Camino de Levante Week 2

Day 8 Albacete to La Roda 40km

Well! The best laid plans .....etc.
I got up early and started at 6.30, not because I planned a long day, I only intended to walk to La Gineta (20).



Originally I had planned to walk to La Roda and the info I had from the web said that this would be 36km, but it became one of the several 36 k days I hoped to avoid. When I saw, in my guide book that it was 40 km I was certain that I wanted to avoid it.
The walk to La Gineta was essentially more of the same, a wide expanse of not much, except that, from time to time, the crops were being sprinkled and not all the sprinklers avoided the path, so I had to hop and skip my way past them, not easy with a back pack.

 I got into La Gineta, which seems to be the furniture manufacturing capital of Spain, (there are at least 6 manufacturers and they were having an open day, so I promised myself a visit later) and went to the Town Hall to ask about the Albergue, NO albergue, just matresses on the floor of the Sports Hall and the Sports Hall would be being used until 10 p.m.! I went for a beer whilst I meditated on this and decided to continue. I stocked up on some food to have a picnic later and started walking. At the 30km mark there was a dilapidated house with a kind of Roman column, lieing sideways, outside so I sat for my lunch.
The walk from La Gineta to La Roda was into a head wind and I was thoroughly exhausted when I arrived, thankfully the Albergue in La Roda does exist, it is in the infirmary of the old bull ring, just on the way into town, I was very grateful to get there an collapse.

Stones collected from the fields

Day 9 La Roda to Minaya 17 km

A chozo

A lonely tree

I started today with the intention of walking the 36 km to San Clemente. I thought the accommodation in Minaya was mattresses on the floor of the Sports Hall as well, though the guide doesn't admit to there being any accommodation here!
I started well enough but I soon realised that I would never make it to San Clemente, my legs are just exhausted. When I checked my guide I discovered that there is a hotel in Minaya so I decided to go for that. When I went into the Town Hall, for a stamp, they told me that there is a room in the Sports Hall, with bunks :) So I've opted for that, it was noisy as the local youth were playing some ball game till 22.00, but at least I was laying down resting. Everyone was very welcoming and I could use the computer in the library:)

entering Minaya

A windmill just outside Minaya

A much older and not so complete windmill!

Day 10 Minaya to San Clemente 18 km

The signs in Minaya are very subtle and the vegetation and landscape, from just before Minaya to Casas de los Pinos, is different from what went before or what came later. The stones that are turned up from the land have been turned into walls, instead of just piles, and there are more trees, it is much prettier.

Every home should have one! Many do but I'm not sure what for!

A welcome sign at Casas de los Pinos

Yesterday, as I walked towards Minaya, I could see the 'cold front' that was supposed to cover all of Spain, it didn't seem to move, just sat ahead of me. This morning the sky was overcast but as I left Minaya I saw that I was now leaving the cloud and for the rest of the day it was just 'wall to wall' sunshine, though with a very cold wind.

They get everywhere!

The tourist office in San Clemente

the Poor Clare convent

the entrance to the church

San Clemente is a lovely historical town, the albergue has only 3 beds, though there is space for more. I am very grateful that San Clemente has inaugurated an albergue, and I am quite appreciative that it is free but I would rather pay and shower in warm water!
I had lunch out, as there are no cooking facilities, it is only the second time that I have had a meal out but both times I have been very fortunate in my choice of restaurant, the food was really good and the waiters were most attentive, because I'm a pilgrim.
Day 11 San Clemente to Las Pedroñeras 23.7 km
Today was the least well signed day that I have had and there were discrepancies between the path signed and the guide but I made it!
Castilla La Mancha is strange, there are no small villages, just odd houses standing on their own in a wide expanse of countryside. The urban areas are all small to medium sized towns, all with lots of history.

on the way

Santiago de la Torre

There is no albergue in Las Pedroñeras, there is a Parish House that is supposed to have 2 beds for pilgrims, but I couldn't find it, so I stayed at Casa Mauricio, a strange old house, divided into small apartments and bed-sits, mostly let out to teachers during the term, it is very 60's and very cold. I went out for a walk but it was really cold so I went back and sat in front of the TV, on a really uncomfortable settee, wrapped in my sleeping bag, until I gave up and went to bed very early.
Day 12 Las Pedroñeras to El Toboso 31 km
Las Pedroñeras does not welcome pilgrims. The arrows seemed to stop at the beginning of town and started again at the end. I found the route out by accident when I was looking for the Parish House!
Having gone to bed very early, because I was cold, I was up very early as well and I started at 6.30. There was a bar open on the way out, which surprised me but I decided to wait until Pedronero, the next town. The morning was freezing, I wore my jacket for the first time and had ear protection and gloves but I could have done with a face mask.
The guide was wrong and said that I should turn right to leave the town. I read this after I had taken my life in my hands, dodging lorries, as I crossed the road. I was sure it was a left hand turn and it was, fortunately I saw the arrow before I tried dodging lorries again.
Las Pedroñeras is the garlic capital of Spain and I was accompanied by the pervasive smell of garlic as I left.
The countryside is undulating now, not flat flat, which meant that there were a few little slopes, but not much, and it made the views more interesting.
Today was a long walk, made much easier by the fact that there were 3 watering holes on the way. It makes such a difference sitting down in a bar for a coffee and having a proper relax.
On the way towards Sta. Maria de los Llanos a tractor stopped and the driver wished me 'Buen Camino'. He said that he is a 'caminante' and has done various caminos. I don't know if it was because of him but the signs in Sta Maria were very good.

one of the oldest windmills, predating Cervantes!

Door of an old hospital with the cross of Santiago

Leaving Sta Maria

The sign reads 'Forbidden to tip rubbish'! For about 2 kms up the road both sides of the road had been covered in rubbish and that field is just covered.

windmills outside La Mota del Cuervo

In La Mota, apart from windmills, I found a bar in the main square with tables outside in the sun. I'm noticing that bars seldom have tables outside and when they do there is so much plastic protection around that the smoke doesn't dissipate, so it is unpleasant. I've also noticed people smoking in bars, the police don't seem to pay much attention. Anyway, here I was able to sit outside and enjoy a rest and take my boots off.

The Town Hall Square in La Mota del Cuervo

the library in El Toboso

Now I'm in El Toboso, a real marker, I've been looking forward to coming here. There is even a house called Dulcinea's house, a bit like marking a house in Baker Street as the home of Sherlock Holmes! But for all that I have really been looking forward to being in Don Quixote country.

The church in El Toboso

Day 13 El Toboso to La Villa de Don Fadrique 27 km
The hotel had said that the bar would be open at 06.45 but it wasn't. At 6.55 I left my keys and started walking, fortunately I found a bar open a bit further on.
Another cold morning, but not as cold as yesterday. It is supposed to be getting cloudy and may rain tonight.

The occasional tree!

The route is well signed with yellow arrows on a blue background, occasionally it says Camino de Sureste but I am following the route in my guide book.
The first stop was in Quintanar de la Orden, I had a coffee and bought some food for lunch then started to leave. Initially I was following tiles on walls but then I saw tiny little stickers on lamp posts and I followed those, then they petered out. I had to ask for directions and when I found the right place the tiles were there again so I think someone was taking the mick.

spot the tiny arrow!

In Don Fedrique I am in a Casa Rural, apart from being warm for a change I am also having my clothes washed, marvellous.

entering Don Fadrique, Don Quixote

Day 14 La Villa de Don Fadrique to Tembleque 29km +
I asked to have breakfast at 07.00 but, somehow, I managed not to put my alarm on properly and I woke up at 08.10! I felt really guilty but Juan only seemed to be bothered that I would have to walk in the rain, he couldn't understand that I am used to walking in the rain.
It rained up to Villacañas, the only break of the day. To enter the town you have to cross the railway line, there is a pedestrian bridge, this is well signed with arrows. I vaguely noticed some other signs but I only took in the arrows. On the way across I discovered that the bridge is very dilapidated and that the hand rail has broken off, very dangerous, I was glad to get to the other side, when I got across I read the other notices saying 'Bridge dangerous' 'Do not cross'. However there were no indications of an alternative route.

The town was much bigger than I expected and more interesting than the ones I had been staying in. From here on the walk was along the side of the road and I miserably counted off the kilometres. In Tembleque I stayed in the 3*** hotel as it was the only option available, it was very nice, nice and warm and I soaked in a hot bath to get rid of some of my aches and pains.
It is a town with a wonderful old Main Square.
  




Camino de Levante

Valencia Cathedral

Valencia 4th March
Here I am ready to start. It's been a long day. I was wondering last night why I am doing this and whether it wouldn't be sensible to just turn off my alarm and forget about it, but here I am.
I flew here [ Ryanair], not something I do very often for a camino, at security the woman checked my 2 bags of liquids/creams with great care but she let them through, it was only when I arrived in Valencia and heard loads of announcements about liquids, and only 1 bag in the hand luggage that I realised how lucky I had been, I suspect that it was because I left from Santiago airport, other airports are probably less forgiving of pilgrims.

Day 1
Valencia to Silla 15k
A short day, and done without a backpack, so I didn't feel like a pilgrim.

The Church at Alfafar

 The route was well signed, right from the cathedral of Valencia, the best signed city centre I've ever seen. Most of the day it was through commercial and industrial zones but Alfafar was pretty. I also managed to do a bit of shopping that I needed. I returned to Valencia by train, in time for the 'mascletá'. Valencia is in Fallas, the 3 weeks of celebration leading up to the feast of Saint Joseph on the 19th March. 

the mascletá

the mayoress and the Falleras on the Ton Hall balcony

Falleras with the men who organised today's fireworks

Day 2 Silla to Algamessi 23kms
I took the train to Silla. Today I have my backpack and feel like a pilgrim. The route was mostly well signed but I did get lost in the towns, even though they are not very big. I have learnt that I need to read my guide book!
After Benifaio I was stopped by a man in a car, an 'amigo' checking on how pilgrims are finding the signs. He explained that some towns are not very amenable to signage!
Today the walk was still flat but through orchards, not through industrial estates like yesterday. Algamessi is lovely and so is the albergue. It is all very pilgrim friendly.
Day 3 Algamessi to Xativa 30.4 k

A  covered cross

The walls of Alzira

The chirch in Alzira

I got up earlier than I planned but not early enough. It was a long walk and it got very hot by the afternoon.  The temp was in the mid 20's in the sun and there was no shade.

This felt appropriate!

Xativa is a very interesting town, fortunately I have visited before as I am far too knackered to visit it today.

Day 4 Xativa to Moixent 27.9 km
A better day than yesterday, still sunny but there's a bit of breeze and thin cloud,and none of the horrible little flies that bothered me yesterday. There were even a few kilometres that weren't on tarmac. The scenery is improving as well as there are hills around, it's more picturesque.
More sociable as well, it's Sunday and lots of people are out and about. 6 people wished me 'buen camino'; a man in a van stopped to ask me if I was going to Santiago and an old man in a car stopped and asked where I was going, when I said 'Santiago' he drove on but then he stopped again and offered me a lift. He didn't say whether he meant Santiago or the next town! I graciously declined so he gave me an orange instead, I've been eating a lot of oranges recently, though by the end of today there were far fewer orange trees.

Moixent, from the Albergue

Day 5 Moixent to La Font de la Figuera 17.9km+
My guide book says 17.9 but that is from the edge of Moixent and I was in the albergue about 1km on the other side of town, other signs say 19.8!
It was just as well that it was a short day as I had a bad night. I was awake for a while, feeling vaguely queasy, then I got up for a drink of water, then I was sick, I've no idea why but it left me very hesitant to have breakfast this morning. In the end I risked having a cup of coffee but nothing to eat.
The walk was lovely, the first 7.5 km was uphill but through countryside; fields of olive and almond trees and the occasional vineyards.

Pretty flowers!

changes in scenery

It has been another warm day but there was some respite as some of the walk was through pine forests.There were no villages but I found a place to sit down at about 9 km. I had some fruit and nuts and that kept me going till I arrived but I was desperate for food when I got here.
The albergue is new and has a lovely kitchen, but no pots and pans yet, as it is free and there is no donation box I have bought a couple of pans and some dishes, which I will leave, so I can prepare my own food and be certain of what I am eating :)

This is the sign for the Via Augusta, it was present till shortly after La Font de la Figuera

Day 6 La Font de la Figuera to Almansa 27.9km

leaving La Font

I got up early to try and walk before it got hot. The first 5 km were uphill but pleasant, past vineyards and through Mediterranean pine forests. Then it got flat and hot. Initially there was evidence of an overnight frost, we are now at 700m.

Torre Chica

What a waste of a road!

I am finding the incessant sun too much, if I wanted to walk in the sun I would walk in summer! There was no shade anywhere and nothing to sit on so even sitting down for a rest was difficult. I stopped for a lunch break sitting against the wall of an abandoned factory.

arriving in Almansa

I think this must be for history lessons

By the time I got to Almansa I was exhausted. I'm staying in, what I expected to be, a convent but it seems to be an 'old peoples' home, run by nuns. All I want to do is sleep. I think it's time to admit that I'm in the right place, I'm an old person.

another view of Almansa castle

The Town Hall

inside the Town Hall

The church

a plaza

the fountain

Day 7 to Albacete
I have realised that I have made a big mistake, I have committed myself to a fixed schedule, this is something I never do. I always have a vague timetable but it has flexibility.  This time I have: reserved a bed in Toledo; I want to be in Zamora for Good Friday and I have booked, and paid, an albergue for Easter Sunday. This meant that this next weekend I was committed to 3 days of 36km, the alternative was to do 38km today, after yesterday I know that this impossible. The temperature today is set for 25 degrees. I've also found that the distances I had are not the same as the ones in the guide book, the distance for today may be either 32kms or 40, depending on the source of information.
I gave this a lot of thought as I trudged along yesterday and the answer was to take a train from Almansa to Albacete, this will ease the next few days and give me a rest day today and, probably, an extra day in Toledo.
So there we go, I've cheated again, hopefully soon some clouds will appear.

Albacete cathedral

The scissor museum