.30pm, they had missed the 3.30, so they opted for a taxi. We were all standing in the street, the barman phoning a taxi, when the French lady arrived, so she joined them in the taxi.

I returned to my peaceful refugio, I had a semi-shower, in cold water, washed my clothes and hung them on my clothes line and went off to find the shop. I bought some wine and sat in the sun outside the refugio. Someone had left a copy of' 'Our Mutual Friend' in the refugio, it is a heavy book so I can't see why anyone would be inclined to carry it but it was there and in English.

It was warmer than in Alcuescar, I slept on all the mats and wore lots of clothes. another occasion for going to bed in my fleece with my leggings and leg warmers! I decided I would just get up whenever and be in Caceres for breakfast.

Day 14, Valdesalor to Caceres 11kms
I spent a pleasant, tranquil evening at Valdesalor, with a bottle of wine, nuts and 'Our Mutual Friend'. There was no wind where I was sitting and it faced full west, so I sat there till the sun went down. Then I went to bed and read for a while but I decided that I may as well settle down to sleep. There were some funny squeeky noises, from the plumbing I think, so I put my earplugs in, the first time I had used them. I slept fairly well, it was not too cold.

I got up about 6 and set off as soon as I was ready, it was still dark, the first time I started in the dark. I draped my reflective jacket around me and had my torch, though my torch is weak, I normally only use it for checking the time when I wake during the night. Fortunately there was enough light from streetlamps, initially, and then the sun started to come up. I had no problem seeing the signs though I did have a bit of a panic and retrace my steps, the signs had led up onto a bridge over the road and then I thought I was walking next to the motorway, not the Nacional. There were no signs and there was no way I wanted to repeat the mistake of yesterday so I went back to look but I was right so I carried on and eventually got to some more signs. After that it was well signed. It was not an interesting walk and I found it very heavy going, each step was an effort. (When I passed in the bus the army was out exercising, that might have made the walk more interesting but I was too early!)

Usually I take an Ibruprofen tablet in the morning, when I walk, but I didn't, I thought that for 11 kms it was not necessary but I could certainly feel a difference, also I had only eaten a pear, I had had no real breakfast.
The walk was not too long because the 11 kms are probably measured from the Cathedral or something, it is probably only 8 or 9 into town. I soon found a nice bar and had breakfast, I felt better after that. The signs were a bit hit and miss, eventually I lost them completely so I just headed up into the old town and the Plaza Mayor. I got some maps from the Tourist Information Office and found a hostel. The Hostal La Valleta, which is usually recommended was full, but I was planning on going to El Cesar anyway, it is just a bit further up the road. I had a nice room with TV, so I dropped of my back pack and went to look around the old town. One thing about this Camino is that one seems to be able to check into accommodation at anytime, I got this room about 9.30!
As soon as I got into the old town I saw Jurgen, he had been having a quick look and was then going on to Casar de Caceres, it was nice to have an opportunity to say good-bye.
I had a wander around, it is a really interesting town. I got a sello from the Bishop's house, which kind of signs off this camino. Then I went back to the Hostal to get rid of my boots and have a warm shower and change my clothes, then I went for lunch. I decided to have a 'Menu del dia' so I wouldn't need to eat later, I also had it on the Plaza Mayor, I was feeling kind of holidayish. Whilst I was eating Ulie arrived and then Kirsten. Kirsten is feeling better, she had a good nights sleep last night. They were in a Pension on the Plaza Mayor, also for €15.
After lunch I went for a siesta, my feet were really hurting and needed a good rest. I planned to go out again later but when I woke up I felt so lazy I just stayed where I was.

My first attack at the Via de la Plata is over. It is a beautiful route, through lovely countryside and interesting cities. It is hard work, long stretches with no shade and difficult to get breaks. It is certainly the most difficult camino that I have done, but then I haven't crossed the Pyrenees yet!
Pictures of Caceres

Thursday, 22nd March
No more camino! After yesterdays rest I now feel fit and could continue, a good lesson in the power of rest, and the need to rest, especially for old ladies! Overnight I decided that it would be a good idea to go to the bus station earlyish, just in case the time of the bus has changed or there are lots of people travelling. I forced myself to stay in bed as long as possible but was still up before 7.30. Ulie had said it was only about 20 minutes to the bus station, but she had not been carrying a back pack, I found it took me longer, just as well really as the ALSA desk did not open until 9.30. I had breakfast in the bus station and watched telly until nearly 9.30. I bought my ticket, no changes and then went to the library to see if I could use the internet for a while, they allowed me 30 minutes, which was fine as I was not sure I had time for a full hour, then back to the bus. On the way back I met Kirsten, she had been to buy tickets for her mother, who comes over to walk with her for Holy Week. Kirsten had stayed a second night in Caceres to catch some well needed rest, now she was on her way to Casar de Caceres.

Whilst I was in the bus station 2 people came up to me and asked if I were a peregrina and congratulated me!

The bus followed the same route that I had walked, it took 10 minutes to Valdesalor, then we went on the motorway, 1 hour to Merida! Then back on the Nacional, we stopped at: Almendralejo; Vilafranca; Zafra; Calzadillas; Fuente de Canos and Monasterio. it is strange how different, and how much bigger often, the villages looked when you come in from the main road.

I noticed that the Albergue in Fuente de Cantos was well signed from the Nacional!

I saw no pilgrims, hardly surprising as the motorway is a good distance from the camino, but I thought we might have seen someone from the Nacional as we passed Aldea de Cano at roughly the same time as we were walking yesterday. They showed films on the bus, mostly I was too far away to see and had no ear phones but they showed a Buster Keaton silent movie, that's the kind of movie they should show on buses, but as the writing was all in English I doubt most people got full value.
Once in Seville I had thought of doing the walking tour, as they leave from near the Cathedral at 4.30, but when I arrived at the hotel I was definitely having 'senior moments'. She gave me my key but I didn't really notice, so when I picked up my passport I picked up the key that was on the desk next to it, oblivious to the fact that I now had a key in each hand, the key number I could see didn't tally with the instructions I had been given so I went back, there was a general air of impatience with 'silly old English women'. I hate being patronised!
I decided that it would be a good idea to find the way to the airport bus, just as well I did because it took me a long time, although it was not very far. Then I wondered around the area I was in, the old 'Jewish quarter' of Seville, an area I had not seen before. Then I was going to have a peaceful evening in the hotel and watch TV but my room had no TV, I can't remember when I last had a hotel room without a TV, something to watch out for next time, but as I had to get up at 04.00 perhaps it didn't matter. I had a snack and spent some time organising my bag and had an early night.

Friday, 23rd March

Up at 4am and off for the 5am bus. I hadn't slept well anyway, it didn't take long to get to the bus stop, having finally got it clear in my head where this is. I got there just in time to see the 4.30 bus leaving, still I had plenty of time! I had it in my head that my flight was at 6.55, when I got to the airport I discovered that it was at 6.35! there was a long queue for the security check so I had no time for breakfast. I had coffee on the plane and breakfast in Santiago. I left my back pack at the Pilgrim's Office and wandered about, I went to the Pilgrim's Mass and the Botifumeiro flew!!!! Eventually I went to the bus station and got the bus to Ourense and then the bus home, I wish there was a bus before 6pm, I was very tired and looking forward to a bath and bed.
I saw a bus for Salamanca in Santiago, I am already planning the next instalment.

Week 2

Day 8 Zafra to Vilafranca de los Barros 20 kms
I had a good nights sleep in Zafra, sleeping with sheets and a duvet! Unfortunately I was concerned about not oversleeping, when I arrived (Yes Ling, first!) the hospitalero said breakfast at 8, so I said 'No thanks' as I find it so difficult walking in the heat, so he said he would serve breakfast at 07.00. After an offer like that I really had to be up on time!
I managed to get up, as did we all. Had breakfast and left at 07.30, to find clouds, the first cloudy day we have had, it makes such a difference, it is still warm but without the constant sun.

The walk was mostly, almost all, on gravelly, stoney paths, some on paths which would have been mud, had it rained. Mostly we walked through olive trees and vineyards, just occasionally with almond trees.

I stopped for coffee in Santos de Maimona, which was supposed to be 5kms from Zafra, according to my guide book, but I have decided my guide book is crap - it is only useful for the profiles. If I come back to do the rest I'll use Eroski, though they aren't perfect.

There is an old 'Olive Oil Mill' - Almazara - which was turned into an albergue but it is closed, the signs were still there and looking very fresh but the albergue is definitely closed.
Vilafranca is bigger than I expected. I stopped to look at a map as I came into town and a woman stopped to help me. She got out of her car to point me in the right direction for the hostal but she forgot to put her hand brake on properly, her car started to run backwards down the hill! I found the hostel, it was easy, just following the shells and suddenly it was there. Today I have noticed that we are back to having the shell tiles as a sign and they are facing the right way, not like in Andalucia! I am staying in Hostal Perin, there being no albergue, it's €18 but I have a room to myself, my own bathroom, my own fridge and microwave and my own TV. There's a kitchen, drying area, outside seating area and computer/internet. Finding a grocery shop seems to be problematic, I walked all the way around and found only a very small one, there is a big market but I was too late to go in. I managed to get enough food and something for breakfast.

Day 9. Vilafranca de los Barros to Torremejia 27kms.
I spent yesterday evening watching TV with a bottle of wine and nibbles. I felt very decadent. I really didn't want to get up this morning but I heard Nemo leave at 06.50 and decided that as I had caused the poor hospitalero in Zafra to get breakfast at 07.00 I really should make an effort. I had contemplated looking for a bar for breakfast but I decided to make a cup of tea and eat the sandwich I had made yesterday. I looked outside and there were clouds again, then just as I left the hostel it started raining. I have not seen a weather forecast for several days, I had tried this morning but the TV only seemed to be tuned into rubbish programmes so I couldn't get the news.
The rain started out very light but it soon got heavier and I had to stop and put my waterproof on. As usual the rain eased off at once, but this was a false lull and it got heavier again. Vilafranca de los Barros= Vilafranca of the mud and it was. The mud became very gloopy, it stuck to the boots and my feet kept getting heavy and I had to stop to clear some of the mud off. It rained like this for about the first 10kms and the path was all mud, miles and miles of path, through miles and miles of vineyards. As it stopped raining I saw a Range Rover approaching the camino and Nemo got out. Somehow he had got lost, it was well signed so I don't know how. Isn't it just typical, when I get lost I have to retrace my steps, I'm sure if I were ever to offered a lift it would be in a tractor, but he got a Range Rover!?
I tried to stop regularly and have a break but it was difficult, there was no shade from the rain as there had been no shade from the sun. I did find some stones after a while and managed to have a few minutes rest and divest myself of my rain gear, by this time the sun was shining prety well, as I was resting the 'Potsdamers' appeared, they had spent the night in Almendralejo, they took the bus there from Vilafranca, and they had waited until it stopped raining to start walking.





The path seemed to go on forever and just when we were nearly at Torremejia they made the path longer, we had to cross a railway line, but first we had to walk along way along the edge, then there was a bridge under, but when I looked at the other side it seemed all overgrown, a cyclist had got a little ahead of me and he had looked and then cycled on to a bridge further ahead, so I followed. There were signs near the bridge, one seemed to indicate a path and then a scramble up a steep bank, the alternative was to walk even further and then take the road, which was also signed. I took that option and walked into Torremejia, once I crossed the bridge there were no more signs, I lost sight of the people who had been near me, I think they went under the railway, I headed along the road which seemed to lead around the town, on the principle that I would see a sign somewhere, but I didn't, eventually I got to the main road and asked someone for directions and got to the Albergue.

Recycling in Torremejia!

It is another of the Junta albergues in an old palace, opposite the church, a very small church by the normal standards!

When I arrived atTorremejia there was one man there already, a Pole who had been at Guillena the night before us.

I washed my clothes, cleaned my boots and headed into town, it was already too late to shop so I looked for a bar. I saw Nemo, just heading out of town, then I saw the 'Potsdamers', they are staying in the hotel, we have very limited conversations, limited by a language barrier, so I couldn't ask them about coming under the railway. I wasn't sorry to see Nemo leave, not that he was any problem but he seemed to be patronising me today, just to add to the fact that he annoyed me generally. I sat outside a bar and had a drink and a tapa, whilst was there 2 Australians came passed, they had only walked from Almendralejo and were also walking on to Merida, we had a few minutes chat, it was nice to speak English!
Later I got directions to the Casa de la Cultura and had some time on a computer, then I had tea and watched some news on the TV in the sitting room.

Day 10 - Torremejia to Merida, 16kms

I had asked for breakfast at 7.30 so I got up at 7. The Dutch couple were waffling around, which is unusual, they usually get up later, but the light was on in there room, I think they had been out-numbered. My room was still dark, I had moved my gear out onto the landing. At 7.15 they went down for breakfast and came back moaning that the hospitalero was not there yet. I pointed out that he had said 7.30 but they weren't happy. At 7.20 I went down and put the TV on and sat quietly. We were promised another day of sun, but it looks like Galicia may get rain, or even snow!

The hospitalero arrived on the dot of 7.30, the Dutch man was pacing around like a caged bear, I moved to the breakfast bar and sat quietly and was served first, then a French couple who had appeared and then the Dutch, I think thy must have annoyed the hospitalero too!

I left at 7.55, the Camino started mainly on the road, I walked 3 kms before I saw proper markings. At that point the road signs said 13kms to Merida, which would make it 16kms, as my guide book says, but a km further on the sign led off the road and there was a small sign saying: 4kms to Torremejia; 8 to Merida, I reckon that makes 12! The second half of the walk was away from the road and through countryside, it was very pleasant.

I got to Merida at 11 so it probably was 12 kms. You go in over the longest Roman bridge I have ever seen.

The first person I saw was Nemo, he is staying here an extra day, or maybe more, apparently he also wants to visit Badajoz. We never saw him again.



I went straight to the Albergue, which is pretty basic, the kitchen has a sink, fridge and microwave but almost no plates or cutlery.










I have seen so many sheep and goats around that I was really dreaming of lamb chops for tea, instead I had chick-pea salad, not exciting but adequate.

Once I had ditched my back-pack I went out to see the sites. I decided it was best to wear my boots for most of the walking. I managed to see quite a bit, which was as well as most close from 14.45 to 16.45, only the Theatre and Ampitheatre are open all day, although I didn't find that out until after I had been there. I started to notice that I was getting tetchy, impatient with people standing in my way, taking photos. I had been drinking water and eating chocolate and even had a coffee but obviously my blood sugar was going down:( I sat down at a bar and tried to attract a waiter, he totally ignored me, then a waitress came past, she even served the people at the next table but she ignored me. By the time I had sat there for 5 minutes and been ignored by 3 waiters/waitresses I said 'stuff it' and left. I carried on down the road and found myself in the Plaza de Espana, with lots of bars, so I tried again and got served instantly. Whats more I'm sure the Plaza de Espana was a much nicer place to sit than the street that I had been in first. After 2 beers and a sandwich I returned to the Albergue, I found it had been filling up in my absence, though most were out visiting Merida.

I showered and sat in the sun. The albergue has a nice site by the river, I suppose that makes sense, given that it was a mill! It is very open to the public as people keep passing to gt to the river walks. Once the sites were open for the afternoon I went to the Alcazar, I walked along the river, it was lovely. I had a €6 ticket (pensioners) with entrance for 7 sites, I got to see 5, so that was OK and there were a few that were free. I had my chick-pea salad and sat outside a bit longer, then it got chilly, there are very few chairs, not enough for everyone. We had a bit of a discussion on where people are planning to go over the next few nights. There is some discrepancy over how many mattresses there are at Valdesalor, we seem to be 9 again!

Pictures of Merida