Santiago to Muxia

Saturday: Santiago to Negreira 22 kms
I got up at 7am, had a quick breakfast and left at 7.30. I saw some people starting but it suddenly dawned on me that, if most of the people walking had done the Frances they would be used to starting before 6h, as they are used to starting early so as not to find the albergues full. I met quite a few people, this is strange for me as my last few caminos have been very quiet. It was a pleasant walk. I've done this stretch before but last time it was pouring with rain. There were more ups than I remember, I suppose there were more downs too but I don't dislike them.

My last view of Santiago

I got to Negreira about 12.30. I had the idea that the last time I was there the door was open but that the hospitalera was not there all the time, so I hoped I would be able to go straight in. As I passed the supermarket I checked that it would be open later then went straight up. I got there at 12.40, the note on the door said that it opened at 13.00 but it was open and nearly full!  Some of the people seemed to have been there for quite a while, and had done there shopping. I got the feeling that I would not be needing an alarm in the morning!!

The albergue is in a lovely spot and the weather was super, ideal for washing and drying outside. The showers are not to my liking as there are no doors and they are so placed that, if anyone should open the outer door just as you get out of the shower you are visible from outside. I have great memories of this shower room because last time I was there I arrived with a very wet towel, far too wet to dry on, so I tried to dry myself under the hand dryer! Fortunately there were fewer people there in October:)

The cooking facilities are less than ideal. There was equipment, just not enough space for cooking when there are lots of people. As I hadn't really had any lunch I decided to cook early and beat the crowds, from then on the rush started and there was constant use of the kitchen all evening. It was one of those occasions when it would have been sensible to have a joint meal, but it was the first day, lots of languages and not enough seating.

When I went to bed I discovered that I had chosen the wrong bedroom. There had been a spare bed in both when I arrived, I had chosen the room that was west facing and the sun had been streaming in all afternoon.

Sunday: Negreira to Olveiroa  35kms

Well I was right about not needing an alarm, there were 8 of us in the room and 4 got up at 5.30, they were not very quiet. When they left at 5.45 the American couple got up so I decided to get up at 6am. I discovered that the Spanish lad next to me had set his alarm for 6 too, so we were all up!

I was one of the last to leave, even so I was overtaken by people, mostly the same people I had seen yesterday, they must have gone to private albergues, but it was nice to see some familiar faces.

The weather forecast had said hot weather but it was wrong. It started sunny but soon became overcast, which was a great relief. The walking seemed heavy going, especially as people kept passing me, I felt like I was on a go slow, then suddenly I came to the first bar, it was at 13kms and I hadn't realised that I had walked that far, it was full of people, including many who had got up at 5.30.

After a cup of coffee and some chocolate I felt revived. I continued walking and passed a municipal albergue!

It had obviously not been use for some time. I had vaguely contemplated walking on to here, rather than staying in Negreira, I'm glad I didn't!

The next 7 km of my walk went quite quickly. I stopped for a second coffee, then the weather really changed. It was not heavy rain, just misty wet, still it was better than strong sun. I was going to stop for lunch at about 2pm but realised that this would not be very far from Olveiroa and I was fairly sure that the albergue would be full and I would have to walk on another 3 kms, so I decided to carry on and test my luck. I arrived shortly after 2 and saw people going in and out of doors. I saw a French man I had seen the previous night and asked him if it was full, the answer was no, but go into that door there, there's a bathroom. I found this information a bit confusing, so he repeated it. I was still confused, I understood the words but not the sense, anyway I did as I was told. I found a sweet little cottage with a bunk and a bed upstairs and a bunk bed downstairs, only the top bunk was vacant but I grabbed that, then I investigated. The albergue covers several old houses in a small street in a small

village. One house housed 2 big dormitories and the showers, one had 6 beds upstairs but no wash facilities and one was my little cottage. When I grabbed the top bunk I was a bit doubtful as I recognised the sleeping bag on the bottom bunk, it was the young Spaniard I had been next to the previous night and he had been less than friendly. He continued to be unfriendly!
I went to the bar for a beer and met 3 people from Negreira, a Danish woman, a Belgian man and the French man who had pointed me to the cottage. The others recognised me and called me to join them, the French man had no idea he had seen me before, just shows how unremarkable I am, he had only pointed me to the cottage because I had addressed him in French:)
After my beer I went back to the cottage to rest my weary feet. I had no problem getting up to my bunk but quite a bit getting down so I decided to be really organised. lol I got up and realised I had forgotten my specs so I had to get down again, then the outer door, a stable door, blew open in the wind, by this time it was pouring with rain, so I got down again to lock the lower half of the door. When my 'bunk-mate' appeared I explained about locking the lower half of the door, he merely grunted.
I eventually got my self organised and later, when my bunk-mate re-appeared he was all smiles and apologies, sometime in the afternoon it had dawned on him that he had understood what I had said. Once he discovered that we had a common language there was no stopping him from talking. There were not many Spaniards and I think he was feeling just a little isolated, not a good feeling in your own country.
There were no blankets in our cottage but a Chinese girl upstairs said there were loads in the big dorms so I went to try my luck. I got a blanket but they are very thin weave. It was a case of using my fleece blanket, that blanket and going to bed fully dressed. The hospitalero said the heating would come on at 11pm, which it did but it was only just warm enough. Old stone houses are designed to keep out the warmth, and the cold.
Monday:
Olveiroa to Muxia 28 kms
I slept pretty well, I was just about warm enough. I got up at 6 and started early. It was a pleasant morning, it had stopped raining and dried out. The early part of the morning was steeply uphill so I was walking slowly and was quickly overtaken, first by two women, one Spanish and one Italian, they had become friends on the camino and talked non-stop, as they passed I asked them how they managed to talk and walk uphill so fast, they said it was the poles. Then some French people passed me, again with poles. I let them go and ambled on. I then pondered on why it was necessary to go so fast. I know that I am very slow on hills and I don't think that poles would help me, it is my lungs not my feet that slow me down but on the flat I enjoy wandering at my own speed, sometimes slower, sometimes faster but looking around.

The dividing point!

The walk was lovely, at least for the first 20 km, then it started to get wetter, though it was not too bad.  

A horreopede!

 Early views of Muxia

 

The weather was kind until I arrived in Muxia. There was heavy rain then a break, so I decided to take advantage of the break and to visit the Sanctuary and see the sights that draw people here. Unfortunately the break was very short, then it poured and there was a strong wind. I got to the sanctuary but I was soaked and I really couldn't see anything. At least I had the satisfaction of knowing that I had made the effort. I went back to the albergue to dry off and change my clothes.

The Albergue was full and only 3 of us had come from Muxia, the rest were from Finisterre so I would have imagined that they would know each other but they did not communicate at all, except the few who were travelling companions. Only once did I hear two people recognise each other from some earlier moment.

Tuesday: to home

It was not a good night, quite a bit of snoring and I couldn't get comfortable. I just wanted to get up and go home! I had put my alarm on for 6 but by 5.45 people were moving so I turned it off and got up. It didn't take long for most people to be up.

It was another lovely clear morning.

Early morning views.

As I sat on the bus I reflected on how pilgrims (mostly other Europeans) must appear to Spaniards Only one woman said "Hola" to the driver, and I'm afraid it wasn't me, I would normally say; "Buenos dias" as I get onto a bus so I don't know where my manners had gone either. The driver was pretty surly with all of us and there was a sign up, in 4 languages, saying: no eating and drinking and don't take your shoes off; I wonder what kind of experiences have led to a poster like that.

I had a long wait in Ourense and time to reflect on my experience; I hope never to do another camino in June (or July or August) unless it is one of the quieter routes. I feel very sorry for people who can only walk over the summer months as this early morning rush to get to the next albergue, in order to get a bed, is a very sorrowful experience.

I have also done an interesting test of socks, this was unintentional, but having lost a pair of new socks in Caceres, and having decided to do a spur of the moment camino, I walked with 2 very different pairs of socks. One pair was definitely not to be recommended, had I been wearing them all the time I would have had major problems, I have decided that blisters and foot problems are to do with socks and not boots, now I just have to find a second pair of good socks:) Though I also need new boots before starting the Cami Catalan next spring:) 



 

 

 

 











Camino Ingles!

Sunday
Here I go again, I've had a brainstorm. I decided yesterday that I will start the Camino Ingles tomorrow. This decision came out of the blue, it means I will be walking in my old boots! The weather is cool at the moment, yesterday was very wet, but it is set to improve. In fact the temperature in Santiago is promised to be about 30 degrees next weekend so I may regret this decision, though it does mean that I will not have to carry a sleeping bag this time. I have my silk liner and I've cut down a fleece throw to make a small blanket, just in case I cannot find blankets in some of the albergues. I will walk Ferrol to Santiago, then Santiago to Muxia.
My bag is almost packed:)

Monday

Another very early start to get the bus to Ourense, then on to A Coruña and Ferrol. I arrived in Ferrol at 13.15, as we approached the bus station we drove through the Plaza de España, which was where I hoped to pick up my credencial, so it was easy to find my way back. That particular place no longer does 'credencials' but the security guard told me where to go and it was quite close by. In fact they didn't give me a proper credencial but a scrappy piece of paper, but as I wasn't sure that I would be able to get to Ferrol before 2pm I had made myself a credencial so I very soon reverted to mine.

I walked down to the port to start at the beginning. At the Tourist office they told me there was a pillar engraved with the name of the Camino Ingles, I expected it to be near the port but it was on the other side of the road so it took me a long time to find it but eventually 2 men pointed me in the right direction.

It was 2pm before I eventually started walking and then I needed to stop for lunch. I found a garden opposite the Parador, it belongs to the Navy but is open to the public.

 The signs through Ferrol were sparse and not always where I expected them, eventually I got out of town and out to the dockyards. I'm not sure what was happening below but I think it was a protest about the number of people now out of work from the ship building or docks.

 The walk was along the Ria and river Xubia. It kept trying to rain but it was warm and there was a breeze so I reckoned that if I got a bit damp I would probably dry out again. I was only planning to walk the 12 kms to Neda as I had started very late.

I must have got lost somewhere, I'm sure I followed the signs and I found the monastery I was supposed to find but the signs had completely disappeared. I knew that I was supposed to be walking along the river bank so I carried on following a path and crossed the river on a footbridge next to the railway line.

I got to Neda on the wrong side but a young man helped me and took me to the library as the librarian is responsible for organizing the camino in this area. He phoned the hospitalero and got him to pick me up. He also suggested that I should walk to Betanzos the next day, not Miño as I had planned. He said that Betanzos is worth spending time in. The Albergue was busy, 3 Brits, 4 Italians and 1 Hungarian.

Tuesday Neda to Betanzos 31 kms.
Up at 7am then off to a bar for breakfast, on the way I took a photo of the bridge I had crossed the day before.

Neda is a very long town, running along the river, I had to walk a long way to find a bar but it was in the right direction. Then I started the walk proper, it started with a steep climb, and this more or less set the scene. The climbs just got steeper. After a while Soltan, the Hungarian guy, caught up with me and we spent the day passing each other from time to time. It was nice to see someone.

I stopped for a coffee in Pontedeume, from there it seemed just straight up hill.

 

 

From Pontedeume it was another 13kms to Miño, mostly up but just a few downs, just enough downs to make you wonder why you went up in the first place. By Miño I was gagging for a beer so I stopped for a lunch break, then continued to Betanzos, most of that was uphill too!

I passed some pretty flowers, pretty places and lovely views. The sea views and views of the Rias are lovely, much more appealing than the sea views on the Portugues. The weather was very warm, it seemed to be hot and sultry, and yet there was also a breeze and as the sun was not shining it was not uncomfortable. The route was very well signed and I only got lost once and that was not serious, I was rescued by a young lady who set me on the right track again.

 2 views of walking into Betanzos

Betanzos is a lovely medieval town and the albergue is an old house that has been reclaimed, it only opened recently.

The Albergue.

Above are some views of Betanzos.

 

I picked up an orange during my walk, it had fallen off a tree, onto the road, it was the only bit of ripe fruit I found but it was lovely and sweet, I just needed it at the time as it was a long walk.

We were not many in the Albergue, 5 young Spanish, Soltan and I. Tomorrow we go to Bruma but the worst of the walking should be over now as the rest is not so steep.

Wednesday: Betanzos to Bruma

I slept well, there were no blankets so I was glad of my fleece but I also needed to add my towel during the night, after that I was warm enough.

I started my walk confidently as I had a map and the hospitalero had marked the route out of town. It soon went wrong! I walked 4 kms out of Betanzos, down the road I was sure I should take. I was supposed to come to a roundabout and turn left, instead I came to a road junction, the N -VI. To the right was signed Lugo and Madrid, to the left A Coruna. I knew I didn't want Lugo or Madrid and I wasn't going to walk back the 4 kms so I decided to head towards A Coruna, I was sure that if the worst happened I would simply cross the Camino from A Coruna. I walked 2 or 3 kms then came to another junction, this said Betanzos and Ferrol, but also Meson do Vento, I had seen that name in my info so I decided to take that route. I turned down the slip road and discovered that I was still in Betanzos, I had simply walked a very big circle. The signs said 23 kms to Meson do Vento, this was promising as my info had said it would be 28kms to Bruma and I knew the two were close so I carried on, still hopeful that I would catch up with the camino in Abegondo. It was all road and heavy going but at least I could count down the kilometres, and there were bars so I got a coffee stop. When I got to Abegondo there was no sign of the camino but I got my credencial stamped at the Town Hall and carried on. The distance marks were variable, they didn't always match with what had gone before.

I passed a little chapel and a medieval cross that looked as though they should have been on the camino. The cross had been moved from somewhere but it wasn't clear where.

Eventually I came to an arrow, it lead me off the road, through dense grass, then through a wood then round 2 sides of a field then back onto the road, very close to where I had come off. The camino often seems to do this, it seems to be just to make us walk further. Once back on the road I came to another bar and stopped for a beer and a sandwich, it was a great relax. The landlady said it was only 2 to 3 kms to Bruma, I hadn't reckoned on it being so little so I was a bit doubtful but I found the turn off for the camino very quickly and it seemed a very short time before I saw the sign for the Albergue, with the hospitalera standing outside.

It seems that Bruma does not really exist as a place, it was the site of a medieval 'hospital' so was the first place to have an Albergue on the modern camino. It is a tiny hamlet in the country, but a lovely old building and the hospitaleros were lovely. It became very busy, by my standards anyway, we were 14! 7 Italians, 5 Spanish, 1 Hungarian and me.

 

Thursday Bruma to Sigueiro  25 kms

It was pouring with rain when we got up. The hospitalero had said that there would be a bar open at 8 kms, then nothing, so we all headed off for an 8 km walk for breakfast. on the way we passed some interesting sculptures.

 

The 2 young Spaniards and Soltan were walking all the way to Santiago, the rest of us were going to Sigueiro. I have seen this all estimated at various distances but the hospitalero said 25 kms to Sigueiro, which I reckon was right. The rain eased off as we were walking and stopped before 9. I got to the bar at 9 and had a coffee, toast and jam and then a second coffee, much to the surprise of the landlady. The Spanish idea of a big coffee and my idea of a big coffee are very different!

The walk was very pleasant, side roads and then woodland and well signed. I intended to stop for a rest at about 20 kms, provided I found somewhere to sit, there should have been, there was a bus shelter but it was occupied by local yokels, so I carried on. I decided that if it was only 5k more I would soon arrive. I arrived on the outskirts of Sigueiro at 1pm, it took me a little longer to reach the Pension (no albergue here) but I got there in time to have a shower before lunch. Most of the Italians have come to the same place, including 1 I hadn't seen before. It was lovely to have a room to myself, I decided just to lie and chill. I was planning an early start in the morning to get to Santiago before 11 am.

Friday: Sigueiro to Santiago 16.5 kms

I was woken at 6 by someone going to the bathroom and coughing his head off, so I decided I might as well get up too. I got down to the bar just before 6.30 and discovered it was already open. I had breakfast and started walking at 7. It was foggy to start with, but that is a good sign, of sun to come. There was an elderly Italian man (by elderly I mean much older than me!), I don't know where he had been before Sigueiro but he soon caught me up and passed me and disappeared into the distance. At 10 kms from Santiago there were some distance markers.

 

It is nice to see progress being made! The profile seemed to indicate that the walk was fairly flat but there were plenty of ups and downs.

My first view of Santiago, though not very clear!

 I got to Santiago at 10.30 and got rid of my backpack at the Seminario Mayor, which was were I had opted to stay this time, then went to the Cathedral and the Pilgrim's Office. The girl was a bit iffy about my unofficial credencial and my stamp from Abegondo, she had to ask someone about that, they decided that if I was really mad enough to add part of the camino from A Coruna to the camino from Ferrol then that was OK. I then had coffee in my favourite bar!

Santiago was heaving, there were bus loads of tourists, many of them English speaking. The 'botifumeiro' was hanging. I took a standing place when suddenly someone who was sitting down decided to leave so I got a seat. The botifumeiro had been paid for by a group of National Police men/women who had walked and cycled the camino. The Bishop gave a nice vote of thanks to the police for the role they play in helping the vulnerable, I liked what he said, it seemed appropriate to my son as he starts life in the Army. I have always been lucky and seen the botifumeiro  many times but it never ceases to put a smile on my face. Also the Mass started with a welcome to all pilgrims, particularly to those who had taken a camino, I liked that too, usually it's the bus loads who are acknowledged.

I had lunch then had a rest, I had to keep reminding myself that I haven't finished walking, I have to do the rest this time.

 I was glad I was in the Seminario Mayor, it was nice and handy for everywhere, it has a lift to the 4th floor and although my room was Spartan and looked like student accommodation it had an en-suite.













Week 3

Day 1  Mueles de Pan to Fonfria 22.5 kms

I slept well, though it took a while for my feet to stop throbbing. the room was hot, this helped with drying my boots and clothes, but in the night I had to get up to turn the heating down. I got up at 7.30 and was at the bar at 8.05, the bar was still closed, I waited a little while, impatiently, I would have left but I hadn't paid so I had to hang on. Eventually the landlady arrived, I had breakfast, paid and left.

The first village was at 3kms but there was no bar so I was glad I had had my breakfast. I was then supposed to walk 2.5kms to a place where the camino split into 2 options.but I saw nothing that indicated this, then 3.5kms to the next village. I made one small mistake when the arrow seemed a bit ambiguous, I walked for 10 minutes without seeing an arrow so I turned back and followed the other path and saw an arrow almost immediately.

The walk was lovely, the countryside much wilder, lots of ups and downs, much more like Galicia or North Portugal. I saw a Wild Boar, my first, or at least the first I have seen alive. The weather was just April showers, nothing too drenching and soon cleared. There were also lots of the little daffodils and baby crocuses.

I seemed to walk and walk, then I looked at the amendments to my guide, it was 7 kms not 3.5, that seemed to make sense. I stopped in Cerezal de Aliste for a little break, though there was no bar, just a seat outside the church.

As I left the village I saw a 'mojon' pointing up the road so I followed it, after about 1km I realised I had seen no other signs, so I read my guide, I should have turned left behind the cemetery, I hadn't seen a cemetery but I went back and found the right track, this mojon is in the wrong place.

5kms to go to a bar! My legs were tired and I was running out of water. There was plenty of water around me!

Fortunately none of the water features were too difficult. The village had a bar but it only opened at weekends so I had to struggle on to Fonfria, As I left Bermillo I came to a large flock of sheep in a pen, being guarded by 11 dogs, this was just a little scary but I got passed. 
I was just hoping I would find accommodation in Fonfria, I got there just before 4pm. I struggled through the village looking for Bar Alfredo which was reported to provide accommodation sometimes. I couldn't find it but a man came running out of a bar to tell me that that was the bar with the key to the Albergue. They had an Albergue! It is still under construction really and will be super when it is finished but it has new beds and showers and hot water. Lots of electric wall heaters but no plugs on them yet! I didn't care I was just glad to have a bed. I was able to buy some essential supplies at the village shop and was happy to go to bed as soon as it got too cold, after all I had complained of being too hot the night before.

Day 2 Fonfria to Alcanices 22 kms
I slept in my base layer with leg warmers and a fleece and put my jacket over my feet. I slept well. I woke about 3 am feeling a little chilly so I re-arranged my jacket and went back to sleep. I was woken by my alarm at 7.30 so it must have been alright! My phone said that the temperature in Zamora was 2 degrees so I decided it was a hat and glove day, my first. I had a box of chocolate drink and an almond biscuit and started off. As I went to lock the door I had a sudden presentiment that I should go back and check but I ignored it! I started on the camino, it followed the road a short distance, then a concrete path, then a grassy path, the grass was soaking, like a swamp and within minutes my boots and feet were soaking and my feet freezing. My boots are splitting and it doesn't take much for my feet to get wet.
I returned to the road.and walked the 5kms to Fornillos de Aliste, I went into the village to the bar and the lady in the bar told me that the camino was good from there on so I started back on the camino. I walked passed the lavadero as my guide book said and followed the signs, keeping straight on.

I came to a crossing of tracks and could see no signs but my guide said KSO at the crossing, so I did. I walked a little way then decided to go back and check, still nothing, I couldn't see I was doing anything wrong so I continued, I walked about 1.5kms and came to a road, no signs, no arrows. I could see the main road to my right, this was a little disconcerting as it should have been to my left, so I walked down the road towards the Nacional and arrived in Fornillos again! I checked the beginning of the camino but I couldn't see what I had done wrong, other than that it was so wet that I had to concentrate on looking at the ground for the least wet places. I didn't  feel like repeating what I had just done so I returned to walking on the road.

Is this the missing link?

Technically I had done 5k and it had taken me 2 and a half hours. At least the road had the advantage that I could see the kilometers disappear.

I stopped at Ceadea for another break and continued.

The path near the road.

As I got near to Alcanices I saw signs for an Albergue. When I arrived I found the place locked with an Alsatian guarding the door and signs of someone being their, it looked like a 'hippy' was in residence. It was supposed to be open at 14.00. 

I decided not to stay at the Albergue, I was even going to get a bus on to the next possible stop. I went into the town and asked about buses, I could get one to the frontier but not till evening so I went to get something to eat. After lunch I wanted to use the computer and looked for my specs, I had lost them:(  The people in the bar were very helpful and phoned Fonfria to ask for someone to check the Albergue for me. They were also very concerned about my report on their Albergue and that I wouldn't stay there. Unfortunately the X-mayor had just died and it was his funeral so it was not a good day for making a report to the Town Hall, but the bar owner was telling everyone, including the Guardia Civil, they said they would remove the dog but I was more concerned about the dogs owner. They were also going to go back to Fonfria to look for my specs for me! It meant, though, that I had to stay the night in Alcanices and had to go to a Hotel and had to keep walking!



 Day 3 Alcancices to Quintanilha 24.5 kms
No-one came with my specs. I thought of getting a taxi back but wasn't sure what time the bar would open. I got up at 7.30, had breakfast in the bar and walked back into town to a cash machine as I had remembered that I had forgotten if I had told my bank I would be in Portugal.
I started about 8.30, it didn't take me long to go wrong. I'm sure the arrow pointed right, I then had to negotiate a major water feature, I was inclined to return to the road but I persisted and got around without getting too wet. It was then an uphill walk through a pine forest, quite pleasant, it was only when I got to a crossing of tracks at the top that I realized there were no signs. I was not going to cross the water again and I could hear the main road so I turned left and walked parallel to the road. Eventually I came to a minor road and turned down meaning to walk to the road but I came to arrows again so I continued on the camino. I could not relate anything I saw anywhere to the instructions in the guide till I came to a big field, it was full of crocuses and baby daffodils and would have been lovely if it hadn't also been full of water. I had to manoeuvre from one clump of longer grass to another.
When I got to Sejas de Aliste I had been walking for 2 and a half hours and done 10 kms, so different from yesterday. The village had a river running through the middle though an old man told me it was many years since it last had water. 

From there to Trabazos.

The Albergue at Trabazos.

Then on to San Martin de Pedroso. I went to the bar/tienda and asked if they did food! I was ushered into the family room and served with what they were going to have for lunch, I felt quite guilty. I hope there was enough for them. I sat with 'grand-ma' and she chatted non-stop, I expect I had made her day. Whilst I was there there was a programme on TV about the local wolves. That might explain the 11 dogs guarding the sheep.

From there it was a pleasant walk to the frontier.

The frontier

In Quintanilha I went in search of the Albergue, not easy but eventually a lady from the bar took me up and got the key. The 'hospitalero' works and my initial question got the response, I think, that I would have to wait until evening! Fortunately his mother had the key.

The Albergue.

The Albergue is big, with a well equipped kitchen. There was also a computer but with only one plug behind it. The lighting system was strange as it was central, but this was not a problem as I was alone. The water was cold so I opted not to shower,  but there was a heater. The woman said her son would come in the evening but I never saw him.

Day 4 Quntanilha to Braganza.+/- 13kms

What a day! 

I got up early so I could get to Braganza early. I had some hot chocolate and a muesli bar and started off just after 7am. I had no idea whether the Albergue was fixed price, free or donativo so I left some money on the table.

The first 1-2 kms were straight uphill:( Then I started on the flat or downhill bits, water, water everywhere! I think this was the worst day for groundwater, the path was well signed and I got to Refega with only slightly wet feet, then it got worse and worse. I came to an enormous water feature, I had no choice but to struggle round or through it as there was nowhere else to go but back!

The water was pretty deep and walking along the edge meant a fight with the brambles. At this point, after a few S*** F*** I decided that this was the end. I would find the first possible alternative, I even tried working out how quickly I could get home. I was heading towards Palacios and I could see a village somewhere ahead. I carried on then the path disappeared  entirely into a river, fortunately there was another track so I took that, now I had no idea where I was going as there were no more signs, I just reckoned that a reasonable track must lead somewhere.  Eventually I arrived at the village on the hill, it was not Palacios but a San Juliao. I asked for directions up to the road and was told there was a bar, I didn't see the bar but I saw a map and headed down the road. I walked about 1.5kms to the next village only to discover that I was walking in the wrong direction, so I had to walk back, this time I saw the bar, so I went in and in my best Spanguese asked: " Bom dia, puede chamar un taxi, faz favor?" the answer was an immediate  "Sim". I then chatted to the lady and another guy, apparently the path normally goes along the edge of a stream, now it is in the middle of a river.  I revived with a coffee and went the next 10kms in a taxi.

I went to the Tourist Office and got information on the Casa de la Misericordia, in fact she miss-directed me but I got there anyway, I don't think they had seen a pilgrim in some time. I expected to be shown a room but I was taken to the kitchen and given a meal then I was taken to the building I had been directed to first and shown a room. The Casa de la Misericordia is a major complex of care for the elderly, this building I was to sleep in was a residence for the Carers. I felt very guilty that I was getting this super treatment when I had come in by taxi but I did walk most of it.

I sorted myself and my stuff then went downstairs to go out, I met some of the Carers going out, here I hit a problem, I could only get into the building if there was someone at home but they were all going to be out,  I think they had some kind of training session, We agreed a time for me to be back and I went to visit Braganza.

The residence

When I went back there was still no-one there and I had a long wait, this was a distinct downside but as a social exercise this was a very interesting place to stay.

I was told that the front door would be opened at 8 in the morning. I was invited to go back with them for a meal in the main complex but I declined and went to bed early.

Day 5 Braganza to Chaves

This is a variation! I have no desire to sleep in the church porch in Segirei. I had heard, anecdotally of a route through Chaves so I went to investigate,. I was downstairs at 7.50 and found that someone had unlocked the front door so I went off to the bus station for breakfast, then to Lidl for some supplies. The bus (yeah .. the bus) went via Vinhais, the route was hilly/mountainous and very beautiful.. I suspect that the camino would be pretty steep too. I arrived in Chaves just in time to rush to the Tourist Office for some info. They didn't have much, just a little leaflet; The Interior Camino Poruguese, They claimed it to be very well signed and I was to discover that they are right.

An example of signing in Chaves. Why don't all cities sign like this? this was the sign used all the way.

The Roman bridge leading in to the city and a miliario.

Day 6 Chaves to Verin  26 kms

I got up early and left Chaves at 7.15, Spanish time, I wasn't sure about the Albergue in Verin and my phone wasn't working.

The camino was well signed, on pavements through small villages until the border, 12kms from Chaves.

The border sign was merely a wooden pointer saying 'Espanha', I didn't realise I had entered Spain until I noticed that the For sale signs said Se Vende instead of Vendese. I had had plenty of opportunity to notice the For sale signs in Portugal as every second house seems to be for sale. Then I noticed a rubbish bin saying Xunta de Galicia, that was a dead giveaway. I had promised myself a break when I was back in Spain so I sat down for a drink and a piece of chocolate. A Guardia Civil patrol car passed me and when I started walking again I found that they had stopped just around the corner, then I realised it was a bar, so I had a cup of coffee. I was told it was 10 km to Verin, it certainly was on the road and I decided to stick with that. The path looked well signed whenever I caught a glimpse of it, but now it was the typical sign used in Galicia.

According to something I had read access to the Albergue in Verin is via the Tourist Office and I wasn't sure this would be open on  a Sunday. It took me ages to find the Albergue and it was shut, as was the Tourist Office. I couldn't see any useful information.

 Albergue and sign outside.

I was pretty peeved, Verin was dead, and my phone wasn't working. In the end, having tossed up the options, I went to find the bus station, I sat in the bus station and ate the food I had with me and waited for the bus to Ourense.  In Ourense I went to the Albergue, The hospitalero said that the Albergue in Verin is run by the Jacobeo so it should be open, unless they have completed their contract and shut completely.

Now I am home, I only intended to walk to Ourense, from Verin I was going to cross to Laza.  I had various reasons for needing to be home, not least that I wanted to go back to Fonfria to look for my specs. I didn't find them.

On the way to Fonfria I saw quite a few pilgrims, most seem to have been reduced to walking up the road as the weather has been terrible this week, though it is supposed to change this weekend so maybe some of the surface water will evaporate. I also bumped into Rique in Puebla de Sanabria, I didn't manage to get up the hill to see the old town but I did have a long and very amusing lunch.

Now I have to get new specs and some new boots before I walk again.