Finishing!

Day 9 14th October  Pontevedra to Briallos +/- 14 kms

Once the excitement was over I slept really well. I had taken an antihistamine when I got them, in Redondella, and then I took another one before I went to bed, even though the doctor had said to take one a day! Also with walking so far I was exhausted. I used my earplugs and was woken at 06.50 when someone put on the lights. A bit too early in my estimation. I discovered that both the French couple and the German lady had left, why anyone wants to start so early and in the dark, sunrise is about 08.15, I can't imagine. I know it gets hot later but 2 hours in the dark really isn't sensible.

Once the lights were on I gave up and got up. I was going to have a short day and didn't want to leave Pontevedra too early but I also wanted to visit some of the old town before I left, so I got ready and went to find a bar for breakfast. By the time I got to the Old Town it was just getting light. I had a good wander around and went to the Tourist Information Office for info on Briallos and Caldas de Reis. They had very little info on Briallos so it seemed sensible to stock up on food, especially as I had finished my emergency supplies the night before. I found a little shop and bought; a packet of soup, some pasta, a bottle of chocolate drink and an orange, this seemed to cover the basics. Then I had a second cup of coffee and headed out of Pontevedra, then I discovered a Mercadonna! So, I stopped to look. I bought a small packet of 'Chocchip cookies' and 3 small packets of white wine, I would have preferred red as I knew I was not likely to find a fridge but there was no red there. By this time my bag was full so I ended up carrying my 2 bottles of water. I didn't know if Pontevedra to Briallos was 14 or 16 kms, no 2 sources of information give the same distances, but I had it in my head that I would leave Pontevedra at 10ish and arrive in Briallos at 1ish, some rather optimistic calculations there I think. I found I was walking very slowly, everything was an effort, the long haul of the previous day was taking it's toll. I had information on this stretch, which proved to be detailed and correct when I eventually looked at it but I had left it hidden in the depths of my backpack, I put this down to general tiredness and the annoying lights at the albergue. At 12 I came to a bar so I stopped for a beer and decided to have a bacon sandwich, I had no idea how far I had walked, nor how much further I must go. It was already getting very hot. After the break I speeded up a bit and about 1pm I came to a sign that said Albergue, it didn't say Briallos but some albergues have various names, this one said Barro, which rang bells, so I walked up a hill, off the camino, to this barrack type building, I tried a door, which was locked, but there was a phone number so I put my bag down to search for my phone when there was a knock on the window and someone signed to me to go round the otherside, there the door was open. There was a Korean lad here already. I looked around the place, there were 3 rooms with dirty mattresses on the floor, a couple of showers and a clothes washing area, I decided that walking to Caldas would be preferable to staying here so I left and started walking again. I still thought I had walked about 14 kms and had another 7 to go, in fact I had walked about 10! It was getting hotter and hotter, I walked another 4 or 5 kms and came to a sign that said Briallos Albergue, I was so gratefull not to have to walk any further and the Albergue was lovely, really peaceful, modern and clean. There was info saying there is a shop quite close but I had no desire to walk any further so I was glad I had carried food. There was one other person there when I arrived, a German lady, and 2 Portuguese girls turned up later. I did a load of washing as the weather was really hot and the drying area was a sun trap.

I reckoned the Portuguese girls would want to get up early as they only had 4 days and were doing very long walks, though the next day was going to be relatively short for them, about 26kms! I had only a few kms to walk so I wanted to get up as late as possible.

Day 10- 15th October   Briallos to Caldas de Reis 4 kms

A great night. I meant to put my earplugs in so I wouldn't hear the others getting up but I forgot, no matter though, I got up last, by which time the Poruguese had left, in the dark, and the German lady was nearly ready. I had my breakfast and messed about slowly, I was determined not to leave too early, i.e. not in the dark. I believed I had 7 kms to walk. I started just after 8, then realised that I had left my stick behind so I walked back, fortunately the door was still open. I left about 08.15-08.20, it was quite chilly, the first time I have felt at all cold on this camino. I was wearing a sleeveless top, under a long sleeved blouse, and shorts, I came to the conclusion that it was possibly time to wear a fleece in the mornings, but I suddenly walked into warm air, it was quite weird, one minute cold air the next minute warm. I walked back to check that the difference was not due to time (1 second!) but no - in one footstep the temperature changed a good 5 degrees.
I arrived in Caldas about 9.15, a bit of a surprise, I had been walking slowly so it can't have been more than 4 kms from Briallos. I had been having difficulty contacting Ling so I could not go on further but I was not sure what I should do, my one text from her said that there was no albergue in Caldas, I didn't want her to stay in Briallos and me to be stuck in Caldas if I could easily get to Padron. However she eventually borrowed a phone and we spoke, I also found an internet cafe so all was well, I spent the morning on the internet, then went to the Albergue, which is by the Roman bridge. The Albergue was not one of the best I had been in but it was functional. There are 'swings and roundabouts', this albergue had no kitchen to speak of, just a microwave, but there were lots of bars, a thermal foot bath and an internet cafe, Briallos was lovely but I had to carry food from Pontevedra!

In the afternoon I met up with Ling, we went to soak our feet in the hot spa, water very hot! then I went back to the internet place, then finally to the supermarket to buy food for the evening (salad). We invited Suzanne and Jenny to eat with us but they had been invited by Abel, to go out for a meal, so Jenny didn't want to eat but Suizanne joined us. After we ate we went back to the foot baths for another soak, locals were collecting water in all sorts of containers, some for drinking, one young man was collecting the water to bath the baby! After the soak it was back to the albergue, I decided it was an earplug night, especially as the lady next to me was already snoring.

Day 11, Sunday 16th October    Caldas de Reis to Teo 31 kms

Even with my earplugs I heard people shouting outside at about 3 a.m. then I went back to sleep and was woken by Ling shaking me, to tell me that the water supply was nearly non-existent and if I wanted any water at all I needed to get up, but the water was already nearly non-existent so I cleaned my teeth with my bottle of water and my hands with sanitizer. I had some breakfast, a chocolate drink and and biscuits then set off with Ling, in the dark. Ling had bought herself a reflective jacket and was keen to put it to good use so she walked in front of me when we walked on a road.
We walked well and quickly and started to discuss our options, I had wanted to stay at the Convent at Hebron, just outside Padron, but Ling thought that that would make the next day too long (27kms) so we decided that we would probably continue to Teo (31kms) There is some logic here, allbeit Camino logic, better to walk more when you feel good than put it off to another day! When we got to the turn off to the convent it said it opened at 16.00, as the time then was 12.00 it confirmed us in our opinion of walking into Padron.

In Padron they had an enormous market all along the river, it was really difficult to get through. I really lost my cool, much to Ling's amusement. There was a road running parallel to the market but we couldn't see it because of the crowds, there was also a road running along the river on the other side, the clever people crossed over early. We went to look at the Albergue, it was very nice, but by then I just wanted to go, though I was still keen to eat some 'Pimientos de Padron' in Padron, it seemed too busy but just as we were leaving I saw a Tapas bar so I went for my peppers and Ling walked on. There was also a supermarket opposite so I bought some kiwis and some chocolate drinks for breakfast. Then I set off to catch up with Ling, I had to really push myself but I did it. It was a long walk but we made it to Teo. We got there to find the German lady who had been in Briallos and 2 Portuguese that Ling knew. Ling and one of the Portuguese, Patricia, decided we should all eat together. There was not a lot of food but Patricia is a chef and she and Ling got to work in the kitchen, they managed a 3 course meal! Soup, pasta and a fresh fruit salad. Suzanne and Jenny arrived just in time to join us, we had a really fun meal.

Day 12, Monday 17th October    Teo to Santiago 13kms

We all slept well. I got up about 7.15 and went down to have breakfast, at 7.45 I woke Suzanne and Jenny and put the light on. We started off as soon as it was getting light and got to Santiago in time to go to the Pilgrim's Office before going to Mass. We were looking for a seat when I noticed the Botafumeiro hanging so I rushed Ling back to the transept and found seats there. Then I noticed that the German children were across the aisle, we had a big reunion, it was lovely to see them. They had been in Santiago 3 days, they said the Cathedral had been packed on Sunday but the Botafumeiro had not flown but it was flying today.

Later in the day I saw Vasco and Abel but we never saw Suzanne and Jenny or the 2 Polish guys we had seen from time to time since Ponte de Lima. We went to the Parador for the evening meal, it was a very strange bunch. When we got back to the Seminario people were already asleep and the lights were turned off very early.

Tuesday 18th October.

We got up and went for breakfast at the Parador, there was only one other person, a New Zealand lady who had done a long camino but didn't want to tell us much about it. Then we went to the bus station to get the bus to Negreira. From Negreira we walked back up the Camino to Ponte Maceira and had a lovely lunch. Then we walked back to Negreira to see where Ling got lost last year!

Sunset over Santiago

Wednesday, 19th October
Back home. I had quite a lot of time to kill in Ourense so I went to find the hot spring at As Burgas, I think the water was even hotter than at Caldas!

more camino portugues

Ponte do Lima

Day 4 continued.

Reading back I seem to be saying everything is lovely, I must find another adjective!
In the evening, in Ponte de Lima, the Potuguese said we should all go to a restaurant and try the local speciality "Arroz de Sarrabulho", it was various unmentionable pig bits cooked with rice in pig´s blood, the meaty bits were then served separately, it was actually quite tasty!

Day 5 - Monday 10th October
Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes 19kms
I got up 7ish, along with everyone else. I have been bitten and my arm has swollen and I have very itchy ?dermatitis on parts of my hands, the dermatitis is much more bothersome than the few bites, not sure what has bitten me, there was a mosquito buzzing around in Rates and I lay down on the grass in Portella!

Not a long walk today and through pleasant countryside but we had to go up a very steep hill. Part of the Via Nova again, Antonino really made his soldiers suffer!

Abel, one of the Portuguese chaps, was to cook supper, the previous night had ended in an "argument" as to who was to pay, in the end we all gave money to Abel and he said he would use it to cook today. The albergue is in the middle of nowhere but he has friends around and he reckoned he could get someone to transport supplies.
I got to the albergue at 12.30 and sat in the shade until it opened at about 13.20. A good albergue, plenty of space and a well stocked kitchen, like all the Portuguese kitchens it also had a fridge/freezer.
During the evening we had some concern, there are 3, 12 year old, German children, travelling with their grandfather. The grandfather had gone out, telling the children that he was going to get drinks for them, he was gone for a long time and everyone was starting to worry, I went to look for him, I found him coming back from the bar, he was totally oblivious of any concern he would cause, and he hadn't got drinks for the children.
We had a good evening, good food and good company.

Day 6, Tuesday 11th October
Rubiaes to Valenca 19kms
I started at 7.45 again, I much prefer the cool of the morning, I stopped after about 5 kms for a coffee and again after another 4. It is still warm, sunny weather, today was a pleasant walk, most of it off road. When I got to Valenca there were very few arrows and no signs for the albergue. I followed what arrows there were until I got to the bridge for Tui, when I realised I had gone too far, so I went up to the Fortress and walked the entire length.

Inside the fortress is super, an entire town, from the outside it just looks like a load of stone and grass.

Eventually I found the Tourist Information Office, but it was closed, then I had a 'camino' moment, I passed a little chapel and stood in the door and said, 'Please show me the albergue', then I walked out of the gates and there was the albergue! Suzanne and Jenny, the 2 German girls were sitting outside waiting, it opened at 13.00 and it was almost opening time. A little later Abel turned up and said that the rest had gone on to Tui, I was a little surprised as Ling had not texted me, it seemed we were going to have a quiet hostel, but a little later Ling turned up! She had no idea anyone had gone to Tui, she reckoned she must have missed that part of the conversation. Then, to everyones surprise, Vasco, Hubert and the children arrived, they were all hot and tired and very fed-up as they had been walking backwards and forwards in the heat.
Suzanne and Jenny had offered to cook dinner, there was a supermarket near the albergue and we all went mad in there, we also all did a big clothes wash as the garden was a sun trap.
After dinner we were all relaxing when one of the boys cracked his head on a ceiling joist, the boys were jumping from bunk to bunk!
Johannes told me, but said, 'Alles en ordnung' nevertheless I got the 2 German girls and we went to investigate, Moritz, the lad was sitting with an ice pack on his head, looking very shocked, the other 2 looked pretty shocked too, he obviously needed medical attention but no-one seemed to know what was happening, there were no adults with them! Then Abel came back with bombeiros and an ambulance, apparently the fire service run the ambulances. God knows why the adults had left the children alone and not told any of us. Jenny went with them to the medical centre, to support the boy, no-one else seemed to be. The grandfather is too old and really not fit to be taking 3 12 year olds on such a long walk. The 2 children left behind were very concerned, especially as one was his twin sister!
Fortunately they were not away too long, Moritz had his head stitched up!

Day 7, 12th October
Valenca to O Porriño +/- 20 kms
We all got up early as we were going to lose an hour going into Spain. This was supposed to be the day when we all split up as a group, Hubert and the children were giving up on the Camino and Vasco said he would go to Tui with them.
I had breakfast then started walking, Suzanne and Jenny started just before me but they were going to visit the Fortaleza on the way out.

View back over Valenca

View of Tui

Tui cathedral

 I walked to Tui and visited the old town and Cathedral, they are beautiful, from here the walk was up the side of a road, a country road, or, rather, a road in the country, but a main road, then we walked for a while through woodland, which was pleasant, for me anyway, Suzanne and Jenny split up and Jenny walked through on her own later, she was propositioned by a man who then walked off and masturbated in front of her! Later she passed him in his car and again he asked her to have sex with him.
After the wood there were a series of villages then 7 kms of industrial estate, it was drear. Suzanne was walking ahead of me but she was also bothered by a man, on a bike, that she couldn't get rid of, in the end she walked back to meet me and we walked together. She was a girl on a mission and we walked fast, we were very pleased to get to the Albergue. She decided to rest outside as she wanted to walk onto the next albergue at Mos, 5 kms further on, so she waited for Jenny. Then Vasco and Abel turned up, then Hubert and the children arrived by car.
Ling and I ate in. Ling cooked all the pasta she found in the kitchen, I wanted to cook my pasta in my soup so Ling fed Vasco then the 2 boys. The kitchen had plenty of big pans and glasses but very little of anything else, so I has to use my pans. I used up half of my emergency supplies and the wine I had bought in Valenca

O Porino town hall

Day 8 13th October
O Poriño to Pontevedra 34 kms
I had a bad night, I itched and more blisters came up on my feet that hurt. In the end I got up at 6, got my stuff together and went to the Medical Centre. On the way a woman came out of a bar to see where I was going, she thought I was lost! The doctor prescribed an antihistamine, then I went to a bar for breakfast, I had a delicious fresh croissant and coffee. Then I started walking but very slowly as it was still dark. It was OK in the town as there were street lights and pavement, by the time I came to the out of town stretch it was almost fully light but I was a bit worried and very grateful to turn off the main road, unfortunately I also had to cross the very busy road.
Lots of ups and downs today, I had a second breakfast in Mos then carried on to Redondella. I got there at 11.30, went to the chemist then went to look for the albergue, it was a lovely old building right in the town, I had a drink but it was still a wait until the albergue would open so I decided to move on and investigate the 2 albergues that I had names for, between Redondella and Pontevedra.

The camino from Redondella to Arcade and on to Ponte Sampaaio had some incredible scenery, lots of ups and downs as well. Arcade had lots of delicious smelling restaurants as well, I was tempted to stay and eat but I had hope of finding the albergue shortly so I carried on, after Arcade there was very little in the way of possible stops, though I did manage to fill my water bottles. There were no albergues advertised so I could only imagine that they do not exist and I had to keep walking. I had lost my page of instructions for that route so I had no idea where I was I just had to keep walking. Eventually I came to a sign that said 2.4 kms to go, every step was a pain but I got there. I hoped to stay 2 nights but they said "No", from conversations I can understand why as lots of people were wanting to stay. The albergue was on the edge of town and I was too tired to walk into the old town then so I decided to do a short day the next day and visit Pontevedra in the morning.
Hubert and the children arrived by taxi, they had walked as far as Ponte Sampaio which was a long walk. Finally, nearly 9, Suzanne and Jenny arrived, they had had a good day, lots of rests and they had been walking with 3 Spanish boys!
I went to bed with the intention of playing Sudoku till I was sleepy but the light in the dormitory was on an automatic timer and went off every 5 minutes, it was just too annoying. It was a large dorm with about 48 bunks and almost full so the light needed to be on but 2 or 3 had gone to bed early and were very cross every time the light was put back on, A French woman was threatening to put the light on at 6 but a Spanish man got cross too, saying 21.00 was too early for the light to be off, which, in all fairness it was.
Eventually the lights went out, then we were all disturbed by a young man being sick in the rubbish bin by the door, then it was 'all action'. The German woman by the door was up and shouting, someone else was explaining that the lad was ill, which was great to know, I would rather he had been drunk, it's not catching! Finally a Spanish man I had seen various times during the evening, with his wife, got up and went to the door and asked; 'How is the lad?' He also assisted with the cleaning, using a disinfectant. A real Christian, a real Pilgrim. I'm afraid I just lay in bed and watched!
The man in the bed on my left, close to the door, was using some kind of respirator/humidifier which was plugged into the wall near where the boy was sick, he was worried about his plug. On my other side I had a man whose bed was so close I felt we ought to introduce ourselves before we slept together! When I got into bed his sleeping bag was touching mine! I pushed his mattress as far away as I could, which gave us about an inch!
Finally all quietened. Suzanne and Jenny went and slept in the sitting area as they were too close to the sick boy for comfort.

During the night the lad next to me rolled over and landed on top of me, all together an eventful night.

camino Prtugues continued

Day 3 - Rates to Portela 25kms
The cyclists got up at 7am, they did this fairly quietly but with torches, so we all woke up. I decided to get up too. I left at 7.30 and walked to Pedro Furada, 5kms, for breakfast. Then on to Barcelos, a lovely little town.



Finally on to Portela. A lovely albergue. only 2 years old, when I arrived at 2pm there were 2 German ladies just in front of me, we read the sign saying it opened at 3pm so we sat to wait, at 2.30 a young man appeared and pointed out that the door was open! The Hospitalera cooked soup, Ling had prepared food for 4 of us and a Portuguese chap cooked as well so we had a super communal meal. I came out of it very well, I had bought a bottle of wine and drunk half, when I went for the rest it had dissappeared, they had put it in the meal! So they organised another, better, bottle of wine for me. There are 2 Portuguese men, I haven´t discovered the name of one but the other is called Vasco de Gama!!!
I have a blister on the sole of my right foot but it doesn´t seem to be bothering me much. Tne weather is still warm, too hot to walk much in the afternoon. Lots of lovely people.

Day 4 Sunday, 9th October - Portela to Ponte de Lima 25 kms
We had a peaceful night, I left the windows open behind the blinds and the blinds kept tapping but no-one made any protest! We were woken by the church bells at 7am so we all got up. I had a box of chocolate drink and an apple and was ready to start at 7.45. It was a lovely walk but there were very few places to stop for a drink. At 10.30 I walked past a church and filled my water bottle from a fountain, then a few metres later I found a Bar and had a coffee and a kind of `pain-au-chocolat´. Vasco and his friend were already there, I knew they hadn´t passed me, apparently they had used the road because the friend had blisters!
Ponte de Lima is a lovely town, there was a kind of `flea market´or `car boot sale´by the river.

On Sundays I like to have a proper lunch, and, as the albrgue didn´t open until 5pm,. I found a nice Restaurant, had a lovely meal and sat and people watched. There is obviously a coach load of Brits around, probably SAGA. I may manage to investigate a bit more but I mustn´t hog the computer so I´ll stop this.

camino portugues

Wednesday, 5th October

I arrived in Oporto. I got up at 05.30 to walk to the bus stop, I saw lots of stars, even a shooting star, not sure if I saw the Milky Way, the journey was uneventful and when I got to Oporto I went to the Cathedral to get my `credencial´. It was very informal, they have them there already stamped.
Ling met me at the Cathedral and we walked back to the hostel via the beginnings of the Camino.

Thursday, 6th October - Day 1 - Oporto to Vila do Conde
We got up lateish as we were having breakfast at the hostel then we took the metro to Mercado. We started walking at 9.30. The route was well signed and we had no problems to start with. It was a sunny day with very strong winds. There were plenty of people and kiosks close to Matosinhos but as we walked further away many kiosks were closed and some had signs saying they would close shortly. I planned to stop for coffee at about 11 but it was 11.15 when I found a bar open, this was at Praia do Courgo. I then decided that I would stop for lunch at about 1pm but I was sorely tempted before that as I passed some kiosks selling sardines and they smelt gorgeous. I hoped there would be more further on but I was unucky.
After Praia de Courgo we walked through a small fishing village with bright coloured houses, the beach was piled with lobster pots and the fishermen were mending their nets, the sea was far too rough for fishing.

There were no places for topping up my water supply and I ran out of water, I was very dehydrated when we arrived in Vila do Conde. We went to the Tourist Office first to find out where to stay, then to the Pension, then I went to the Post Office by which time I was past caring if I drank or not. Eventually I found a shop and bought, and drank, 2 bottles of squash. We bought a pineapple as well and then stayed in for the evening.
It was a very noisy night, the Portuguese are like the Spanish they don´t seem to sleep. Ling at Vila do Conde

7th October - Day 2 - Vila do Conde to Rates +/-15 kms
A very short day. We left Vila do Conde along the river but there were roadworks it was not pleasant. There were no arrows to follow at first, I was desparate to get onto the proper Camino. Eventually an elderly lady gave me instructions, I felt very re-assured but I didn´t want to stop until I hit the proper camino. I got to Rates at 11.00 which was a bit early but it was lovely to get my boots off and have a drink. The bar also had internet so we could both access our emails whilst we waited.

We went to the Albergue at 2pm to find a sign saying it opened at 16.00 but the lady in the shop gave me a key, it was strange letting ourseves in and a bit difficult finding the sleeping area, which was up a flight of stone steps, but eventually we got sorted. Then 2 German girls arrived, it was only us 4 until late evening when suddenly loads of people arrived, then about 12.30am there was a mass invasion of cyclists all searching for empty bunks and flashing torches and talking, those of us who were asleep were not amused.

The inner view of the albergue

The sitting area in the Albergue at Rates

1st Andaina Ponte Bibei

Walking the old routes is being very much encouraged locally. This was the Ist oraganized walk of this kind. The info was all in 'gallego' but it read, to me, like a kind of historical walk with the extra of being a celebration of the grape harvest :) The walk was to start at 09.30 but we had to be there at 09.00! The walk is described as having the aim of promoting a knowledge of the natural treasures, both cultural and countryside, of eastern Orense. A walk of 25 kilometres, starting in the direction of Mendoia, passing for the Roman bridge of Cabalar, then following the Roman road 'Via Nova' (via 18 of the Antonine roads, which ran from Braga to Astorga), down to Ponte Bibei, then up to the Bodega of Mata, through the vineyards, on to Sobrado with its medieval church, back onto the Roman road and through the chestnut woods and back to Trives.
I rather got the impression there would be some kind of guide and that we were going to stop at the Bodega, especially as they were advertised as one of the sponsors. 25 kms is a long way, I know that, I also know that Ponte Bibei is down a long way, which obviously meant walking back up a long way! Any way I decided to do it. When I went to enrol another lady was enrolling who looked considerably less fit than me, I anticipated that this walk was going to take a long time!
I got up at 07.30, far earlier than I like but I wanted breakfast and I needed to get to Trives for the start at 09.00. When I got up it was raining, though not heavily, this at least meant that it would, hopefully, not be too hot, but it also meant taking a waterproof. People assembled, some looking like they had no idea of what they had signed up for and some obviously very fit. I heard some people saying that the walk would take 4 hours!!! 25 kilometres in hills in 4 hours, I don't think so. When we started a group shot off at about 6 kms an hour, they certainly weren't planning to wait for stragglers, I still thought we had a guide so I started by trying to keep up, my other motive for being at the front was that, I knew, I would be very slow on the hills and I did not want to get totally left behind.

The roman bridge of Cabalar

The roman bridge of Bibei

I knew it would be hard getting down to Bibei but I had no idea that the Romans built such very steep roads! How they ever got carts up or down them I can't imagine. We descended 400 metres over 3 or 4 kilometres and most of this was in the last 50 metres. There was a refreshment place set up by the bridge but, though everyone took a drink, very few, if any paused for a rest. By this time I had realised that it was every man for himself, it was not a guided tour, we followed arrows. From Bibei we went up to the Bodega, though I saw some people give up at this point and walk back on the road, about 6 kms.

The hill up from Bibei to the Bodega!

From Bibei we took a path that resembled a goat track and went up 250 metres in less than a kilometre. At the top we did not stop at the Bodega, I heard later that the owner was a little put out as he had agreed and had prepared a tasting of both his wine and his cheese, presumably it would have also been a toilet stop. Instead of stopping there there was a table set up round the corner with drinks, fruit and muesli bars. I was surprised to find I had caught up with people I never expected to see again, and also some seemed to walk off around the corner, or come from there, I thought this might be for toilet purposes but I think they were actually going to or coming from the Bodega. I thought the descent was down to Bibei and that once this was over, and we had climbed back up again, it would be relatively flat but this is Galicia!

On the way down from the Bodega, with a view of the hill we had to climb on the other side!

The old Roman terraces, from the bottom!

When we got down to the bottom we had to cross over the road and climb up again, anothe 300 metres almost straight up, then we had anothe refreshment stop in the village of Sobrado.

Sobrado

Essentially we walked 10 kilometres from Trives to the Bodega, 10 from their to Sobrado and then 5 back to Trives, they said the last 5 would be flat but they weren't, they just weren't as hard as the rest. It was an interesting walk and exhausting, most of the women I had seen at the beginning and who looked unfit or ill prepared gave up, some thought it was a walk in the park. It would be good if the council repeats the idea but it needs more careful planning, a route that enables more people to participate and to finish, and a stop at a Bodega!

There was a meal at the end but I hadn't understood that bit of the information and I was far too tired to hang around for everyone to finish, I was not the last, also my brain couldn't cope with chatting in Spanish, I left, went home for a beer a bowl of gazpacho and a rest.

More walking!

I did a longish walk yesterday, this sign is new so obviously people are being encouraged to walk the old roads. I liked the yellow arrow. I say longish, it was only about 12/13 kms but very steep in places, I wish there were some flat routes around here.

The council have organised a historical walk for Sunday, following some of the Roman route and ending at a Bodega! I'm interested but it's 25 kms and a long windey hilly road, I'm not sure I'm in good enough shape, it will also mean getting up early as it starts at 09.00, the weather is getting a bit cooler so I may, I'll sleep on it, you have to enrol in advance so maybe tomorrow I'll go down, I assume there will be some kind of historical explanation, in Gallego, so I doubt I will learn much, someone may be kind enough to translate for me!

preparing for the camino again!

In just over 5 weeks I'll be off again, this time to do the Camino Portugues, so I'm walking in my new boots! Actually I walked a couple of times in canvas shoes, the first time it was OK but Saturday I did a long walk and got a blister on the sole of my foot, so today it was boots but I really don't like wearing boots in warm weather. Actually I don't like walking in warm weather so walking in Spring is better for me, it's much easier to get practice during the winter months. I hope October is not too hot.

Chinglish!

Anyone looking for a job in China may be able to find one translating public signs, that is if you can read Chinese, for all I know these signs may be well translated, I couldn't do any better, but they do raise a smile. There were plenty others similar.

Canton! Guangzhou and Hong Kong - the end!

Thursday, 12th May - Almost not itching!

I arrived in Guangzhou without problem and set off to find my hotel, according to the directions provided by the website I neede to take the Metro to Yuancun, follow the map up the road and turn right near the top. I did this but there was no sight of the hotel, I walked round and round. Everyone I showed the map to pointed somewhere vaguely. It was getting stiflingly hot, I was just getting to the point that I was going to say; 'Stuff it, I'll go straight to Hong Kong', when a young lady asked if she could help me. I didn't think she could and when she told me that I needed to get a bus I was almost sure of it, but she assured me that she knew the road where the hotel was situated, that it was near East Guangzhou Station and that I needed to get a bus.
The hotel description had said it was near the East Station so I was persuaded, I needed to go to that station to get my ticket for Hong Kong. This young lady closed up her shop and walked me to the bus-stop, the bus stop had moved so she asked for further directions and walked me to another one. She wrote the name and address of the hotel in Chinese, so I could ask for directions, and she waited with me till the bus came and asked the bus driver to see I got off at the right stop. Incredibly helpful.

Eventually I did find the hotel, it was near the station, once again there was nothing written outside the hotel in either English or Pingyin. I had to guess, walk in and ask. I thought I had put money away for this hotel but if I did I don't know where I put it, fortunately I had 50$US that I could change at the bank. I was sure that I had enough money to get me through to Hong Kong, though the train ticket had been more than I expected. It might have been better to go to Shenzhen and cross there, still I did get to visit Shamian Island in the afternoon.

Crossing to Shamian Island

Signs of British occupation!

Two of the bronze statues that depict peaceful co-habitation

One of the churches

I went into, what I thought was a museum, it turned out to be an antique shop. Another nice young lady showed me around some of the artefacts. I think she did want to make a sale but she was not pushy.

I started to worry about my journey to Hong Kong, my case seems very big and I was unsure about luggage space on the train. It is far too big for me to lift onto a rack. I was also worrying about where to change my yuan to Hong Kong dollars.

Friday, 13th May
A thunderstorm last night and still pouring with rain in the morning, though not as bad as Xingping. Still very warm as well. I went to the station early and had a coffee in Starbucks, I left the hotel before the Bank opened so I didn't ask about HK dollars, this was just as well as I decided to put my case into 'consign', it weighed 18.9 kilos so no problem with airlines, not with Emirates anyway. By now I had put my back-pack in the case and had only a small bag as hand luggage. Through Chinese immigration and customs, there was a sign-up saying that our temperatures were being taken, God knows how, I could see nothing. It was quite luxurious travelling without my case, well worth the money though the train was not full and there would have been space, several people were travelling with much more luggage than me.


When I arrived in Hong Kong, Hung Hom station (really massive), I checked on why my credit card was not working, the ATM told me it had been cancelled, this was an HSBC ATM, my bank. When I got to the hotel I was stupid enough to tell them that my credit card was not working as they wanted a 500$ deposit, as well as paying for my room. I got cross as I did not want to be drawing money out unnecessarily, only to be handed it back as I was leaving the country. I decided that it had been a bad idea to change my booking to Friday, 13th! Eventually we sorted it out to our mutual satisfaction.


I went to a branch of HSBC to use the internet to find out why I was having problems, in the first one I was told that it was not possible, later I found one where I could use the internet but the system was different, both to home and to Shanghai, so I had to leave it. (When I got home and phoned HSBC they said my card had not been cancelled, so what that was about I don't know, but it did stop me spending money in Hong Kong!!)
My hotel was in Kowloon, just off Nathan Road, very convenient for getting about. my hotel room was so small that I could barely get in with my case, but I had a bed, a shower, a kettle and a TV with English language programmes, what more could I want.
Despite the initial problems with the hotel I liked Hong Kong, it's civilised, the traffic drives on the left, there are double decker buses, drivers respect pedestrian crossings, there are almost no bikes and no spitting, on the other hand it is still Chinese.
I had my clothes washed in a Chinese laundry and I found a chain of cafes that had internet access.

I found the flower market and the bird park.

Nathan Road

Saturday

I got up late, just as well as I wanted to post a couple of postcards and the PO did not open till 09.30, British influence again! Then I went down to Tsim Sha Tsui for the Star Ferry to Wan Chai.

Hong Kong Space Museum, Kowloon

I found a branch of the cafe that has internet access so I stopped for a coffee and checked my emails then went for the tram. I took the first tram that came and went as far east as I could
then returned.
Then I took the Peak Tram up to the Peak, had lunch and walked around the Peak. The weather was poor for visibility.

The weather had looked as if it was clearing but it was very patchy and eventually it just got worse. I got the bus back down to central and the Star Ferry back to Kowloon, I walked along Salisbury Road then through Kowloon Park.

Flamingoes in Kowloon Park

Then I went back through Temple Street market and to the hotel. Unfortunately there was not the same choice of English language programmes on so I went to sleep early!

Sunday Up early, not from choice but because I went to sleep too early! I got up and got the metro to central, then to the Mid Level Escalator, the escalator was coming down, which seemed a bit strange as going up is so much more difficult, still I walked up! I stopped in Soho for breakfast and when I got to the very last escalator it was going up!

When I started to come down I found they were all going up, so I took one back up a bit, just so I could say I'd done it. Then I had to walk down all the way.
Then I walked to Central. One of the incredible thing about HK is that you can walk from place to place on overpasses and Shopping Malls, without actually steeping out onto roads and pavements, what was even more surprising on this occasion, was the number of young females sleeping out in the malls and even the streets, they were in groups and many had laptops with them so they didn't seem needy, I suspect that something was happening at a large Hall that I passed, not sure what, pop group maybe? I passed an Australian girl and we were both astonished by the sight, I confess the weather was warm enough for it not to be a problem. In Central I got a bus to Aberdeen.

I had wanted to see the floating restaurants, with the idea of maybe eating in one, but you had to take a sampan out to the restaurants and as I did not know what they served I didn't feel like taking a sampan out and finding myself stuck. Actually given the enthusiam of some of the sampan owners to get you aboard I don't think getting stuck would have been an option!

I took the bus from Aberdeen back to Kowloon and looked for somewhere to eat, it was surprisingly difficult, I ended up going back to the Shopping Mall, to a cafe, and having a sandwich. There was not much left that I wanted to do, so I went back to the hotel for my luggage and took the bus to the airport. Next stop home! (No, next stop was Bangkok, where we had to stay on the plane, then Dubai, where we got off, then home) My only view of Dubai was when the plane banked, I saw little mud houses and desert, not what you think of when you think of Dubai.