The Monastery at Samos
The route was really pretty and it was lovely walking. I joined onto the other Triacastella route in a very different place to the one I expected, no wonder I couldn't find it when I tried to do it backwards. On my drive there was a lot of fog but it was very warm for my walk. I was sure that there was an albergue/bar just outside Sarria and I promised myself a drink and a sandwich when I got there, but when I arrived there was certainly an albergue but no sign of a bar, so I carried on walking. I decided to continue to Barbadelo, though I was very concerned that the albergue there only has 18 beds and I was running quite late. I thought that I had driven through Barbadelo in the morning and that it is a town so I was sure that there were plenty of shops etc. So on I trotted (stumbled more like). When I got to Barbadelo the Municipal Albergue was full so I went to a private one, at 10€ it was worth it, if only not to have to walk any further. There is no town and the closest shop is 2k away. The `village`is beautiful, with the sun shining it was lovely to sit outside. A bit boring if you get there too early but alright if you arrive later. I had food and the albergue had wine so all was well! The only problem with the Albergue is the washing facilities, one shower room with wash basin and toilet, for 12 people. I reckoned the morning would be interesting.
Thursday, 21st October. Barbadelo to Gonzar 26kms
Last night was a good choice for the first night on the camino, with nothing to do locally and with 2 albergue there was nothing to do but chat. A lot of French at the moment, some Spanish and a variety of Koreans, Australians, Americans and Canadians. I went to bed early because there was nothing else to do. I must get near a shop and buy a Sudoku book!
I was awake early so I got up to use the bathroom facilities, before the rush. By 7.45 I was ready and had nothing else to do so I started walking, very slowly initially, mostly enjoying looking at the stars, then it started to get a bit lighter and I started walking more seriously, soon I was overtaken by a French group with torches so I followed them until daylight. My torch is not powerful enough for walking in the dark, it's sufficient for looking at my watch in the night without disturbing my neighbours. By 8.15 there was enough light so see the signs by. I passed the 100 kms mark then stopped in Ferreiros for a second coffee.
I really didn't see many people whilst I was walking but I know there are still plenty around so I was worried all day about not getting to an Albergue in time. The weather seemed to be warmer and there was not as much frost as previous days but it was very misty, I thought that, once again, I would not see Portomarin but the fog lifted just in time.
The remains of the old bridge.
I discovered, driving through yesterday, that there is absolutely no need to climb the steps into Portamarin, so I just turned left at the bridge and crossed over again.
My feet are very sore, the balls of my feet are the most painful. I was really glad to get to Gonzar. Once again I have misjudged slightly. It is another small village, a bit bigger than last night but no shops, so as I have got here at 2.30 I will be very bored by this evening!
Friday 22nd October, Gonzar to Casanova 23kms
The Albergue got very full last night, mostly French and Spanish. The Spanish were noisy as usual, and late in, and talking on their mobiles, then this morning someones alarm went off at 7, not just a quick buzz but it went from buzz to loud music to louder singing, by which time everyone was awake. There is really no need as it is dark till about 8.15, if not later, so, once again, I started in the dark. I managed to attach myself to a nice French couple with a light and we walked together until I could see. I saw a shooting star this morning, first time ever. The French couple have walked from Le Puy. She said she has lost 3 toe nails, this was not something I wanted to hear as I feared I might be losing one, I now fear I may be losing 2. Not sure why as my boots are plenty big enough, or they seemed to be when I walked last time. I suspect I may not get to Finisterre on foot. I would go home now if I had not left the builder sorting out drainage, I will ring him tomorrow and see how it is doing.
On the whole I am enjoying the walk more, the scenery is very pleasant, I suspect that when I walked this way last time I was too tired to take it in.
I am in another Albergue in the middle of nowhere, fortunately I had the forethought to buy some grapes and some mushrooms in Palas de Rei but I am reduced to drinking water!!
Saturday 23rd October, Casanova to Ribadiso 20kms
There were only10 of us in the Albergue last night and most of us ate in. As I was the only one with a pan I was very popular! An American girl turned up late and hungry, I said that she could eat some of my mushrooms if she wanted, she ate all that were left (a lot) so I will have to rethink today's meal. I slept really well last night. We were all treated to an infusion called 'Relax', whether it was that or because of my earplugs I don't know but I was really surprised to wake up this morning and find people already up! When I looked at the time it was 7.40. We had the hospitaleros trying to chase us out at 8.05. Foggy again this morning. I tried to take a photo of the full moon but the light just reflected off the fog!
I have stopped in Melide for coffee in a bar I stopped in last time, my first Internet access, so most of my writings are done from notes.
Another day of lovely woods, I wonder if they are more noticeable now because it is Autumn!
My feet are killing me, I don't remember them being so painful last time, though I do remember that I couldn't have walked another step when I stopped each day.
In Ribadiso, the weather is changing but the rain has held off today. I hope my socks get to dry.
The toilets, showers etc are all across a courtyard so it must be uncomfortable when it rains at night, but it's lovely in good weather.
Sunday, 24th October Ribadiso to Pedrouzo 22kms
Well, I reckoned it rained during the night but I didn't get up so that was alright. There were lots of comings and goings even someone who appeared too arrive at midnight and was shown to a bunk. I was very annoyed, I had the bed by the door and above me was a Slovakian girl called Susana. When she arrived she took one of the few blankets, I reckoned this was a good idea so I took one too. Later an English woman came over and said to Susana: 'There aren't enough blankets so if you don't need that one, 0h, do you need that one, because I need one.' Susana looked a bit stumped but said graciously that if this woman had a very thin sleeping bag then she could have the blanket and she would put more layers on. I checked later and this woman did have a sleeping bag and she was well away from the door, I'm sure Susana's need was greater than hers. I reckon one should carry what one needs for the camino or take the consequences. I have met very few English on the Camino but, unfortunately the ones I have met have not impressed me. Fortunately there was no frost else we could have been very cold by the door. There was a lot of snoring so eventually I put in my ear plugs and slept very well but some bright spark put on the light at 7, totally unnecessary as we were all out in the dark at 7.30 and as it was cloudy it was well after8.30 before we could see. I had put a new battery in my torch so I could actually see with it but walking is much slower when there is not enough light.
I don't remember walking through all these forests in March. I only remember the road bits I didn't like, I think probably by the time I got to the last week I wasn't paying much attention.
I found a nice Bar in Calzado that I went to last time. It's funny I'm doing different stages and sleeping in different places but I'm using the same between stops. I also turned the wrong way in the same place, last time people in a bar called me back, this time a farmer came out of his milking shed to point me in the right direction. It started drizzling after Calzado then just got wetter and wetter, my feet were on a go slow, everyone was passing me and there seemed to be loads of people, mostly without backpacks! I got to Pedrouzo just after 2pm, the kind hospitalera has given me a bed!! (ie not a bunk) This Albergue sleeps a lot of people, which is just as well as there seem to be lots of people, I suspect some might have wanted to walk further if it hadn't been for the rain. There are horses staying here too! Many of the people from the last 2 nights are here as well, I'm starting to feel like an old hand. It's funny, I've been miserable all day, thinking that it doesn't pay to just do a short camino as you don't build up the network, but shortly after I arrived I met friendly faces, and 4 of us are going to share a washing machine, which is really useful as today's clothes are soaking. I'd bought a bottle of wine and finally got a Sudoku book so I wouldn't get bored, I intended to settle in for the evening. That was the plan but a German lady came to chat to me, you never can tell on the Camino!
Monday, 25th October Pedrouzo to Santiago 19k
People were up early again! I didn't start too early, about 8 and there was a full moon, it was lovely. I walked into a wood, following an arrow and just kept walking, admiring the moon through the trees, until I came out the other side and discovered no arrows, so I had to walk back again to the other edge of the wood to find the right path.
I started walking quite well and really enjoyed the scenery, it's funny I really don't remember so much woodland in April, maybe because there were fewer leaves. The bark is coming off the eucalyptus trees and hanging in the branches giving a quite 'other worldly' feel to some of the woods. There are lots of pretty villages, most of these had Camellias in flower in April, now they have vines with the leaves changing colour.
My walking got slower and slower, I managed to walk past the Albergue as well so I had to walk back again, but eventually I made it into Santiago, having left my backpack at the Albergue. I had to stand in a queue for my Compostela, which was hard on the feet, but there were quite a few people I knew, even after only 6 days and I got one hug! I don't really care about the Compostela but I fancy trying my luck at eating at the Parador and for that I need a Compostela. I eventually got my Compostela, went to the Cathedral and then to Cafe Casino for a glass of wine and then struggled back to the Albergue, I caught a bus from outside the walls, so that helped. i just had time to shower, go to the Bus Station to get bus times for tomorrow and get a bus back to the centre to go to Mass. When I got there the Cathedral was full, there were no seats and I could not stand so I left and sat on a wall outside the Parador.
The meal was great fun. Lovely company. There were only 6 of us though there had been 10, but 2 were turned away because one had a rucksack and 2 did not have their Compostelas only their credencials. Those of us who managed to get in really enjoyed it, then 3 of us went to the Cafe Casino for coffee, Lucy, a 19 year old Australian who has had some amazing travelling experiences, and Doris, a German lady of my age. Then I hobbled back to the albergue.
I have enormous blisters on the soles of both feet, 2 very red, swollen blistered toes, and a very swollen left foot, any further walking is out of the question. So I've decided, this whole walking experience has been so painful I am going to throw away my boots and walk no more.
Tuesday, 26th October to Finisterra by bus!
I went on the bus with the German ladies that I met in Pedrouzo, but they are going to stay the night. These are 2 ladies, in their 70's, who have walked from Ponferrada, with their backpacks! Their respective husbands told them they would never do it!
I made a supreme effort and walked to the lighthouse, it was well worth it, the weather is super and the views beautiful, I also got a stamp for my credencial, it seemed to be a fitting end to my Camino. On the way down a very nice gentleman offerred me a lift and I gratefully accepted, I've done my walking now!
Wednesday, 27th October
I went back to Samos to collect my car. Then in the evening I went back to the Parador for dinner. I got there about 6.15 and I was already the 10th person. Another really interesting group of people, some of them had done the Portuguese Camino, it sounds really nice. There was an American couple, an Austrian man, a Korean mother and daughter, Susana, a French man, a Dutch couple, though she was born in Rhodesia and me. After dinner 6 of us went to the Cafe Casino, the rest fancied gewey cakes as well as coffee. These free meals at the Parador are a wonderful tradition.
Thursday, 28th October
I drove home to see what the damage was at my house, the road is up! I do now have a bathroom that works but there is still a lot to do and they knocked a hole in the water pipes, which for some reason run under the floor, God help me if they ever freeze! So I have no water! I can now walk fairly well so I have decided to walk to Finsterre! I have collected some clean clothes and left behind a few things I won't need to make my bag lighter and back to the Albergue in Santiago. Thank God for the Albergue as well! I got back to Santiago to find a man with the smelliest feet ever has the bed next to mine. I decided not to stay in the room but to sit in the seating area and open my bottle of wine, whilst I was there a Spanish lady went past and said that we should swap wines later, so eventually I joined her and we chatted, she has done the via de la Plata by bike, because she knew she would not manage the longer stages. Whilst we were chatting there was a bit of a commotion and lots of giggling, others had experienced the smelly feet, the lady I was talking to (I don't think we shared names!) went in and suggested to him that he should put his shoes outside, then someone went round with an airspray!!
Friday, 28th October Santiago to Negreira 21.6 kms
Well, did I say I would never walk again, here I am! It poured with rain all day, some of the forest paths were streams but the walking was good. Beautiful forests when I could lift my head to see them. My feet seemd to survive the journey.
This is a small albergue with beds, not bunks, 8 to a room. A mixture of nationalities, English seems to be the predominate language for the women and Spanish for the men. There is no
heating here, this is not a problem from the comfort point of view but drying clothes may be problematic. It wasn't raining when I left the Albergue this morning and for some reason I did not put my wash things and towel inside the plastic bag/liner, this was rather stupid as I now have a very wet towel. After my shower I had to stand in front of the electric hand dryer! Just lucky no one was around!
There's a young Spaniard who has done the Mozarabe from Granada to Seville, then the Via de la plata to Santiago. Santiago to Muxia and Finisterra and is now on the way back to Santiago, there is also a 74 year old German who I saw in Finisterre on Tuesday so he must be walking back as well.
There are also 2 American women who seem to be walking together but cook separate meals, how odd is that?
I haven't decided quite how I will manage tomorrow, I know I can not walk 33 kms so I think I will get a taxi for 10 and walk the rest.
Saturday 30th October
Well my plans changed overnight as I heard the pouring rain even through my earplugs! My waterproof trousers were amongst the items that I left at home so I am not going any further. There are buses from Negreira to Santiago, so I was on the 8.45 bus, some people were still in bed when I left, there was a general air of despondency but it was certainly not worth leaving early to walk.
I got back to Santiago before 10, had breakfast, went to Alcampo to stock up on wine and drove home. My house is now back to normal, all plumbing and drainage seems to be working.
I am happy with the way it has worked out, I fancied walking out of Santiago and I wanted to go to Finisterre, I have acheived both, though not quite as I planned. My blisters are now healed, just my toes are red, swollen and throbbing so I've bandaged them up to avoid further knocks and see how they go over the weekend.
Preparations in Santiago for the Pope's visit next week!
Your mileage is impressive. See, I told you you'd have no problem doing it with me. Or maybe I'd have problem keeping your pace! I went for a 10-mile walk yesterday and my L foot really hurt. Still trying to convince my ankles that they're no longer encased in stiff boots... Can't believe this but I'm actually envious of you! I'm thinking of the green hills and the eucalytus forests. Buen Camino.
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