Slovenia, Croatia and Italy

  March 2022

For a long time I have wanted to visit Slovenia and the Dalmatian coast, now that the Covid restrictions are being lifted I have booked a trip.  The trip looked like it could be threatened when Russia invaded the Ukraine, what a mess the world is in! 

March 25th I headed off for Madrid and the flight to Venice.  I had a very early start, the local bus to Ourense now runs through the edge of the village at approximately 06.40!  It was a bitterly cold morning and I was ready and waiting early, although the bus passes the village I was not 100% sure that it would stop but I had my torch ready and flashed him down. Breakfast in the station and a train ride to Madrid, all went smoothly until the airport.  As I had booked self-catering accommodation I was carrying odd bits of food and drink (a packet of soup, tea bags, coffee and cocoa powder) I had a miniature bottle of brandy which I had completely forgotten about and it was in my hand luggage with the dry goods. At security I had to empty my case as the girl checking the X-ray machine said that there was a bottle of wine, I knew that there wasn't and both the security person and I were imagining a largish bottle because she had said 'wine', nothing was found and I was quite annoyed, it was only later that I remembered my miniature brandy!!!  On the flight I dropped my kindle and it broke, this was a disaster, I was depending on it for evening entertainment. 

Venice.  We had had to fill in special forms because of Covid, on the plane these were handed out to people who had not already completed one on-line but there were absolutely no checks when we landed and we were through quickly. I found the place to buy a bus ticket and I headed for Piazza di Roma and my hotel. 

My hotel is on the left, an old convent in an impressive building. The whole place was magical.

It was already evening when I arrived but I dropped off my case and went for a little wander and to find a cup of 'tea'.  This was a hotel and I did not think that there were any self catering facilities but the next morning I was shown a room where I could boil a kettle or use a microwave, this was a great bonus. I only had one day in Venice and I have been here before but I had a lovely day wandering around. I had booked a ticket for a 'vaporetto' on the Grand Canal. I did this via the Italian railway and it was on a headed paper, when I tried to access a vaporetto I was sent to the railway station. There I was sent back, what I had was not a ticket but a voucher and I had to change it for a ticket with a QR. Eventually I folded down the Railway heading and someone condescended to give me a ticket.

I got off at St. Mark's Square where I stopped for, what must be, the most expensive coffee in the world, but it was a lovely sunny day and it was wonderful to sit there.

I found a nice place for lunch and then started a walk back to the hotel.  In fact I walked round in circles for a couple of hours but it was all an adventure and eventually I found my way back.

The next day I took a train to Trieste.  I checked into my studio and then went to do a little food shop. I had considered visiting the Miramare Castle but I find travelling tiring these days so I just chilled.  I had discovered a few games to play on my mobile now that I was without my kindle.

Trieste is an interesting town, it was greatly populated by police today as the President was visiting. I found the Tourist Office and got a decent map and then did a wander.

                                                                                                                            

                                           

              

After lunch I took the bus in the direction of the Castle of Miramare, I was going to go all the way but I was confused by the stops and there was a lovely coastal walk so I got off early and did a pleasant walk by the sea, I didn't arrive at the castle but I enjoyed the walk.

Tuesday, a train journey to Ljubljana, Slovenia. I had thought that this was a through train but we had to change at Villa Opicina, near the border.  I arrived in Ljubljana in time for lunch, I had decided to go to a Turkish restaurant for lunch as it was convenient to find, also I had intended to leave my case at the station but I couldn't understand the instructions for the left luggage lockers! So I took my case with me, the restaurant was essentially a kebab place and was full of young people  waiting for a 'take away', most of whom seemed to be speaking English. I ordered the one dish that came on a plate, chicken pieces with salad and chips. I had to wait a while but that was not a problem as I couldn't check into to my apartment until later. At least I had a seat.

I discovered that fast food places seemed to be the only place to eat in Ljubljana, it was a choice of burgers, pizzas or kebabs, not my taste at all.

In the afternoon I checked into my apartment then went to a supermarket to do a little shop and to the bus station to get a ticket to go to Lake Bled the next day.

Wednesday to Lake Bled, I arrived at the bus station, which was outside the train station, far too early so I wandered around for a while. I discovered that there was a train to Zagreb in the morning and decided to give this some thought. I had bought a ticket but there was no reservation so I could change my plans.

Lake Bled is beautiful, I had seen photos with the sun shining and really wanted to visit, unfortunately the sun was not shining but it was still a beautiful place and at least it wasn't raining. I got off the bus earlier than I should have done but this meant that I discovered a nice coffee place, so I had a coffee then continued.

I walked up to the castle, a steep climb, had a look around and then returned to a restaurant that I had seen, which looked good.  Here I was mistaken for an escapee from the local hospital, they tried to shepherd me out and kept asking questions in Slovenian about a coupon, it was quite surreal, not what one expects when one walks into a restaurant!  After a few bemused minutes I said, in English, that I didn't have a coupon but that I would like to sit down and have a menu.  They became very apologetic The restaurant was described outside as a Steak House so I opted for a steak, when the waitress disappeared without asking me how I wanted the steak I realised that maybe I had made a mistake. The meal was tasty but the steak like leather! 

Unfortunately something I ate didn't agree with me and I spent half the night in the bathroom clutching a bucket.  The next morning I skipped breakfast and went for a walk into town, I had a ticket for a concert in the evening and I wanted to be sure where I was to go. I found the venue though it was carefully disguised as an apartment block, my ticket, which was, of course, written in Slovenian seemed to give an entrance door, I couldn't find this and I spent a while wandering around in the pouring rain to no avail. 

  

I gave up on that and went to look at the old town.  I saw a nice cafe, the only one I saw in Ljubljana, but rather stupidly I opted to wait a while for coffee and after that there was nowhere. The old town is rather pretty and would have looked nice with the sun shining. There are lots of eateries along the river but all seemed to be shut, outside the market there were kiosks selling traditional food but it seemed to consist of soups and spicy sausages so I passed on that,  I was soaking wet so I took some photos and went home via a supermarket.

In the evening I went to the concert which I really enjoyed. I discovered that I hadn't needed to walk round and round the building looking for a door, all the doors led into the same space, a kind of exhibition area, my door number was for the door into the auditorium, I had got very wet for nothing.

The next morning I was up early again, the result of going to bed early because I am bored!  I had initially planned to spend the morning in Ljubljana, have lunch there and get an afternoon train to Zagreb as I couldn't get into the apartment until mid afternoon, but after my experiences of Slovenian food I opted for an earlier train and decided to spend the extra time in Zagreb.  At the border we had a passport control and stamps from both Slovenia and Croatia, I'm not sure if everyone was stamped or it was because I have a British passport! 

Zagreb impresses immediately, straight out of the station and onto an enormous square.

The weather was drear but it was not raining so I just went for a walk, I started by looking for a cafe, I found one quickly and went in, it was full of men smoking, I haven't been into a smokey cafe for years. The coffee was good but I was glad to get out. Then I returned to the big square, the city seemed vaguely Parisian, wide boulevards and beautiful buildings. Later I discovered that theses are a result of this part of Croatia once being in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Away from the square I discovered lots of 'back streets' with restaurants. I found one with a menu that looked reasonably priced, it was a bit difficult to judge as Croatia does not use Euros, but I went in for an early lunch, I had a downstairs restaurant all to my self and had a delicious meal, I think it was the best meal I had during this journey. After lunch I killed a bit more time then walked slowly to my apartment, I had a number to get in so I decided to try getting in early. The outside of the building was not inspiring, scruffy and lots of graffiti but once in side it was very nice.  I got rid of my case, had a cup of tea and went to find a supermarket and the bus station. 

The owner of the apartment had thoughtfully provided plenty of information to read so I spent the evening planning my next days visits. 

Saturday, awful weather, a mixture of sleet, rain and all out snow and it was freezing cold.  However I did the tour of Zagreb that I had intended.

After lunch I went back to the apartment to dry out!

Sunday, another miserable day as I headed to the bus station for my trip to Zadar.  The first part of the 

journey was mountainous and there was snow lying.

Then after a long tunnel we came into beautiful sunshine and glimpses of blue sea.

The place I was staying in Zadar was a bit weird, I chose it because it was close to the bus station, but she let me in early so I had time to visit the old town.

The next day was totally a travel day, up early for a bus to Split, The journey was along the coast road and there were lovely views of the sea.  

We arrived in Split at lunch time and I found a restaurant. Then to the catamaran for the ride to Korcula Island.

We stopped at another island on the way, everything was beautiful.

 
It was getting dark by the time we arrived in Korcula but I managed to find my accommodation without ant problem, it was only a few minutes walk from where the ship docked and no hill or steps.  It was a studio in someone's house but the landlady was lovely and the room had everything I needed, plus there was a roof terrace.

Monday, up early for a visit to Korcula old town, this was the birth place of Marco Polo, though the museum was shut. It is an old walled city built on a hill, lots of ups and downs and steps.  nearly everything was closed though there was plenty of activity, it was evident that work was being done to open up for the season. 

I found somewhere for coffee near the port and after a wonder around I returned to my accommodation to try out the roof terrace.

It was very relaxing sitting in the sunshine with my glass of wine.  Then out for lunch, I had found a restaurant overlooking the port, the meal was not brilliant and it was expensive but I suppose I was paying for the view, and the wine!!

The next day to Dubrovnik.  I took the catamaran and arrived late morning, I had to meet someone to access the apartment, we were to meet at one of the gates near a restaurant but there were no names on the gates or the restaurant so I went to the wrong gate, eventually we met up. my room was not too far off the gate, which was good as all the streets are nothing but steep steps!
 

I had a bit of a wander and bought some food, then rested. The next day the weather changed and it poured with rain all day. I walked the walls and got very wet. My shoes were soaked and I discovered that they were starting to split. I decided that I would have to find somewhere to buy shoes here in Dubrovnik as I have big feet and Italian shops do not necessarily sell my size  so I did a search for a shop. 

Thursday, I was up early again and headed off to find a shoe shop. The shops open at 08.30 which was good. I bought new shoes and walked back to the old town. The weather was much better.

Friday and a bus journey back  to Split.  Most of Croatia is mountainous but we went through an area that was flat and flooded, it was very agricultural, the main produce seemed to be citrus fruits. 

We also drove through a little bit of Bosnia Herzegovina, we all had to get out of the bus to go through Croatian passport control both exiting and entering the country but the Bosnians didn't seem to mind who came or went!! 

The town of Split is based around Diocletian's palace, there are lots of Roman remains, and very narrow medieval streets.

Good bye to Dalmatia, my last views before getting the bus to the airport.

I didn't eat out in Split, I was conserving the last of my Kunas but my watch stopped. I hate being without a watch and during my meandering on Sunday I found a watch repair shop so I took out a bit more money. Monday morning I had my watch repaired, a very nice lady watch maker.

I had a long wait in the airport so I had a meal, I had just enough money for a cheap meal and, I thought, a cup of coffee, I hadn't reckoned on airport prices. I ordered the coffee without asking the price and I was a few Kunas short but he let me have it anyway.