Camino de Santiago Week 4

Monday, 29th March
Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon 18.18 kms

Not a good day!
It started out OK as no-one moved till 7 am. I started walking at 7.30. but with the change of hours it was dark! My leg is very painful but I would like to keep going a few days as I would like to see some of the Holy Week Processions. I've lost both my sticks and I needed a stick today, I had thought to buy one in Leon, but I managed to find one by the river! In the dark I saw the first arrow which led me across the road but I missed the one that led me up by the road, so I went for a lovely walk by the river! It was lovely until I realised that there were no arrows and that I was supposed to be walking by the road, so I wasted half an hour and walked 1-2 kms more than necessary! But I did manage to find a fallen branch which made a good stick! The rest of the walk was not that pleasant and it started to rain again.
My body tells me that this would be a good place to spend an extra day but it is Holy Week, the Hotels expect to have 100% occupancy and they will be extra expensive. I would like to get to Astorga by Wednesday or Thursday to see a Procession but, if my leg is no better, I will probably go home for a few days. I'm in the happy position that going home is much cheaper and more comfortable than staying in a city or a hotel!
I'll have to start a rescue service for pilgrims who need R&R after they've reached Leon or Astorga!

Lots of very pristine Spanish walking today! One family passed me just outside Mansilla, when I got to the next village, and stopped for coffee, they were in the bar and had ordered a bottle of wine and bocadillos. I haven't seen them since!

Lillian was stopping at Leon so we went for a meal in the evening, it was very nice.In Leon I stayed at the convent, it's the first Albergue I've been to that doesn't have pillows! It ¡s very hot too.

Tuesday30th March
Leon to Villar de Mazarife 21.95 kms

My leg continued to be really painful last night so I started early this morning, there was really no alternative to walking the 21kms. A lovely day, it's stopped raining but there is still a very cold wind and it still comes mostly from in front.
I had company coming out of Leon, I was dithering, looking for an arrow when I was joined by an Australian lad, he walked with me and then we were joined by a Spaniard for a while. It helps to have extra eyes in towns as some of the arrows are obscure.
After a while I was passed by a Spanish couple I had seen yesterday in Leon, they kind of look like pilgrims but he is carrying a small rucksack and she doesn't have one at all! Strange! When I stopped for coffee they were in the Bar, he was pacing up and down talking into his mobile, he was doing it when I arrived and he was still doing it when I left, he must have added another kilometer or 2 to the journey!
Later I walked alone, my leg got better with the walking. Lovely not to be walking by a road, and in the background are the mountains. This time I think they really are the Picos de Europa.
I've come to the albergue de San Antonio de Padua, another one where there is no kitchen but it does have internet, but I think I'm taking up too much time so I will have to stop! The hospitalero is a physiotherapist, he massaged my foot and said that it is OK to walk on it, it is clearing on its own, whatever 'it' is! A touch of tendonitis I think!There is a lass here with a tummy bug and at Mansilla they were saying that Ellen had had to stay there because of a bug so I hope not too many people catch it!
I had a meal in the Albergue, I thought I should, it's the last time I do something because I think I should and not because I want too! It was terrible, not the meal but the company, there was a family 4 German females and a toddler, a German couple, who I've met before and I know are very quiet, and the German lass and no-one spoke, the family sat down one side of the table and didn't even speak to each other let alone anyone else. I hope if they do much Camino they will learn to speak, I didn't feel up to starting a conversation in German and I don't like to expect people to speak English. So Silence!!

Wednesday 31st March
Villar de Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo 15,08 kms

Just a short one today and a lateish start. Breakfast was from 7.30 so nobody got up early and it had been a lovely quiet night. At breakfast I spoke to an American and an Italian, when I spoke about the processions in Astorga I could feel the Germans all listening but no-one spoke again!

A cold start, sun to the left and rain clouds to the right it was a question of which arrived first and it was the sun! Now I am walking towards the snow capped mountains of Galicia, they are there all the time as a reminder of what is to come in a few days. I saw a very large stork's nest, complete with stork sitting on it, that was being 'squatted' by dozens of little birds, all twittering away. Mrs Stork didn't seem to mind and I suppose it was a desirable residence for the little birds.

I met one of the Korean girls who I haven't seen since Los Arcos. It's lovely to meet up with people again. I've done a short walk today as I hope to see a Procession in Astorga if I get there tomorrow, also it will give my ankle time to improve more before the hills.
This is a nice little town, I managed to do a bit of shopping, I've bought packets of Nescafe and little cream things, they will be really useful both for drinks in the afternoon and for breakfasts. I'm at the Parroquial Albergue, old and interesting, not very warm but the dormitory is cosy and there's a kitchen, which is good. The wash area and toilet are across a patio so I hope it doesn't rain!

Thursday 1st April, Maundy Thursday.
Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga 15.96 kms

Another fairly short day! A lovely day today but cold, still a cold wind! A very pleasant walk, I took the longer country route, probably not what I intended originally but much nicer than walking up the side of the road.

There's definitely a new breed of German about, they started in Leon and have 2 weeks holiday, they are hell bent on getting to Santiago at all speed and haven't yet learnt that on the Camino you greet everyone you pass! I expect they'll get the message eventually.
6 kms outside Astorga is an old 'hangar' type building. It's been taken over by a young Spanish guy and he's doing a lovely selection of fruit and drinks, a lovely surprise because it's a route with lots of ups and downs and not many places to stop.
Astorga is a lovely town. Originally roman and roads led here from all over Spain, or maybe from here to all over France and Spain, I was hoping to find out more and I got here in time to visit the Museum but it didn't really explain, just re-iterated the facts that I already knew; there were gold deposits near here, but I don't know if the roads were to bring other minerals here, like the Via de la Plata from Andalucia or to carry gold away.

There was a mini procession on when I arrived and another one at 10pm.




I had a good evening, I ate with Julia, a German lass, then more Germans arrived, so conversation was in German, but I managed to understand the majority and added comments in English so it worked OK. We went to see the Procession, it was only small as Astorga is only a small town, but it was well done. For 2 or3 years, in Ibiza, I guided Good Friday coaches to the Procession but I never watched it. The drivers and guides always went for a meal, as it was Good Friday there was a reluctance to eat meat so we always had 'Gambas a la Plancha' (grilled prawns)! How much suffering can any one person endure!? In Almuñecar I watched a Procession but I was really put off because during rests (and there are many as the 'floats' weight tons) they would light up cigarettes and eat bocadillos, it didn't seem right in a religious procession. This time the rests were just quiet moments. Now I am very keen to see a Procession in a big city.





















A Good Friday 'float'.










I've discovered that in Leon (province) they do 'tapas' the kind that appear unexpectedly to help your drink go down. I've had some of the best ones ever whilst walking in Leon.

Friday 2nd April
Astorga to Foncebadon 25.13kms (1,439metres)
I heard a cuckoo today!
Today has been a good day. Last night Julia said that for her the first 10 kms are hard work and then after that she just enjoys walking! I've never been in that happy state, I'm constantly walking to arrive, but today I enjoyed walking.
The scenery is lovely. I had dressed for cold weather because of the incessant wind and the fact that we were going up 600 metres - so - no wind in the morning and the sun shone, by lunch time it was really warm, I was stripping off layers all the time.
There are loads of 'weekend pilgrims'; people carrying tiny backpacks, or no backpacks at all. A family turned up at the Albergue with a dog. They had walked a whole 10 kms, I think really they were just walking the dog and fancied a cheap night, but they had organised a 'credencial'. The ' hospitalero' was a bit taken aback but he reckoned that Santiago would still be in the same place in 30 years!

Today I did something I never do, I've actually walked further than I planned, so I've almost finished the climb but the last 4 kms it rained and we were walking through a stream running down the camino.
This is another of those quaint Albergues and we had a fun evening. I keep being surrounded by young German girls, also the German couple who were at Manzarife are here. I can't have much of a conversation with them but we're effusive with our greetings now. We had a round the table evening, some had the menu and some of us prepared our own food but it was very friendly. The German couple assure me that the family in Manzarife was Austrian, not German, and that the Austrians don't like the Germans! Also, apparently it did not use to be permitted to talk during meals in Austria!

Saturday, 3rd April
Foncebadon to Ponferrada 26.6 kms. 202.5 kms to Santiago!

I had a good breakfast, then looked out of the window! It had snowed overnight! Then someone said it was still snowing! It was, and it continued to snow heavily, with occasional blasts of hail. Fortunately the ground was too muddy for it to be slippery, but open areas were very windy and cold. I took my stone to the Cruz de Fierro, tradition has it that you throw a stone backwards, over your shoulder, towards the cross, thus getting rid of one's negative traits. I then plodded on, there were times when it was impossible to look up so I just followed the footprints, though these became covered fairly quickly. At one point I got a stone in my boot and had to try to lean against a pole, one legged whilst I got it out!
The scenery was beautiful, like a Christmas card, (I always reckon that in England there's more chance of snow at Easter than at Christmas!)
After a while clouds set in and it was impossible to see anything, then, suddenly the cloud lifted and there was a superb view across the valley, at this point almost all green as I was almost down to the snow line. In the distance I could see Ponferrada with the sun shining on it! It was one of those moments when you know why it is worthwhile walking up hills!

The coming down of this hill was considerably harder than the going up. It was steep and rocky or very muddy, at one point 2 trees had fallen across the path which was a little difficult, I have the bruises to prove it! I always have difficulty walking down hills, I panic and tense up and rely heavily on sticks to move very slowly. I was making my ponderous way down when first one, then a second, young man bounced past me. I looked at the enviously thinking, 'I used to be able to do that, why can't I do it now?' Then I thought, 'stuff it I can'. So I lifted my sticks and 'ran' down. Very satisfying and much quicker.All in all it was a long and difficult day but there was some lovely scenery. I did find it off putting, as I almost crawled into Ponferrada to see a memorial to someone who died there, I didn't need that information!

I don't know what happened to the weekend pilgrims, they seemed to disappear, I reckon they went home!

Easter Sunday 4th April.
Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierza 22.35 kms

A beautiful day, sunshine and beautiful scenery, full spring with lots of flowers - mimosa, blossoms and lots of little flowers e.g primroses and violets. I've discovered that it's kind of normal for little birds to nest in with bigger birds, they don't seem to mind sharing.
I passed through Cacabelos just as the Easter Sunday procession was leaving the church, all the locals were dressed up, we look very out of place.

I arrived in Villafranca in time to have my Sunday lunch. Many were going on further. Pilgrims are dispersing fast at the moment, people are organising themselves according to their ability to face O Cebreira, the big climb which is coming up next. The original group I was with has completely dispersed and the faces around now are ones which have turned up only over the last few days, we are now at a point when, hopefully, we will re-meet in Santiago.

Only 180kms to go and 1 steep climb.

Camino de Santiago week 3

Monday 22nd Burgos to Hornillos del Camino 21.41 kms

According to my credencial there are 475 kms to go!!

I thought that I had seen the last of all of the original 9 that I met in Roncesvalles but 4 of us were in Burgos last night, though I didn't see Vicenta, she went to a different Albergue.

The Municipal Albergue was very good. I stayed in Burgos for a while in the morning, until some of the shops were open as the memory on my camera was full. The poor little thing doesn't have much memory, so I had a CD burnt of my photos. At least I hope I did as I've wiped them off now! When I get to somewhere with a decent computer I will have a look and try to post some of them. I was going to try and buy some socks as well as I need another pair but the only possible place I could find was El Corte Ingles but this was the wrong side of town and opened at 10. So I had breakfast, wondered around, complete with back-pack, organised my photos, then left about 10 to 10. Initially the weather was very misty, this was fine for walking, not too hot, not too cold, later the sun came out and I spent an hour in Rabe de la Calzada with a couple of beers and some tortilla, sitting outside in the sun, it was very pleasant.


I ditched my thick fleece in Azofra because the zip had been broken for several days. Today Oscar told me that he has it, he thought that I'd left it by mistake! Apparently he also mended the zip! I think I only really wanted an excuse to ditch something I was carrying to save weight!


I'm finding it very difficult to get to sleep at night. I find that the moment I get into bed my feet become alive, they burn, they itch and every nerve ending pops up to say hello. I have to stick my feet out of the sleeping bag. I mentioned this this morning to a guy who trains rugby players, he said about sports people soaking their limbs in ice! I couldn't find any ice this evening but I found a bowl of cold water and soaked my feet. I'll have to see tonight if it works. Otherwise it may be Ibruprofen at night as well!

Well the week has started with an almost completely different set of pilgrims, only 2 people I know are still here. One is a very large German girl, all credit to her she persists and has managed to stay the course. She really didn't want to walk today and she did a very long day yesterday but she's here. I don't think I would have the guts to carry it through like she is. It's odd how people come and go but I have nothing to moan about today!!

On the other hand the Camino is certainly a study in human behaviour. Tonight there is a little old Spanish man, I suppose 70-80, difficult to tell with country folk! He says he has long had the idea of doing the Camino. He started in February in St. Jean Pied de Port, in the snow. He's obviously been toddling along fairly slowly but today, in Burgos, he attached himself to a German lady and now he seems to think he owns her, the poor woman can't get rid of him. There is an interesting group of people here tonight, getting bigger by the minute.

Tuesday 23rd March

Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz 20.33 kms

Bathing my feet definitely helped yesterday, I slept well. I had thought that bathing feet in cold water was something to do in summer, I hadn't thought of doing it now.

Also I've always thought of Burgos to Leon as being very flat, it always seems so on the motorway, but today has had lots of ups and downs, mostly gentle but still a surprise. Nice walking today, very still in the morning, just the sound of bird song, or twitter. I wish I knew more about bird song, there are mostly no birds to be seen, they are of a variety, or varieties, that nest on the ground, in the cornfields (skylarks maybe?), but they don't half make a noise.

Castrojeriz is a nice little town with just 2 shops, one of them sells the most amazing collection of trecking gear, socks by the thousands, so I've bought a pair of socks and an ultra-light towel. I'm staying in the Albergue privado, primarily because I thought they did breakfasts, but they don't until summer so I'll have to go to the bar in the morning, hope it's open. The Albergue is very quaint and there was just me and the German lass but, whilst I've been sitting here my favourite Slovakian pair have turned up!! I really thought I'd lost them but no such luck! Any way it worked OK. Mrs Slovak went straight to the kitchen (about 4.30) and was still there at 6 when I went to the shop to buy some food, the shop was late opening so we had a pilgrim get together from the 2 Albergues and by the time we got back the kitchen had been vacated so Claudia and I ate together, the Hospitalero came in with some biscuits made by the local nuns, they were delicious. By then it was nearly bedtime!

It may seem really strange but I'm going to bed about 8pm. I don't go to sleep straight away but I do get 11 hours with my feet up!!

Wednesday 24th March

Castrojeriz to Fromista 25.38 kms

The day started OK but just as I got to a nice exposed place it started to rain. The early rain was not too heavy. Again we had a steep climb and a steep descent, lovely views from the top, though the rain meant we couldn't see too far. At Itero de la Vega it wasn't raining, so, after a coffee, I carried on. I'd only gone about half a mile and the heavens opened. There was absolutely nowhere to stop and put on waterproofs so I just had to get wet. There's something strangely liberating about being as wet as one can possibly get.

There are a couple of German lads on the go at the moment, their guide book doesn't give distances it gives times between places and as they are walking really fast they are always ahead of themselves so they have to stop in bars for long periods, one excuse anyway, so whenever I stop I find them there before me! I walked most of the bit between Itero de la Vega and Boadilla with the German lady who started in Burgos. She looks a lot happier now she has lost her Spanish friend, when we got to Boadilla there were the German lads, they are great fun, it was a great way of spending a while but soon my legs started to feel cold in my wet trousers so I made a move, a quick move as I walked the last 6kms in an hour, I didn't think I could do that with a backpack!

I've come to the private albergue again, I was not sure if this was a good move or not as I had to keep asking for simple things, like where to dry my soaking wet clothes! and the family were taking up all the space. Then Renata arrived and she found the german lads, who were even more unhappy in the Municipal as it was cold, so they moved in with us and brought 2 Slovenian cyclists as well, (Slovenia ..h'm.. I'm still working on that???) they spoke excellent English with American accents. The lads walked in and took over and with a couple of bottles of wine we had a super evening!! Rudi is one of those big lads with loads of personality, great to have about.

Thursday 25th March

Fromista to Carrion de los Condes 19.26km

What a bloody awful day!! Renata decided to get up before 6 and as she was awake she poddled about moving plastic bags and muttering. It's strange how a very nice, middle-aged woman can be so oblivious of other people sleeping! Eventually every one was up and by 7.10 I was ready to go! It wasn't raining and I found a cup of coffee at the next village so all started OK but after 5 Kms it started to rain and it poured and poured, along with a very strong wind from the left side, this should be south so I don't know why it was so flipping cold but it was miserable. The path was along the edge of the road and I just trudged along from one milestone to the next.

Any way the albergue in Carrion de los Condes is nice and warm and there was quite a reunion of old faces, I even met up with Vicenta again, whom I hadn't seen since day 2.

I also had an opportunity to visit a couple of the Monasteries, which were interesting. Good to do something cultural for a change!

Friday26th March
Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios 26.84 kms
Well!!!! We were awoken at 6.30 by loud music, polyphonic church music. They obviously wanted us out! I was on the way again just after 7, I bought a croissant in the bakery opposite and got moving. It was pretty cold but OK, then after a few kilometres, when I came to somewhere with some seats I sat for a drink of water and some chocolate. A little dog suddenly appeared, there was no-one there and no houses any where near and I couldn't get rid of the dog, it had decided it wanted to belong to me and it followed me, it would run ahead for a while and then come back to tell me it was still there! It walked with me for well over 10 kms!! The weather is horrible again today, not raining but a very strong cold wind coming from in front so walking is really difficult and it is probably one of the most difficult days in that there is no village and no protection for 18kms, you just have to keep going, it was bliss to arrive in Calzadilla de la Cueva and get a cup of coffee! Even the birds weren't singing today, and any bird that tried to fly seemed to fly backwards!

When I left there was a van with 2 guys from the roadways dept, or whatever, I asked them if they wanted a dog and they tried to help but doggy wasn't having any, he escaped from them and ran back to me, we had to cross some stepping stones as we left the village and the wretched dog sat on the stones! From then on the path ran close to the road and he kept running onto the road. I had to keep calling him back, then just as the path ran actually on the road the guys in the van came back and took him away, even then he nearly managed to get run over!

The houses here are made of Adobe, that's different, I always connected Adobe with Mexico.

To finish the Saga of the Slovaks!!! It's better than a soap, they have kept a low profile most of the week, mostly because there were no men around!

Alaine, the remaining French guy had gone on ahead, along with the Norwegian lady who started in Burgos. they were doing longer stages but, because of the weather they slowed down and we all met up in Carrion de los Condes. Mrs Slovak was instantly all over him, I wasn't very surprised but she did seem even more touchy/feelly than before. Mrs Slovak told us that we should all cook and eat together, I was not enthusiastic and Lilian, the Norwegian pointed out that we had all bought food individually, so it was agreed that we would all eat together at 7 pm. Apparently when Mrs Slovak had been here before the nuns had organised a group meal and she wanted to do the same. When I got back from my museum visits at 6ish I met Lillian outside and she reckoned that 7pm was late, especially as most seemed to want to go to Mass at 7.30 so should we eat now? I agreed and we went off to the kitchen. The kitchen was teeming with folks, the Spanish were just finishing lunch and the Germans were already eating tea. There was a queue for the hob so we claimed the table in the kitchen and opened 2 bottles of wine, we'd bought one each! Though I hasten to add that we didn't finish either of them! Eventually we prepared our meals and sat and ate in the kitchen, where we were joined by Renata and Claudia and a Spanish guy. During this time Mrs Slovak had prepared a meal for herself, Alaine and, presumably, her daughter. Later at bedtime she descended on Alaine's bed, he had the bottom bunk next to mine, I thought she was going to get in with him, but she just gave him a massage!

In Terradillos Lillian and I found ourselves together, we indulged in a jug of wine and started to chat. Initially just personal things, like jobs, kids, etc. It transpired that our jobs had been very similar and we shared a similar outlook on life, then we shared our outlook on the previous day! It seemed that Alaine had actually been coming on 'quite heavy' to her over the previous couple of days, he had also flirted with me off and on since Puente de la Reina. In Carrion he told her that he had met someone again that he hadn't seen for a few days, she thought it was me! She soon realised that she was wrong, but she also reckoned that we had been asked/told to join a communal meal at 7 so that they (Mrs Slovak and Alaine) could eat together earlier, because when we arrived at 6 she had already been preparing food for a while and they had finished eating almost before we started, so maybe I'm not so bitchy! Miss Slovak arrived at Terredecillas, on her own, at least, not entirely on her own she arrived with 5 others, Spanish and Korean, whilst Mum and Alaine stayed at Ledigos, the next night she turned up at Hermanillas completely on her own because her mother had told her that the Koreans had gone that way when in fact they had gone totally the other. Any way, here endeth the Saga, who knows what finally happens!!

Saturday, 27th March

Terradillos de los Templarios to Calzadilla de los Hermanillas 26.63 kms

Well, up early and on the way. Blue skies, still chilly and a bit of wind but much improved. After Sahagún there are alternatives to the route, I decided to take the Via Trajana for a while as it is away from the road. In Sahagún they were draping the windows ready for the Holy Week processions. The route from Sahagún was pretty but I was ready to stop when I got to Calzadilla, and ready for lunch, it was well after 2. When I arrived the Albergue was locked, I nearly cried, there was no indication of when it would open or how to get a key. Then an old woman appeared and asked if I wanted to get in! The place was fairly grim and dirty, I wondered again about my choice of Albergues. The woman said there is a bar but it doesn't sell food and the shop opens at 5, she was less than helpful really.

Soon 2 Belgian women arrived, they were doubtful about staying abut eventually decided that they would. Then I went to look for the bar to see if they served anything edible! On the way the shopkeeper saw me and yelled for me to come to the shop, so I bought bread, ham and a bottle of wine and returned to the albergue. I couldn't sit down to eat until I had cleaned, so I dusted the table and benches and swept and washed the floor then realised that if we were to be at all warm in the evening I needed to light the wood burning stove. I was just trying to light the stove when some Germans arrived, Peter immediately took over the firelighting (it is a man's job after all!) It took a while but life started to change, I started on my lunch whilst the Germans organised things! We had a lovely evening, we all ate together, eventually Nina arrived as well and it was really very pleasant. Albergues need people and warmth!

Sunday 28th March

Calzadilla de los Hermanillas to Mansilla de las Mulas 25.22 kms

Clocks went forward last night, so we made a pact that no-one would get up before 7.30. In fact the first one up was Peter at 7.40, trying to get the stove lit again! I had some breakfast then started off, I went across to the other Camino at El Burgo Ranero as the one I was on involved 24 kms without a bar or any possibility of a break.

Walking is hard today, my right leg is hurting at the shin, I'm not sure why, I wasn't sure I would make it all the way but a couple of beers and a sandwich at Reliegos just got me through! My earlobes are swollen and itchy as well, God know why, I haven't been walking on them. It could be weather as I'm putting sun creme on my face every day, just in case, but I haven't thought about my ears!


Telly tubby land!

So! End of the week. Leon tomorrow. 320 kms left, or there abouts.

What have I learnt this week!

1. That meeting and chatting to people on the Camino doesn't just mean the organised events (which I'm avoiding) but includes the spontaneous get togethers as well, so just to go with the flow and do it my way.

2. RESPECT! No matter what I may think of anyone as a person doing the Camino is not a walk in the park, so all deserve respect.

3. Find the belt for my trousers! They are now 2" too wide and are hanging around my ankles and the strap from my backpack makes me feel they are falling down.

Finally, Quote ot the week!
Me talking to Claudia about the night she spent at Boadilla. Me: How was it? It seemed very nice. Claudia: Well ...... it was full of Germans. Me: Claudia .. You're German! Claudia: Yes, but they're the kind of germans that I don't like in Germany, so I don't like them any where else.

Actually these were the same Germans whose company I enjoyed in Hermanillas!

Camino de Santiago, week 2

Monday 15th March Los Arcos to Viana 18.80 kms

If the Camino starts when you leave your house then this is now week 2! About 120kms done! The day started with German mother throwing a complete wobbly, she's not weird she's demented. Her mobile was ringing at 6.30 this morning, great for those of us who didn't want to get up so early! Then she couldn't find something, she was prancing around putting on lights! Eventually she was sitting on the bathroom floor, crying, because someone had stolen her bandage! It turned out that her daughter had it, but I am sure that I was the major suspect as I'd given her the evil eye when she put the light on.
The walk was quite good but I discovered a blister on my right heel that I had been unaware of until I had rubbed Vaseline over it so it was too late to put on a dressing. I walked the first 8 kms then stopped and put on a 'Compeed' but it's grown a bit. I stopped by a water fountain to have a drink then emptied what remained of my water so that I could refill it, only to discover that the fountain wasn't working, so I had to walk the last 11 kms. without water! It's quite hot now!

Almost perfect walking weather, apart from the occasional gusts of cold wind. Apparently tomorrow is going to start getting warmer.

I´m at the Municipal Albergue, here in Viana. The bunks are three high! Fortunately I'm on the bottom and they haven't needed to fill the top bunks! It's a nice little town. I'm finding that cooking for myself is only marginally cheaper than eating out as it is impossible to buy really small quantities of food and Spain doesn't do microwaveable meals like in England.


Tuesday 16th Viana to Navarrete 22.35 km

Into La Rioja and Logroño, I thought it was an easy day today but I miscalculated, it was nearly 24kms.

It was hot in bed last night, to start with, then it got cold and my legs ached. Genaro snored fit to bust, fortunately my earplugs were fairly effective, and my dear friends the crazy Germans got up at 6.30 and made loads of noise, so I gave in and got up. ( I discovered this morning why I'm carrying a loo roll across Spain, useful when you need it!). I left Viana at 7.15. unheard of for me. Though partly it was because I was a little concerned about albergues, my guide said that the Municipal in Navarette is closed and the private one only has 12 beds, but in fact the Municipal is open, so no probs.

Walking was a real effort today, I have blisters on my heels and I feel really tired and I didn't enjoy the walk at all. This was a shame as the walk took me through some beautiful countryside.

Laguna de las Canas

I had planned to stop for something to eat in Logroño, I had also planned to have breakfast in Viana, but everything was closed when I left, so no breakfast, then, just outside Logroño there is an old lady who serves coffee to pilgrims and gives a 'sello' (these are stamps on the 'credencial' or pilgrim's passport), I felt obliged to stop and have a drink there, but the coffee was awful, and then when I got to Logroño I was too lethargic to stop, which was silly. It took an age to get through Logroño and it was not well signed, from then on the walk could have been very pleasant, it was through a park and by a reservoir, but I was tired and disgruntled and the paths were all cemented and signed as cycle paths and half of Logroño was out for a morning stroll so I was pissed off!

I was passed twice by the same Spanish chap, one of those who is walking 30 -40 kms per day, he passed me twice because he stops for drinks! He told me my backpack was lopsided and helped to straighten it and then told me to send half my stuff home. I'm getting fairly fed-up with being told what to do by Spanish men but actually I decided that this one was maybe talking sense except that I really don't have much that I can get rid of. It's only March so I still have to be prepared for bad weather and I only have one change of clothes. I'm not sure why my bag weighs so much. Amy and I had a similar conversation in Estella, she had decided that her stuff was all indispensable! Anyway I did a bit of messing about and I will post some stuff home and see if it makes any difference.

I staggered into Navarette at about 1 p.m. to be cheered up the hill by the 3 who had preceded me, these were the Spanish guy, who was going onto Najera, and the Dutch mother and daughter, who were going like the clappers. Navarette is up a hill so the last bit was a big struggle. I found them sitting outside a bar by the Municipal Albergue, which would be open at 3 p.m. They all recommended it so I dropped my back pack and collapsed with a beer and a sandwich. I must learn to slow down and stop more regularly, this has been difficult as nothing has been open! But at the moment, with so few on the road, there is no need to rush for a bed, I just find it difficult to stop until I have finished, I think I am becoming obsessive/compulsive!
I was just finishing my lunch when who should turn up but Genaro, he had got a bus in the morning to avoid walking through Logroño so I was hoping he had gone on ahead, but no such luck, someone had told him that the walk from Logroño was lovely, so here he was. He went off to find a restaurant and I decided to go to the private albergue. Apart from the fact that he snores he

keeps telling me what to do and talks a lot of nonsense and I can't be bothered to put up with idiots. I don't know if it is just Spanish men of a 'certain age' who feel that women need someone to tell them what to do but , at the moment I am wishing that I don't speak Spanish. 

The private Albergue was a flat but not well provided for as the cooker didn't work but there were only three of us there and it was peaceful. The flat sleeps 10, but with only 1 family bathroom that would be too many, I think. I managed to cook pasta in the microwave for my evening meal, then as the other two were Spanish and German we had a weird Spanish/German conversation in the evening.

Wednesday 17th Navarrete to Azofra 22.63 kms

Bliss to wake up at 7.20, no noise! I posted a packet home then started walking, I feel better today but my feet are still on a go slow. I had a good breakfast as I bought some Chocolate energy drink yesterday and the other people had bought some cake and told me to help myself, so I did! I don't usually have chocolate and cake for breakfast but it was good. I don't think the drink gave me any energy! I promised myself that I would stop regularly today so I stopped in Ventosa for a drink and then in Najera for a beer and omelette, and then continued on to Azofra. I had phoned yesterday to check that the albergue is open and in a way it is but it is just the overflow Albergue, it's like a barracks. When I arrived there was no hospitelero and the rooms that were open were already full so I had to wait ages to get a room, one or two new faces but mostly the same ones.
At first the predominant language was German but then it changed a bit as there are 2 French and 2 Japanese. It's a lovely little village and the people are very welcoming.

I realised that I forgot to take an Ibruprofen this morning, I must do so tomorrow, my left heel feels like it is getting a pressure sore all day and really hurts - it clears up at night but doesn't take long to hurt again, my body is very tired!

The best thing about Azofra is that the mad Germans and Genaro aren't here!

Thursday18th - Azofra to Redecilla 26.91 (+3)kms

I took an Ibruprofen and I feel great. The Valencian (its awful I first met him in Pamplona and I don't know his name) said that he and Oscar are going to Redecilla, he says it's only 20kms, by my calculation it's 25! I may go as all the Germans are going to Grañon, also they cook so I may be able to join them for a meal.

I had a civilised break in Santo Domingo, I had coffee in the Parador, then I carried on.

It was still early so I decided to have lunch in Grañon then carry on to Radecilla, however there are roadworks outside Santo Domingo and they had closed the Camino and put in a deviation which took us several kilometres off track, we had to do 2 sides of a triangle and walk round a hill instead of walking over it. I reckon I walked 28 or 29 kms. Redecilla is very quiet and the shop shuts at 17.00 so I went to do some shopping, there was not much there but I bought some bread, salami, ham and some fruit in case anyone did turn up. I had some soup in my bag so I made myself some soup and was joined by a pussy cat. I kept ejecting the cat but it kept returning. Whilst I was eating 2 Spanish cyclists turned up, so when I finished I left the bread and the meats in a plastic bag on the table, when I went back into the kitchen the cat had eaten the ham. It's obviously a cat of refined taste because it left the salami!

During the afternoon I heard someone reading the Albergue's register, he was whingeing about something, it sounded like he was the Cura whingeing that I hadn't visited the church! Up till now all churches have been locked! Of course by the time I went to have a look this one was locked too, but it is supposed to be most impressive so I'm sorry I missed it.

I thought the village was quiet but the albergue is attached to a bar and it was the feast of San Jose, all night there were people coming out of the bar drunk, I was grateful for the presence of the cyclists. I'll watch where my albergue is situated in future!

Friday 19th March Redecilla to Vilafranca Monte de Oca 24.34 kms

According to my 'Credencial I only have 538 kms to walk. I walked 2 kms this morning and was met by a sign that says I have 567kms to walk!! When I got to Belorado there was a notice outside a bar saying 538 kms!! I'd love to know how they work it out. When I left Roncesvalles there was a road sign that said 790 kms to Santiago, if I subtract the kilometres that I have done that makes it 568 kms to do!
I remembered my Ibruprofen this morning and the walk was quite good. The only pilgrim I've seen today was one of the cyclists who was cycling on the road because his bum hurt! I bet it was more than just his bum!
Belorado is a lovely little town, I went to a super café for coffee and it had the best selection of tapas that I've seen for a long time, but it was too early for tapas. I also went to an exhibition on the Camino at the Information Office it had some good photos, the lady there asked me about the weather for walking, I tempted providence and said it was good so it started to rain the moment I left Belorado. Initially the rain wasn't too bad but there was a very strong wind from the front. I tossed up how far to walk and nearly stopped at Villambistia, the Albergue looked great but it was over a bar again, so I walked onto Villafranca, it seems to be mostly the same faces again.

Saturday 20th March
Vilafranca Montes de Oca to Atapuerca 18.44 kms

This morning was great, the second morning in a row that I have been able to wake up in my own time. I had a chocolate drink and some cake (again) and set off and it immediately started to rain. Today was a steep climb up the Sierra Demanda. the rain was heavy with a strong wind coming from in front and the hill was quite exposed. The blurb says that there are natural original woodlands here but the camino was surrounded by pine trees, the first bit was quite pretty but the rest was not a patch on the woods in Galicia. The path was very muddy, in a way the mud was easier to walk on than the dry tractor tracks of previous days but it was often very slippy.
San Juan Ortega was a disappointment, my guide says the bar owner is famous on the camino, I think this must be for his grumpiness! The rain got heavier and heavier, the last part of the walk it seemed to be hailstones some of the time. We all arrived at the Albergue absolutely soaked, I put all my clothes in to wash, it was a good opportunity, I sat in a sarong and jumper whilst they dried. By the evening the Albergue looked like a Chinese laundry, it was a super Albergue, a little more expensive but good value.
Lots of tourists around today and I still haven't managed to suss out how to shop at the weekend, the shops are difficult to judge on a Saturday, the one shop here had already shut at 12.30.
I am getting fed up of some of my companions now, with only a few pilgrims it is sometimes difficult to avoid people. My pet hate at the moment is the Slovakian mother and daughter. Firstly because they keep criticizing me, but also, when I arrived at Atapuerco the shop was already closed but as I had half a packet of soup and the meat the cat had left me I didn't worry too much. When the Slovakians arrived the mother got very distressed that she only had a few lentils left so I offered to share my soup! She wanted to eat at 6, which was fine, so I was there at 6, no sign of any one else though the soup was ready, then she turned up and said that she had already eaten, daughter didn't want to eat then either, so I ate and then daughter ate 5 minutes later!! Something about sharing food with friends comes to mind, obviously I'm not in that category! Still I can have the last laugh as daughter was late arriving at the Albergue and mother was very anxious as, she said, her daughter was very tired, when daughter arrived mother was not in the kitchen and daughter said that she had been in the Bar in Ages with some young folk,  and would happily walk much further!!!

Sunday 21st March,
Atapuerca to Burgos 20kms+/-
Not too early up again, the info says that the Municipal Albergue in Burgos opens at 14.00 so no rush. Mrs Slovak was in the kitchen when I was ready to leave, I asked her to pass me my boots as she was standing near them and she had spilt liquid on the floor, she looked at my boots most suspiciously and was most reluctant to let me have them, she seemed to think I was nicking someone else's. Am I becoming paranoid?
The walk wasn't bad, no rain today. I did the first part alone as usual, although there were 2 French guys relatively close to me. I think there is a new road outside Burgos, near the airport, as the route bore no resemblance to my map. Then there was a sign I couldn't decipher so I waited for the French guys. They had a great whinge that I had taken the wrong path at some point and now we had to walk 10 kms through industrial estates. Why in heaven's name did 2 grown men follow me if they had seen an alternative route that they thought was better??? Any way we arrived at the Albergue 1 and a half hours later so there's no way it was 10 kms.
I have cheated today. I have done what I often do in strange towns when I have no money, I found a beautiful restaurant, had a fantastic meal and paid with my credit card! I do believe that food is an important part of any experience and this visit to Burgos won't stand out for the walk but for the meal.

The albergue here is getting quite full, it is strange because up till now we have been 20 max and that was at Puente de la Reina, people seem to be turning up from all over the place, even some we have known from before and then lost. I have met some lovely people, but most of them moved off for one reason or another, I expected to meet lots of lovely people on the Camino, I forgot that there would also be some dysfunctional ones!!
End of 2nd week, what have I learnt?

1. Remember the Ibruprofen!
2. Ignore peoples criticism. My comfort zone says walk quickly, it was what I was doing when practicing and it makes me feel better. Arriving early at an Albergue gives me plenty of time to relax and recover.
4. Not to worry about others, each one has to sort things out for themselves.

It seems strange that the Camino is teaching me to be selfish but there you are!!

The Camino de Santiago

cd - 2
Tomorrow I get the train to Pamplona. Today I've packed my bag and started to feel very sick.
Why am I doing this? Not because I'm brave, mad more like.

My backpack seems to weigh a ton, not as much as Aidan's used to when he did the 'Coast to Coast' and such like, but then I'm not camping. The largest thing in my backpack is my sleeping bag and that doesn't weigh that much, the heaviest thing seems to be the shower gel/shampoo but I'll be damned if I'm going to stink, anyway that should get lighter on the way. I can't think of anything I can take out so it will have to go as it is, this is obviously going to be a slow camino! I wonder if anyone has ever limited it to 5 kms a day!! A problem with going at this time of year is that you do need clothes for all seasons, it will rain, the sun will shine and it may snow!

Of course there are important reasons why I shouldn't go: my tomato seeds have germinated but I haven't managed to find anything to prick them out into!! I'm new at this gardening lark, perhaps I should stay here and look after my plants! My paper work hasn't arrived for my car, it should have arrived 2 weeks ago! I've had to write a little letter to the postman and stick it on my post box! Hopefully he won't send the papers back.

Am I really mad? I'd like to just stick my head in a hole and let this all pass me by, then I could go and buy some knitting wool and sit at home and knit like old ladies are supposed to!

I've felt better going in for an exam!

cd-1

OK. Today I´m off!

The day started well with `wall to wall´ sunshine, though there had been a frost overnight. The taxi was on time, when we arrived at A Rua the driver invited me for a coffee, this a rather different version of tipping the driver! (I must point out I live in a rural community and I know the taxi driver's wife!) Then I sat in the sun and waited in pleasant anticipation. When the train arrived the temperature was 8 degrees. It started to cool down when we reached Astorga, but stayed around 5 or 6, till Burgos, then it started snowing and dropped to -1! Then it was pointed out to me that we were going to arrive late. I decided not to worry at that point and to toss up later whether it was going to be better to get a taxi to Roncesvalles or

spend the night in a hotel in Pamplona.

Just after Vittoria the train started to speed up and then almost instantly braked and we ground to a halt. Eventually a very distraught voice said something about having to wait because of an accident ahead. A little while later it became clear that the accident was ours. Our train had hit someone!!

It wasn´t clear at first if this was someone who had jumped in front of the train deliberately or a workman on the line. We sat there for over an hour, midst much speculation, then it became clear that this had been a workman, though why he had remained on the line when a train was coming is obscure. Finally we moved, but very, very slowly and we were told that we had to stop again at a small town up the line so the driver could collect his papers. I´m not sure if they replaced the driver at this point, we certainly moved quicker again afterwards. An officer did say that the man had survived.

We got to Pamplona 2 hours late so it was not worth me going to Roncesvalles, I had to find a hotel in Pamplona.

cd-1 (again)

I spent the morning wandering around Pamplona, I 'did' the Cathedral, then I checked on the Albergues as I was of the opinion that they were both closed. The municipal was closed, I spent ages wondering around the river area trying to find the other one as I took a misdirection when trying to follow the signs for the Camino back to front. Eventually I found it and it is open, so I will rethink my plans.

I had lunch in a super restaurant called Ñam, just of the Paseo de Sarasate. then I got the bus to Roncesvalles. There were two other pilgrims on the bus, one a woman from Ibiza!

There were 9 pilgrims in all at the Refugio. We all went to the Blessings Mass and then went for a meal. The refugio is drear, we are nearly sleeping on top of each other, the beds are packed so tightly together, and there's only one loo. Given that they want us to be out by 8am the morning should be interesting!

cd (Camino Day) Roncesvalles to Zubiri 22.14 kms

I won't say I slept well, I don't think I slept at all, certainly not much. I was trying not to sleep on my back so that I wouldn't snore!!

I aimed not to get up till nearly 8 but as everyone else was up and moving well before that I got up at about 7.30 and discovered that it was snowing, so I got myself all geared up and set off to find breakfast. I found a Café in the first village after about 3kms. I also found all the early risers still there. I left just before them but they soon caught me up. For a while we were a group of 6, then we became 2 groups of 3 as 3 were moving fairly fast. I hadn't planned on getting into a group but with the persistent snow it didn't seem that bad an idea to stay with others. Some stretches of the Camino were pretty bad. Coming down from the Alto de Mezkiritz the path has been paved (or rather it's imitation crazy paving), I'm sure it looks fine in summer but it was a 3km long, bloody skating rink today. Later the snow became heavier and all the downhill slopes became tricky, the ground was slate and both slippery and icy. A few falls were sustained, nothing serious, but progress was very slow in parts.

Apparently some had read a notice in Roncesvalles saying the Albergue in Zubiri was closed so people were talking about continuing 5.5 kms to the next Albergue. There was no way I could have walked another step, certainly not 5kms! My guide book said that there was a private Albergue, which there is, a little more pricey but well worth it.

We've ended up with 5 of us here. We have a girls room and a boys room!! 2 toilets and 2 showers, it's nice and warm, there's a fridge and microwave, a drinks machine, free internet and a place where we can sit and chat or play card games and things if we wanted to. Most importantly we don't have to be out by 8am!!

We've been told that the Albergue at the next village is unheated and there is no bar in the town!!

Day 2 Zubiri to Pamplona 20.05 kms

Everyone had said that they would be getting up late, but they didn't! I don't know what it is about this early rising, there was really no need today. Amy, who I was sharing a room with was up and out by 7am and the others were all up and about so I gave up and got up, I had a fruit juice, banana and cup of coffee and left just before 8. This time I walked on my own. The walk was a bit up and down but not too bad and the weather was lovely. I really wouldn't have wanted to do the early part yesterday, it seemed very long.

The snow, on the ground, lasted until about Irotz. It's made a big difference when walking. I'd been walking up and down hills with my feet in snow-plough and looking like a pregnant penguin!!

I took a couple of wrong turnings but managed to sort it out and got to Pamplona with no major problems. On the way I met the people who went to Lerreseoña, they had had a reasonable time, the Albergue had a kitchen so they cooked a meal and had a party! 2 of them had had the foresight to carry soup with them and 1 had German sausages!

I went to the Paderborn Albergue in Pamplona, it is run by Germans, they were really welcoming, we ended with a girls room and a boys room again. In the afternoon I went to buy a bum bag so I could sort out the weight of my bag and then in the evening we went for a meal.

Day 3
Pamplona to Puente de la Reina 23.89 kms

We had a good breakfast in the Albergue and then I started just before 8. Before I started they weighed my bag, it weighed just over 8 kilos! This is the day of the Alto de Perdon, it's only 700 metres but they say it is very steep coming down afterwards, in fact it wasn't too bad, except for the wind. There was a freezing cold wind. On the previous Tuesday the temperature in Pamplona, with wind-chill, was -7, today felt much the same!

When we got to the top we could barely stand, then as we struggled around the corner there was a man with a van, selling refreshment for pilgrims! A most unexpected and welcome sight!

The journey down wasn't as difficult as I expected and most of it was out of the wind and the sun was shining. The almond trees are in blossom and it was all very spring like.
The Albergue was busy, this is where the Aragonese joins the Frances and there were a lot more people. Essentially I continue to walk on my own but keep meeting up with Alec (Spanish) and Amy (Korean). We walked together in the snow the first day so we have become attached!

On the whole the 9 of us from the first day are still doing the same way but now we have lost 2.

Day 4 - Puente de la Reina to Estella 23.01.kms

This walk was supposed to be easy but didn't seem so. Some of the paths were very stoney.

I had a box of orange juice in the Albergue and decided not to stop for coffee until later. The market was just starting up so I bought an apple and got going. It was a lovely spring morning, the first day I have not warn waterproofs. The sun was shining and the almonds in blossom, but every so often there was a freezing cold blast of wind for a while, then it would improve. After Lorca the gusts became less frequent and not so cold. On the whole a lovely day but I was very tired by the end and my shoulders were killing me. I tried to reorganise the weight in Pamplona so bought a waist belt/bum bag but now I am carrying the weight of my back pack on my shoulders so they're really hurting. I was really glad to arrive at the Albergue, I got to Estella at 1.50 and the Albergue opened at 14.00 so I just sat on the step and waited.

Annie arrived without the rest of her group so we had a meal together, it took me ages to find the supermarket which was open but eventually I managed, it was nice to have a meal with veg for a change! I also had a bottle of wine that Alec had brought back from the Fuente de Vino!

Day 5 - Estella to Los Arcos 21.89 kms

Breakfast in the Albergue, then off to the Fuente del Vino, which wasn't flowing!! Later in Los Arcos they said that this could have been because of the cold last night! Also there was no Sello and no sign of Pablito either, a bit disappointing. The walk was fairly easy, a few hilly bits to start with then quite flat and the weather was almost ideal, still a few cold gusts but lovely scenery. The landscape looks glaciated, not sure if it is.

I arrived at Los Arcos about 13.30, time to shower and then for a meal with Amy, not much open here but we found a restaurant with a Menu del Dia at 11 euros which is a bit expensive but the menu was good. Unfortunately on the way we met up with Alec and another Spaniard. Alec is starting to get on my nerves, it has been suggested that he has a drink problem, I don't think so, I think he's just not very bright, he behaves stupidly and repeats things incessantly. I found him very embarrassing, his wine was very useful last night but I hope I can lose him somewhere. I found the meal very good, it was one of the few menus that had vegetables as a starter!

At the Albergue there was a major session of treating feet and then a general get together in the sitting room, great for listening. The Albergure is like a mini-museum, it has a mangle and loads of antiques type furniture as well. It's very cosy.

A very interesting evening, it's the week of the mothers and daughters! A Dutch mother and daughter who came over from St Jean Pied de Port on Wednesday, in the snow storm and then walked Roncesvalles to Pamplona (40km) and the mother is 70! Makes me feel a right wuss. Then there's a German mother and daughter who started in Cizur Menor (outside Pamplona). Daughter is OK, I think, but the mother is weird. Now there is a Slovak mother and daughter. The mother speaks excellent German and she has been explaining how, in her part of Slovakia, they learnt German because, under communism, it had been possible to get Austrian TV, without the authorities knowing, so they studied hard and had pen pals in East Germany to help their practice. Her daughter is very quiet but she speaks good English so maybe she will come out of her shell.

Here endeth the first week. I've walked about 120kms and am progressing well.