Post Camino reflections

I've been back nearly 2 weeks now. People ask me questions about how it was, expecting me to have had some sort of religious or spiritual revelations! I didn't.

For me the main feeling is one of pride, pride that I did it, that I finished and that I carried my own bag all the way. I think that I was an inspiration to several. I was not the oldest on the Camino at that time but I was certainly heading that way. One young German lady asked me how old I was because she wanted to know how much more activity she could look forward to! I was a bit taken aback but I think the fact that I walked fast, at least some of the time, inspired. The pleasure and surprise, that quite a few younger people expressed when they saw me, had nothing to do with my amazing personality but more to do with the fact that I had made it!

I have acquired confidence to carry on with my travel plans, if I can walk the Camino de Santiago (and sleep in Albergue every night) I can do anything.

I have no intention of doing the Camino again but I did lose 12 kilos so if I find myself putting on weight I may have to go back. Not as a pilgrimage but as a long walk, walking is such a good way of seeing a country.

Camino de Santiago week 5

Week 5

Monday 5th April 152kms to go
Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro (1,296m high) 29.73 kms

I got up early (just before 7!) as I had decided to do the long day and try to get to O Cebreiro. Not only a long walk but the second, and last, of the steep hills. There'd been a frost overnight and the temperature was 0ºC when I left Villafranca but the sky was clear, it was just a matter of waiting for the sun to rise above the surrounding hills. A lovely walk even though the first 17kms were mostly by the side of the road.


I had one major moment of anxiety when I found myself at a major road junction, with lorries, hotels and carparks, and no sign of the Camino. I thought I had gone wrong but I managed to find the right way. The climb to O Cebreiro was hard work, though the worst was before A Faba, I hadn't realised that as my original plan had been to stay overnight at A Faba to prepare for the next days climb, so I was glad I had changed my mind.



The weather was lovely and warm and sunny, I ended up in a T-shirt for the first time. Infinitely better than last weeks snow.








Into Galicia! Only a few remnants of snow left.

Here in Galicia there are distance markers every 0.5 kms which helps the count down!

On the way up I was thinking I would have a cold foot bath again, if I could find a bowl, I couldn't, so I stood outside in the snow in bare feet.

O Cebreiro seems to be very much a tourist town. The Albergue is good, though the dormitory is enormous and the kitchen is very poorly equipped with crocks and cutlery, there are no knives, and no cork screw! I had 2 knives when I started but in one of my attempts to reduce weight I parted with both of them. Never mind, I didn't need a knife for pasta and the cork went inside the bottle!

A lot of people turned up late and were greeting long lost friends in the dormitory, the evening was very noisy, then at 9.30 a bus load of teenagers appeared, they continued to chatter loudly until a guy got up and turned out the light at about 10.30, after that they whispered for a while. Then the guy above me started to snore loudly, then the guy next to me was shouting at him, it was all too much after such a long and difficult walk. Eventually I got up for my earplugs. Given that there were 50 people in the room I should have thought to use earplugs earlier but the room was half empty when I went to bed!

Tuesday 6th April

O Cebreiro to Triacastela 21.69 kms

I was going to be horrible and get up early, making a noise, just to spite those who'd disturbed me the night before but I woke up at 7. Just as I was going to get up an alarm went off, waking everyone. I got up quickly and as I was close to the door I was first in the bathroom!

I was out by 7.30 and the morning was spectacular. Well worth the bad night!



Sunrise at the top of the mountain! Spectacular views. The first part of the walk there was still a lot of snow lieing and it was chilly, but not for long. It was a beautiful day, with stunning scenery for most of the day.

My leg has been very painful - a lot of hard work these two days, but it improved by the afternoon, I had hoped to walk on a bit further but I was too tired.

I went to the Albergue privado, in the hope of not meeting all the kids. It was 9€ and comfortable with only 8 in the room, this should have been good but there were 5 Finns who spent the evening occupying most of the floor space, discussing their plans. I managed to fall asleep about 9.15 despite the light and the talking!

Wednesday, 7th April

Triacastela to Ferreiros 37.92 kms

The Finns had an alarm at 6.15! they were 4 females and a male and obviously belong to some culture where men still rule! The alarm was Mr.'s and he got up, the rest slowly followed. One Finn was still asleep but the rest were moving about. Mr and Mrs, after lots of rustling, had gone to make breakfast, then one of the others asked me if they really had to be out by 8!! I wish sometimes that I had it in me to be rude - because up at 6.15!!

Anyway, another beautiful day. I spent the first few kms wondering why I am doing this and contemplating getting a bus from Sarria but, as the sun came up and breakfast hit home, I brightened.

Loads of primroses and violets in the hedgerows, frequently a cuckoo in the valley. The 4th good day weatherwise, it's beautiful. I decided to go for it today. My leg felt better and I wanted to get to under the 100kms mark, so I'm in Ferreiro - 98.5 kms to go.

I saw Annie in Sarria, that was nice because most of the original group have disappeared. She says I've lost weight, not surprising really. I'm now planning to do 3 long days and get to Monte de Gozo on Saturday. I hope I manage because my leg hurts again tonight, but it is better because I had to walk up loads of stepping stones this afternoon and I couldn't have done that last week.

This Albergue is in the middle of nowhere, with a field of chestnuts in front. Super.

It's only small, sleeps 22 and another place where the bunks are very close. There are 5 young student priests here, the one next to me is already a monk and there's about an inch between our beds! The first time I've almost slept with an almost priest!!


Thursday 8th April

Ferreiros to Palas de Rei 34.39 kms
OK - not quite super, the Albergue was full and, as usual, the Spanish ate late and came to bed late and the young ones were giggling even later. Then the snoring started, my ear-plugs were fairly effective, but it is chilly as well and there were no blankets. In the end I put my woolly jumper inside my sleeping bag and that helped. At 3.15 an alarm went off, a mistake I assume, but as the owner got up to pee maybe it wasn't!

At 6.15 more alarms, more people up. One of my concerns before I started was that I wouldn't wake up in the mornings, I needn't have worried. In the end I got up at 6.50 and took my breakfast through to the dining area. I left at 7.20. I never thought I would see so many dawns consecutively! Another lovely morning. The first 8 kms were lovely but below were clouds and fog, where Portomarin should have been. Eventually into Portomarin, it was just about possible to make out water under the bridge. So, in over a bridge, up a load of steps, stop for a cup of coffee then down a road, double back down a lower road and back over a bridge, which appeared to be next to the one we started on. It did make us wonder why, and we saw nothing of Portomarin.

Later, as the fog was lifting I saw a white rainbow!! Sounds strange but the mist formed just an arc over the road, but even in the sunlight it didn't break down into the colours of the rainbow. Very strange.

Up into the sunshine and then loads of people. The Camino was full of 'pilgrims' without backpacks. Busloads, doing Sarria to Santiago on foot whilst their luggage went ahead. I first became aware of them when one silly man rang the church bells of a small village, an irate villager was apparently very rude to him. I could understand why. It makes sense to me that, in small country villages, ringing the church bell is a means of announcing a problem/disaster etc. I checked with a Spaniard later and he said the same thing, church bells are not to be played with.

The 'tourist-pilgrims' continued to be a pain for the rest of the morning but eventually they stopped for lunch. But they are filling up the Albergues, which makes it difficult for those of us who walk more slowly because of our back-packs.

Walking has been lovely again. I saw some small white flowers today, at first I thought they were some kind of orchid but they are very small narcissi. The lovely weather and scenery has helped me to walk the extra kilometres because I'm determined to finish on Sunday morning.

Palas de Rei, in the old Albergue in the centre of town, better situation than the new one, which is on the edge of town, however the new one is full of touri-pilgrims. The only problem here is that, although the Albergue is advertised as having a kitchen there is no crockery or cutlery. Fortunately for me some Spaniards had left stuff drying in the kitchen and we thought it was communal so used it! The kitchens in Galicia are very bad, those in Castilla y Leon were much better.

Friday 9th April

Palas de Rei to Arzua 29.52 +

Hard work today. My legs and feet are very tired with all these long days, but only one more left. Another beautiful day. It becomes difficult to walk in the afternoon when it is warm and there is a danger of not getting a bed. It must be really difficult in summer. It's also become obvious that the distance markers are up the creak! They have been there a long time and new roads mean that the Camino is often diverted, so it's yet another set of measurements, but I still like to see them and to see the distance reducing.

I've seen a few more old faces today, people I've passed at one time or another. There's an elderly American guy who was very sprightly (ex-army) but he got the tummy bug in Manzarife, he looks very tired now.

I got lost coming out of Palas this morning and added another kilometre or 2 to my day, that'll teach me to concentrate, maybe!

Tomorrow to Monte de Gozo, by hook or by crook. I've booked my hotel for Sunday night!

Saturday 10th April day 32

Arzua to Monte de Gozo 34.52 kms

Another dawn! Hopefully my last!

Another beautifully warm day. Good walking for the first half, no hoards, the other day was like an infestation. Today I saw very few walkers, though quite a few cyclists, and the walkers I saw were all people I had seen before.

I passed 2 men bravely carrying 2 back-packs. The first coupe were young Spanish, they live in Santiago and had only been walking a few days. They were trying to get all the way to Santiago, I think he was only carrying 2 to encourage her to walk so that they could get home to their own bed. The 2nd couple were Koreans, sad, because they have walked all the way and she really did look like she was suffering. Carrying 2 backpacks really must be a measure of love.

Monte de Gozo is Mountain of Joy, one is supposed to be able to see the towers of the Cathedral from here. There's a heat mist and I can't see them. My only joy was actually getting here. The last 15-16kms were hell. Starting with walking under an incoming jet; just feet above the perimeter fence of the airport that I was walking past; the fact that all the distance markers were removed and the signs were few and far between and the last 9kms were by, or on, a road, in the sun. I don't know how anyone does this in summer, the temperature is only in the 20's at the moment. The only thing that kept me going was the thought of finishing!

The Albergue here reminds me of some 1960's English University Campus, concrete and bleak with just a few trees scattered around, not quite as dire as Brunel but getting there. The only advantage is that the rooms are small (8), generally uni sex and I won't have to share it with some pre-adolescent spaniards (pre-adolescent in humour, not age). I suspect they underestimate my knowledge of Spanish and certainly my understanding of Catalan.

The other disadvantage for me is that, although there is a cash machine it doesn't want to recognize my cards. Please God I have more luck in Santiago else I will be in trouble. I should have taken money out in Arzua but I didn't think. Never mind, I spent a lovely early evening sitting outside and spent the last of my money on another glass of wine!!

Sunday 11th April Day 33

Monte de Gozo to Santiago 5kms

I hadn't wanted to see another dawn but I was warned that with all the busloads turning up for their 'Compostelos' there would be queues at the office and it would be better to get there early, so another dawn.

The picture looks predawn but if I'd waited another few minutes the sun would have come up! this is the Pilgrims Monument with the moon behind it!

Quite a nice walk into Santiago. I managed to get some money from a bank cash machine! Then just as I was arriving I met Ellen and her Mum going down to the bus station. I was so pleased to see them.

I got to Santiago early enough to go into the Cathedral through the Holy Year Door, and with my back-pack! Both not allowed now because of the crowds. It does seem appropriate when you've done a Pilgrimage of however many kms., to finish it by going into the Cathdral first, before getting signed off at the Pilgrim Office.

Here I am back-pack and all!

Then it was breakfast in my favourite cafe, Cafe Casino, a very old fashioned relaxed place - Art Nouveau I think, established 1873 and probably not changed much, then to my hotel to get rid of that back-pack and stick. Later to the Pilgrim Mass, where the Botafumeiro was flying high! Photos below aren't brilliant but you can make it a very large incense burner swinging around.

I was all excited about having a nice hotel room to myself, with my own bathroom when I realised that my room was right by the Cathedral and the clock strikes the quarter hours!

Monday, 12th April

Home today!

Last night was OK. I watched 'Silent Witness' on the TV in English, didn't feel tired at all. The clock was not a problem. I'm more bothered about my asthma at the moment, I haven't been able to increase my dosage of Beclamthasone as I stupidly only brought one inhaler with me, so I've been taking loads of Ventolin, most unusal for me, but then I don't usually take excessive excercise! I'm coughing a lot which is a pain.

Off to the station to buy my train ticket, €4.75, a gift really. Then I went on a spending spree, not really a good idea, but I had carried a blouse with me to wear in Santiago and when I got here I discovered it was wet and stank of damp. In Orbigo the radiator leaked and my bag got very wet at the bottom. The blouse was in a plastic bag so I didn't worry about it, if I'd checked I'd have washed it at some point. Anyway I bought a new blouse and top, then some new ear-rings and then walked straight into Vicenta and Annie, 3 of us from the original group! It was lovely to meet up with them. Annie thought that Amy was in Santiago as well but no-one has seen her, that's a shame.

The first pages of my 'credencial' and my 'Compostela'.