Week 4 caminos Catalan and Aragones

Week 4 Day 22 Sarsamacuello to Ena 25.8kms

The morning was cool but sunny, though there were threatening rain clouds over the mountains to my right. The wind was easier but still quite blowy.

The view back over Sarsamacuello

The sign for a Via Pecuario or drovers way

The profile I had seen said mostly downhill but this was far from true. There is a castle of Marcuello, very much in ruins, about 4.5 kms from Sarsamacuello but also about 300 metres higher, so my day started with a steep climb into the mountains. The info displayed near the castle said that we were above 1000 metres. This was really re-assuring as the climb had not caused me any major problems and San Juan de la Peña is only 1125 metres.

 

 

The route today was beautiful there was a down which was steep and nasty but fortunately the paths are mostly dry. 

 

  

This just looks like a path but you should have seen the drop on either side!

The view coming out on the other side.

I think this is a bee orchid!

The station at Sta Maria de la Peña

It was in the mountains until Sta Maria de la Peña, after that it was mostly flat for a while and a route along the roadway. Then I had one of those 'You can't be serious' moments. I looked at the path, what path? and said; 'No way' but I had to.

 

 

After a couple of hundred metres it suddenly broke into beautiful countryside, a really narrow path, through countryside, with a stream on one side and lots of pretty flowers, and I heard my first cuckoo. There were patches of mud, the area was enclosed to protect cattle but there was none to be seen, but lots of evidence of horses. It seems the animals here are all phantom. The walk took a long time and there was nowhere to sit and rest.

 

 I had read that it could be necessary to paddle as the rate of flow of the streams is regulated by a reservoir higher up. I did. 3 times I had to take off my boots and paddle through freezing cold, fast flowing water.

 



Trying to put socks on wet feet whilst standing up is an interesting experience! There were also moments when my brain said; 'You can't get across that' and my feet agreed but I had to persuade them there was no alternative and go for it. 

 

 

 

All in all today's walk was brilliant. The scenery is wonderful, one of the best days so far.

Ena is a lovely little town with fancy chimneys, designed so that the snow doesn't enter.

The albergue is really well equipped and new, much better than I expected.

 

Day 23 Ena to Sta Cilia de Jaca 22.2

The day started sunny and soon got warm. The first stage was Ena to Botayo, I thought this would be relatively easy. At about 3 kms I had to paddle again, this was fairly deep and at 8.30 in the morning, very cold.

 

 I looked at my info, it said that at 4 kms 'after various crossings of the stream' I would arrive at something. I wish they had quantified various! I reckoned that if I had to paddle various times over about 1 km I would keep my crocs on it was to much like hard work changing my footwear all the time. I had to paddle and wade 5 times, my feet were very, very cold by the time I had finished. When I was sure that I was moving away from the sound of running water I found a rock, sat down, put my boots on and had a rest. the rest of the walk to Botayo was not too bad, then there was the serious climb to the monastery. It was only 2.5 kms but very steep.

 

There were lots of pretty spring flowers including the anemones I like so much.

 

The top was the New Monastery, then there was a steep down to the Old Monastery. A lot of it was earth path which would have been very unpleasant if it had been wet.

These were caterpillars making the journey across the road!

I felt euphoric when I got to the old monastery, I'd done it. I completely forgot that there has to be a coming down as well! The path down was also very steep but there were some breath-taking views of the Pyrenees, good reasons for stopping to take in the view!!

 

  It was getting well into the afternoon and it was very hot.

At Sta Cruz de la Seros I was going to have a cup of coffee but it was so late I stopped and ate half the 'bocadillo' (large sandwich) I was carrying. I was also in trouble I had forgotten to get money in Huesca and there had been no opportunity since so I was almost broke. I decided to continue to Sta Cilia and then have a beer. It was a very long walk even though it was only 22kms.

The sign were the caminos joined.

 I was exhausted when I arrived and I found the bar closed.. There is no kitchen at Sta Cilia so I had the rest of my bocadillo, some chocolate and tap water! I was on my own!

I have finished the Catalan Camino and really enjoyed it. I feel I have achieved something big for me. I would heartily recommend it to anyone. From Montserrat it is well signed and there is a good infrastructure, up to Montserrat it is less well signed and no albergues as such but the first part was super.

It needs to be done when the paths are dry, some of the ups and downs would be lethal when wet. And remember to bring rubber shoes!!

Day 24 Sta Cilia to Jaca 15 kms

I have walked the camino backwards today. I met 4 pilgrims going the other way. I found it hard work walking today, maybe after the exertions of the last couple of days, but possibly because I needed some food and a coffee. The weather is also very hot, T-shirts by 10a.m. and warm until sun down. The hospitalera told me the bar opened early, but it wasn't open at 7.30.

I've now got some money, I've had access to computers.

 

 I've visited the Cathedral, which was closed for renovation last time I was here, and there are 5 pilgrims here. There is an Italian couple who have invited us to a communal meal tonight, so things are looking up :)