Week 2

Day 8 Zafra to Vilafranca de los Barros 20 kms
I had a good nights sleep in Zafra, sleeping with sheets and a duvet! Unfortunately I was concerned about not oversleeping, when I arrived (Yes Ling, first!) the hospitalero said breakfast at 8, so I said 'No thanks' as I find it so difficult walking in the heat, so he said he would serve breakfast at 07.00. After an offer like that I really had to be up on time!
I managed to get up, as did we all. Had breakfast and left at 07.30, to find clouds, the first cloudy day we have had, it makes such a difference, it is still warm but without the constant sun.

The walk was mostly, almost all, on gravelly, stoney paths, some on paths which would have been mud, had it rained. Mostly we walked through olive trees and vineyards, just occasionally with almond trees.

I stopped for coffee in Santos de Maimona, which was supposed to be 5kms from Zafra, according to my guide book, but I have decided my guide book is crap - it is only useful for the profiles. If I come back to do the rest I'll use Eroski, though they aren't perfect.

There is an old 'Olive Oil Mill' - Almazara - which was turned into an albergue but it is closed, the signs were still there and looking very fresh but the albergue is definitely closed.
Vilafranca is bigger than I expected. I stopped to look at a map as I came into town and a woman stopped to help me. She got out of her car to point me in the right direction for the hostal but she forgot to put her hand brake on properly, her car started to run backwards down the hill! I found the hostel, it was easy, just following the shells and suddenly it was there. Today I have noticed that we are back to having the shell tiles as a sign and they are facing the right way, not like in Andalucia! I am staying in Hostal Perin, there being no albergue, it's €18 but I have a room to myself, my own bathroom, my own fridge and microwave and my own TV. There's a kitchen, drying area, outside seating area and computer/internet. Finding a grocery shop seems to be problematic, I walked all the way around and found only a very small one, there is a big market but I was too late to go in. I managed to get enough food and something for breakfast.

Day 9. Vilafranca de los Barros to Torremejia 27kms.
I spent yesterday evening watching TV with a bottle of wine and nibbles. I felt very decadent. I really didn't want to get up this morning but I heard Nemo leave at 06.50 and decided that as I had caused the poor hospitalero in Zafra to get breakfast at 07.00 I really should make an effort. I had contemplated looking for a bar for breakfast but I decided to make a cup of tea and eat the sandwich I had made yesterday. I looked outside and there were clouds again, then just as I left the hostel it started raining. I have not seen a weather forecast for several days, I had tried this morning but the TV only seemed to be tuned into rubbish programmes so I couldn't get the news.
The rain started out very light but it soon got heavier and I had to stop and put my waterproof on. As usual the rain eased off at once, but this was a false lull and it got heavier again. Vilafranca de los Barros= Vilafranca of the mud and it was. The mud became very gloopy, it stuck to the boots and my feet kept getting heavy and I had to stop to clear some of the mud off. It rained like this for about the first 10kms and the path was all mud, miles and miles of path, through miles and miles of vineyards. As it stopped raining I saw a Range Rover approaching the camino and Nemo got out. Somehow he had got lost, it was well signed so I don't know how. Isn't it just typical, when I get lost I have to retrace my steps, I'm sure if I were ever to offered a lift it would be in a tractor, but he got a Range Rover!?
I tried to stop regularly and have a break but it was difficult, there was no shade from the rain as there had been no shade from the sun. I did find some stones after a while and managed to have a few minutes rest and divest myself of my rain gear, by this time the sun was shining prety well, as I was resting the 'Potsdamers' appeared, they had spent the night in Almendralejo, they took the bus there from Vilafranca, and they had waited until it stopped raining to start walking.





The path seemed to go on forever and just when we were nearly at Torremejia they made the path longer, we had to cross a railway line, but first we had to walk along way along the edge, then there was a bridge under, but when I looked at the other side it seemed all overgrown, a cyclist had got a little ahead of me and he had looked and then cycled on to a bridge further ahead, so I followed. There were signs near the bridge, one seemed to indicate a path and then a scramble up a steep bank, the alternative was to walk even further and then take the road, which was also signed. I took that option and walked into Torremejia, once I crossed the bridge there were no more signs, I lost sight of the people who had been near me, I think they went under the railway, I headed along the road which seemed to lead around the town, on the principle that I would see a sign somewhere, but I didn't, eventually I got to the main road and asked someone for directions and got to the Albergue.

Recycling in Torremejia!

It is another of the Junta albergues in an old palace, opposite the church, a very small church by the normal standards!

When I arrived atTorremejia there was one man there already, a Pole who had been at Guillena the night before us.

I washed my clothes, cleaned my boots and headed into town, it was already too late to shop so I looked for a bar. I saw Nemo, just heading out of town, then I saw the 'Potsdamers', they are staying in the hotel, we have very limited conversations, limited by a language barrier, so I couldn't ask them about coming under the railway. I wasn't sorry to see Nemo leave, not that he was any problem but he seemed to be patronising me today, just to add to the fact that he annoyed me generally. I sat outside a bar and had a drink and a tapa, whilst was there 2 Australians came passed, they had only walked from Almendralejo and were also walking on to Merida, we had a few minutes chat, it was nice to speak English!
Later I got directions to the Casa de la Cultura and had some time on a computer, then I had tea and watched some news on the TV in the sitting room.

Day 10 - Torremejia to Merida, 16kms

I had asked for breakfast at 7.30 so I got up at 7. The Dutch couple were waffling around, which is unusual, they usually get up later, but the light was on in there room, I think they had been out-numbered. My room was still dark, I had moved my gear out onto the landing. At 7.15 they went down for breakfast and came back moaning that the hospitalero was not there yet. I pointed out that he had said 7.30 but they weren't happy. At 7.20 I went down and put the TV on and sat quietly. We were promised another day of sun, but it looks like Galicia may get rain, or even snow!

The hospitalero arrived on the dot of 7.30, the Dutch man was pacing around like a caged bear, I moved to the breakfast bar and sat quietly and was served first, then a French couple who had appeared and then the Dutch, I think thy must have annoyed the hospitalero too!

I left at 7.55, the Camino started mainly on the road, I walked 3 kms before I saw proper markings. At that point the road signs said 13kms to Merida, which would make it 16kms, as my guide book says, but a km further on the sign led off the road and there was a small sign saying: 4kms to Torremejia; 8 to Merida, I reckon that makes 12! The second half of the walk was away from the road and through countryside, it was very pleasant.

I got to Merida at 11 so it probably was 12 kms. You go in over the longest Roman bridge I have ever seen.

The first person I saw was Nemo, he is staying here an extra day, or maybe more, apparently he also wants to visit Badajoz. We never saw him again.



I went straight to the Albergue, which is pretty basic, the kitchen has a sink, fridge and microwave but almost no plates or cutlery.










I have seen so many sheep and goats around that I was really dreaming of lamb chops for tea, instead I had chick-pea salad, not exciting but adequate.

Once I had ditched my back-pack I went out to see the sites. I decided it was best to wear my boots for most of the walking. I managed to see quite a bit, which was as well as most close from 14.45 to 16.45, only the Theatre and Ampitheatre are open all day, although I didn't find that out until after I had been there. I started to notice that I was getting tetchy, impatient with people standing in my way, taking photos. I had been drinking water and eating chocolate and even had a coffee but obviously my blood sugar was going down:( I sat down at a bar and tried to attract a waiter, he totally ignored me, then a waitress came past, she even served the people at the next table but she ignored me. By the time I had sat there for 5 minutes and been ignored by 3 waiters/waitresses I said 'stuff it' and left. I carried on down the road and found myself in the Plaza de Espana, with lots of bars, so I tried again and got served instantly. Whats more I'm sure the Plaza de Espana was a much nicer place to sit than the street that I had been in first. After 2 beers and a sandwich I returned to the Albergue, I found it had been filling up in my absence, though most were out visiting Merida.

I showered and sat in the sun. The albergue has a nice site by the river, I suppose that makes sense, given that it was a mill! It is very open to the public as people keep passing to gt to the river walks. Once the sites were open for the afternoon I went to the Alcazar, I walked along the river, it was lovely. I had a €6 ticket (pensioners) with entrance for 7 sites, I got to see 5, so that was OK and there were a few that were free. I had my chick-pea salad and sat outside a bit longer, then it got chilly, there are very few chairs, not enough for everyone. We had a bit of a discussion on where people are planning to go over the next few nights. There is some discrepancy over how many mattresses there are at Valdesalor, we seem to be 9 again!

Pictures of Merida