Tuesday, March 17, 2020

Caminoing again!! Portuguese coastal route from Baiona

A couple of weeks ago I suddenly got the urge to camino again! I am not wanting to walk a long way and due to the current epidemic of COVID-19 I am not wanting to do anything too stupid so I will stay in Galicia. I gave it a bit of thought and decided that the Variante Espiritual would be nice but, unfortunately, the albergues don't open till Holy Week so I am opting to start on the coastal and just walk for a week. The albergues are well placed and I won't have to do any long days, so my bag is packed and tomorrow I'm off, an early start to Ourense and a bus to Vigo.
Thursday, March 12th - Day 1 - to A Ramallosa
An early start, breakfast at the bus station and then a bus drive from Ourense to Vigo. I have done this journey before and I am sure that we have always gone straight up the motorway but today it was half motorway and half through small towns that I know the names of but have never visited before, it was very interesting. A second coffee in Vigo and then a bus to Baiona, a quick journey to cover the journey that will take all day tomorrow. Baiona is lovely, I have wanted to visit for a while.




I went straight to the Town Hall to get my credencial stamped and then did a bit of a tourist thing, this included going to a smart restaurant on the front for something to eat. It was far too early for lunch in Spain but there was a board outside saying that they did 'tapas' so I opted for squid and Padron peppers and a glass of white wine. The tapas were enormous, more like 'raciones', so with the addition of some bread I had a well balanced lunch, this came complete with 'floor show'. When I arrived there was a group of Civil Guard and local policemen, I thought something special must be happening but I approached them to ask for directions to the Town Hall, they were very keen for me to step to one-side, whilst I had lunch I realised that the centre of attention was an old tramp, I suspect that there was a suspicion that he was unwell, ???coronavirus.  They didn't seem to be too concerned but obviously I fall into the danger age. Whilst I ate an ambulance arrived and the tramp was, rather unwillingly, taken off on a stretcher.
After my delicious lunch I started my walk, it was only meant to be 4.5kms but it was longer as I lost my guide and had to retrace my steps.




It was hot and, for a coastal path there were too many ups and downs, but it was picturesque.

The 'albergue' in A Ramallosa is private and fairly expensive, but I have a private room and there is a microwave and a drying area outside, so not too bad and I am alone. I met another pilgrim in Baiona, she was looking for somewhere to eat, but being Vegan, she was heading for trouble in Galicia, she seems to be doing long stages so maybe she will get to Vigo and find somewhere to eat. 
Day 2 - A Ramallosa to Vigo 20.5kms
Another lovely day and very pleasant walking in the morning.

I opted for the coastal route, it was well signed with yellow and green arrows, it was almost all on decent paths and only one beach, Praia das Canas, required a climb down onto the beach itself, this was dodgy as I am not nimble at all. At one point I was stuck on a wet rock and had to take off my back pack and chuck it as far as I could, which was not far, but I was then able to move and climb off the rock and collect my bag again.


Church of San Xoan de Panxon


Good question

Being March most of the bars are closed but I managed a coffee and each beach had a public toilet, all clean and in good order, though I'm not sure what they would be like in August! In Vigo I was in a small hotel near the port, so, after a shower, I went down to the port for something to eat. Another lovely lunch. 
The news on the TV whilst I was eating was not good, COVID-19 is taking over the country and many places seem to be closing down completely, I started to get the impression that I would likely have to stop before Santiago. Later in the afternoon, in another bar, I heard the President declare a state of emergency and I realised that I had no choice but make plans for a speedy return home.
Day 3 - back home
I got up very early and walked to the bus station, absolutely nothing was open, I wasn't sure if this was normal for early on Saturday morning or not but at the bus station the cafĂ© was shut as well. Fortunately I had been carrying a bottle of chocolate drink and an energy bar, in case I needed them for breakfast on Sunday, I was very glad to have them with me.  In Ourense I went to do my planned food shop and discovered that there had been a great panic shop already but I managed to get the food I needed and headed home, where I now have to stay.