If the Camino starts when you leave your house then this is now week 2! About 120kms done! The day started with German mother throwing a complete wobbly, she's not weird she's demented. Her mobile was ringing at 6.30 this morning, great for those of us who didn't want to get up so early! Then she couldn't find something, she was prancing around putting on lights! Eventually she was sitting on the bathroom floor, crying, because someone had stolen her bandage! It turned out that her daughter had it, but I am sure that I was the major suspect as I'd given her the evil eye when she put the light on.
The walk was quite good but I discovered a blister on my right heel that I had been unaware of until I had rubbed Vaseline over it so it was too late to put on a dressing. I walked the first 8 kms then stopped and put on a 'Compeed' but it's grown a bit. I stopped by a water fountain to have a drink then emptied what remained of my water so that I could refill it, only to discover that the fountain wasn't working, so I had to walk the last 11 kms. without water! It's quite hot now!
Almost perfect walking weather, apart from the occasional gusts of cold wind. Apparently tomorrow is going to start getting warmer.
I´m at the Municipal Albergue, here in Viana. The bunks are three high! Fortunately I'm on the bottom and they haven't needed to fill the top bunks! It's a nice little town. I'm finding that cooking for myself is only marginally cheaper than eating out as it is impossible to buy really small quantities of food and Spain doesn't do microwaveable meals like in England.
Tuesday 16th Viana to Navarrete 22.35 km
Into La Rioja and Logroño, I thought it was an easy day today but I miscalculated, it was nearly 24kms.
It was hot in bed last night, to start with, then it got cold and my legs ached. Genaro snored fit to bust, fortunately my earplugs were fairly effective, and my dear friends the crazy Germans got up at 6.30 and made loads of noise, so I gave in and got up. ( I discovered this morning why I'm carrying a loo roll across Spain, useful when you need it!). I left Viana at 7.15. unheard of for me. Though partly it was because I was a little concerned about albergues, my guide said that the Municipal in Navarette is closed and the private one only has 12 beds, but in fact the Municipal is open, so no probs.
Walking was a real effort today, I have blisters on my heels and I feel really tired and I didn't enjoy the walk at all. This was a shame as the walk took me through some beautiful countryside.
Laguna de las Canas
I had planned to stop for something to eat in Logroño, I had also planned to have breakfast in Viana, but everything was closed when I left, so no breakfast, then, just outside Logroño there is an old lady who serves coffee to pilgrims and gives a 'sello' (these are stamps on the 'credencial' or pilgrim's passport), I felt obliged to stop and have a drink there, but the coffee was awful, and then when I got to Logroño I was too lethargic to stop, which was silly. It took an age to get through Logroño and it was not well signed, from then on the walk could have been very pleasant, it was through a park and by a reservoir, but I was tired and disgruntled and the paths were all cemented and signed as cycle paths and half of Logroño was out for a morning stroll so I was pissed off! 
I was passed twice by the same Spanish chap, one of those who is walking 30 -40 kms per day, he passed me twice because he stops for drinks! He told me my backpack was lopsided and helped to straighten it and then told me to send half my stuff home. I'm getting fairly fed-up with being told what to do by Spanish men but actually I decided that this one was maybe talking sense except that I really don't have much that I can get rid of. It's only March so I still have to be prepared for bad weather and I only have one change of clothes. I'm not sure why my bag weighs so much. Amy and I had a similar conversation in Estella, she had decided that her stuff was all indispensable! Anyway I did a bit of messing about and I will post some stuff home and see if it makes any difference.
I staggered into Navarette at about 1 p.m. to be cheered up the hill by the 3 who had preceded me, these were the Spanish guy, who was going onto Najera, and the Dutch mother and daughter, who were going like the clappers. Navarette is up a hill so the last bit was a big struggle. I found them sitting outside a bar by the Municipal Albergue, which would be open at 3 p.m. They all recommended it so I dropped my back pack and collapsed with a beer and a sandwich. I must learn to slow down and stop more regularly, this has been difficult as nothing has been open! But at the moment, with so few on the road, there is no need to rush for a bed, I just find it difficult to stop until I have finished, I think I am becoming obsessive/compulsive!
I was just finishing my lunch when who should turn up but Genaro, he had got a bus in the morning to avoid walking through Logroño so I was hoping he had gone on ahead, but no such luck, someone had told him that the walk from Logroño was lovely, so here he was. He went off to find a restaurant and I decided to go to the private albergue. Apart from the fact that he snores he
I was passed twice by the same Spanish chap, one of those who is walking 30 -40 kms per day, he passed me twice because he stops for drinks! He told me my backpack was lopsided and helped to straighten it and then told me to send half my stuff home. I'm getting fairly fed-up with being told what to do by Spanish men but actually I decided that this one was maybe talking sense except that I really don't have much that I can get rid of. It's only March so I still have to be prepared for bad weather and I only have one change of clothes. I'm not sure why my bag weighs so much. Amy and I had a similar conversation in Estella, she had decided that her stuff was all indispensable! Anyway I did a bit of messing about and I will post some stuff home and see if it makes any difference.
I staggered into Navarette at about 1 p.m. to be cheered up the hill by the 3 who had preceded me, these were the Spanish guy, who was going onto Najera, and the Dutch mother and daughter, who were going like the clappers. Navarette is up a hill so the last bit was a big struggle. I found them sitting outside a bar by the Municipal Albergue, which would be open at 3 p.m. They all recommended it so I dropped my back pack and collapsed with a beer and a sandwich. I must learn to slow down and stop more regularly, this has been difficult as nothing has been open! But at the moment, with so few on the road, there is no need to rush for a bed, I just find it difficult to stop until I have finished, I think I am becoming obsessive/compulsive!
I was just finishing my lunch when who should turn up but Genaro, he had got a bus in the morning to avoid walking through Logroño so I was hoping he had gone on ahead, but no such luck, someone had told him that the walk from Logroño was lovely, so here he was. He went off to find a restaurant and I decided to go to the private albergue. Apart from the fact that he snores he
keeps telling me what to do and talks a lot of nonsense and I can't be bothered to put up with idiots. I don't know if it is just Spanish men of a 'certain age' who feel that women need someone to tell them what to do but , at the moment I am wishing that I don't speak Spanish. The private Albergue was a flat but not well provided for as the cooker didn't work but there were only three of us there and it was peaceful. The flat sleeps 10, but with only 1 family bathroom that would be too many, I think. I managed to cook pasta in the microwave for my evening meal, then as the other two were Spanish and German we had a weird Spanish/German conversation in the evening.
Wednesday 17th Navarrete to Azofra 22.63 kms
Bliss to wake up at 7.20, no noise! I posted a packet home then started walking, I feel better today but my feet are still on a go slow. I had a good breakfast as I bought some Chocolate energy drink yesterday and the other people had bought some cake and told me to help myself, so I did! I don't usually have chocolate and cake for breakfast but it was good. I don't think the drink gave me any energy! I promised myself that I would stop regularly today so I stopped in Ventosa for a drink and then in Najera for a beer and omelette, and then continued on to Azofra. I had phoned yesterday to check that the albergue is open and in a way it is but it is just the overflow Albergue, it's like a barracks. When I arrived there was no hospitelero and the rooms that were open were already full so I had to wait ages to get a room, one or two new faces but mostly the same ones.
At first the predominant language was German but then it changed a bit as there are 2 French and 2 Japanese. It's a lovely little village and the people are very welcoming.
I realised that I forgot to take an Ibruprofen this morning, I must do so tomorrow, my left heel feels like it is getting a pressure sore all day and really hurts - it clears up at night but doesn't take long to hurt again, my body is very tired!
The best thing about Azofra is that the mad Germans and Genaro aren't here!
Thursday18th - Azofra to Redecilla 26.91 (+3)kms
I took an Ibruprofen and I feel great. The Valencian (its awful I first met him in Pamplona and I don't know his name) said that he and Oscar are going to Redecilla, he says it's only 20kms, by my calculation it's 25! I may go as all the Germans are going to Grañon, also they cook so I may be able to join them for a meal.
I had a civilised bre
ak in Santo Domingo, I had coffee in the Parador, then I carried on.
Bliss to wake up at 7.20, no noise! I posted a packet home then started walking, I feel better today but my feet are still on a go slow. I had a good breakfast as I bought some Chocolate energy drink yesterday and the other people had bought some cake and told me to help myself, so I did! I don't usually have chocolate and cake for breakfast but it was good. I don't think the drink gave me any energy! I promised myself that I would stop regularly today so I stopped in Ventosa for a drink and then in Najera for a beer and omelette, and then continued on to Azofra. I had phoned yesterday to check that the albergue is open and in a way it is but it is just the overflow Albergue, it's like a barracks. When I arrived there was no hospitelero and the rooms that were open were already full so I had to wait ages to get a room, one or two new faces but mostly the same ones.
At first the predominant language was German but then it changed a bit as there are 2 French and 2 Japanese. It's a lovely little village and the people are very welcoming.
I realised that I forgot to take an Ibruprofen this morning, I must do so tomorrow, my left heel feels like it is getting a pressure sore all day and really hurts - it clears up at night but doesn't take long to hurt again, my body is very tired!
The best thing about Azofra is that the mad Germans and Genaro aren't here!
Thursday18th - Azofra to Redecilla 26.91 (+3)kms
I took an Ibruprofen and I feel great. The Valencian (its awful I first met him in Pamplona and I don't know his name) said that he and Oscar are going to Redecilla, he says it's only 20kms, by my calculation it's 25! I may go as all the Germans are going to Grañon, also they cook so I may be able to join them for a meal.
I had a civilised bre
ak in Santo Domingo, I had coffee in the Parador, then I carried on.
It was still early so I decided to have lunch in Grañon then carry on to Radecilla, however there are roadworks outside Santo Domingo and they had closed the Camino and put in a deviation which took us several kilometres off track, we had to do
2 sides of a triangle and walk round a hill instead of walking over it. I reckon I walked 28 or 29 kms. Redecilla is very quiet and the shop shuts at 17.00 so I went to do some shopping, there was not much there but I bought some bread, salami, ham and some fruit in case anyone did turn up. I had some soup in my bag so I made myself some soup and was joined by a pussy cat. I kept ejecting the cat but it kept returning. Whilst I was eating 2 Spanish cyclists turned up, so when I finished I left the bread and the meats in a plastic bag on the table, when I went back into the kitchen the cat had eaten the ham. It's obviously a cat of refined taste because it left the salami!
2 sides of a triangle and walk round a hill instead of walking over it. I reckon I walked 28 or 29 kms. Redecilla is very quiet and the shop shuts at 17.00 so I went to do some shopping, there was not much there but I bought some bread, salami, ham and some fruit in case anyone did turn up. I had some soup in my bag so I made myself some soup and was joined by a pussy cat. I kept ejecting the cat but it kept returning. Whilst I was eating 2 Spanish cyclists turned up, so when I finished I left the bread and the meats in a plastic bag on the table, when I went back into the kitchen the cat had eaten the ham. It's obviously a cat of refined taste because it left the salami! 
I thought the village was quiet but the albergue is attached to a bar and it was the feast of San Jose, all night there were people coming out of the bar drunk, I was grateful for the presence of the cyclists. I'll watch where my albergue is situated in future!
Friday 19th March Redecilla to Vilafranca Monte de Oca 24.34 kms
According to my 'Credencial I only have 538 kms to walk. I walked 2 kms this morning and was met by a sign that says I have 567kms to walk!! When I got to Belorado there was a notice outside a bar saying 538 kms!! I'd love to know how they work it out. When I left Roncesvalles there was a road sign that said 790 kms to Santiago, if I subtract the kilometres that I have done that makes it 568 kms to do!
I remembered my Ibruprofen this morning and the walk was quite good. The only pilgrim I've seen today was one of the cyclists who was cycling on the road because his bum hurt! I bet it was more than just his bum!
Belorado is a lovely little town, I went to a super café for coffee and it had the best selection of tapas that I've seen for a long time, but it was too early for tapas. I also went to an exhibition on the Camino at the Information Office it had some good photos, the lady there asked me about the weather for walking, I tempted providence and said it was good so it started to rain the moment I left Belorado. Initially the rain wasn't too bad but there was a very strong wind from the front. I tossed up how far to walk and nearly stopped at Villambistia, the Albergue looked great but it was over a bar again, so I walked onto Villafranca, it seems to be mostly the same faces again.
Saturday 20th March
Vilafranca Montes de Oca to Atapuerca 18.44 kms
This morning was great, the second morning in a row that I have been able to wake up in my own time. I had a chocolate drink and some cake (again) and set off and it immediately started to rain. Today was a steep climb up the Sierra Demanda. the rain was heavy with a strong wind coming from in front and the hill was quite exposed. The blurb says that there are natural original woodlands here but the camino was surrounded by pine trees, the first bit was quite pretty but the rest was not a patch on the woods in Galicia. The path was very muddy, in a way the mud was easier to walk on than the dry tractor tracks of previous days but it was often very slippy.
San Juan Ortega was a disappointment, my guide says the bar owner is famous on the camino, I think this must be for his grumpiness! The rain got heavier and heavier, the last part of the walk it seemed to be hailstones some of the time. We all arrived at the Albergue absolutely soaked, I put all my clothes in to wash, it was a good opportunity, I sat in a sarong and jumper whilst they dried. By the evening the Albergue looked like a Chinese laundry, it was a super Albergue, a little more expensive but good value.
Lots of tourists around today and I still haven't managed to suss out how to shop at the weekend, the shops are difficult to judge on a Saturday, the one shop here had already shut at 12.30.
I am getting fed up of some of my companions now, with only a few pilgrims it is sometimes difficult to avoid people. My pet hate at the moment is the Slovakian mother and daughter. Firstly because they keep criticizing me, but also, when I arrived at Atapuerco the shop was already closed but as I had half a packet of soup and the meat the cat had left me I didn't worry too much. When the Slovakians arrived the mother got very distressed that she only had a few lentils left so I offered to share my soup! She wanted to eat at 6, which was fine, so I was there at 6, no sign of any one else though the soup was ready, then she turned up and said that she had already eaten, daughter didn't want to eat then either, so I ate and then daughter ate 5 minutes later!! Something about sharing food with friends comes to mind, obviously I'm not in that category! Still I can have the last laugh as daughter was late arriving at the Albergue and mother was very anxious as, she said, her daughter was very tired, when daughter arrived mother was not in the kitchen and daughter said that she had been in the Bar in Ages with some young folk, and would happily walk much further!!!
Sunday 21st March,
Atapuerca to Burgos 20kms+/-
Not too early up again, the info says that the Municipal Albergue in Burgos opens at 14.00 so no rush. Mrs Slovak was in the kitchen when I was ready to leave, I asked her to pass me my boots as she was standing near them and she had spilt liquid on the floor, she looked at my boots most suspiciously and was most reluctant to let me have them, she seemed to think I was nicking someone else's. Am I becoming paranoid?
The walk wasn't bad, no rain today. I did the first part alone as usual, although there were 2 French guys relatively close to me. I think there is a new road outside Burgos, near the airport, as the route bore no resemblance to my map. Then there was a sign I couldn't decipher so I waited for the French guys. They had a great whinge that I had taken the wrong path at some point and now we had to walk 10 kms through industrial estates. Why in heaven's name did 2 grown men follow me if they had seen an alternative route that they thought was better??? Any way we arrived at the Albergue 1 and a half hours later so there's no way it was 10 kms.
I have cheated today. I have done what I often do in strange towns when I have no money, I found a beautiful restaurant, had a fantastic meal and paid with my credit card! I do believe that food is an important part of any experience and this visit to Burgos won't stand out for the walk but for the meal.
The albergue here is getting quite full, it is strange because up till now we have been 20 max and that was at Puente de la Reina, people seem to be turning up from all over the place, even some we have known from before and then lost. I have met some lovely people, but most of them moved off for one reason or another, I expected to meet lots of lovely people on the Camino, I forgot that there would also be some dysfunctional ones!!
End of 2nd week, what have I learnt?
1. Remember the Ibruprofen!
2. Ignore peoples criticism. My comfort zone says walk quickly, it was what I was doing when practicing and it makes me feel better. Arriving early at an Albergue gives me plenty of time to relax and recover.
4. Not to worry about others, each one has to sort things out for themselves.
It seems strange that the Camino is teaching me to be selfish but there you are!!
Wow, you're LUCKY! When I was there, we slept on mats on the floor! The Priest there does a lovely Pilgrim's Mass! Sweet little place.
ReplyDeleteGood lord Susan not only are you doing the CF but you've just moved to Spain full time....respect!
ReplyDeleteI'm not surprised you need a little 'me time' after all of that either.
Treat yourself to some good meals and upmarket private accommodation when you need a bit of a pick up. I must say we never regretted any of the few days we 'went posh' and it's nice to have the contrast with the albergue experience.
Bonne route
Nell