Lijiang, Yunnan Province

Monday, May 2nd

Arrived in Lijiang. The railway station in Kunming was fairly quiet and there were empty sleepers on the train, I thought travelling on the Bank Holiday would be quieter. The hard sleeper was O.K. but I wouldn't like to do a long journey that way. It was fine for straight to sleep, wake up, get off. I wouldn't like to be on the top bunk either, they are three high and the top one seems very high. I was fortunate enough to always get the bottom bunk.

Lijiang is lovely. Very touristy, which is what happens to lovely old towns, but not pushy.
Lady carrying goods on her back.
Village street

The local washing area

I think these girls had just been persuaded to come out and have their photo taken!

Water wheels at the top of the town, not sure if they served a purpose.

Weaving in the main square, there was a display because of the Bank Holiday

The public toilets in Lijiang were a work of art.

I had an expensive first morning in Lijiang, I wondered around the shops and it was chilly. I bought 4 pashminas, a pair of trousers and some ear-rings. Then I went to a rstaurant for lunch, I hadn't done that for a while, I really felt as if I was on holiday. Everyone was very friendly. I booked for a Naxi concert in the evening.

I thought it was music typical of the area. It wasn't it was ancient Chinese music on ancient instruments, mostly from the Tang dynasty, the locals protected their instruments during the Cultural Revolution. (video below) The only drawback was the length of introduction for each piece of music, then the 'leader' of the orchestra came on, he spoke for 15 to 20 minutes, nearly all in Chinese. By this time I decided I'd had enough, it was 9.30, the concert started at 8 p.m. but I'd probably heard under an hour of music, the rest was talking, so I went home to bed.

Street in the town.

Tuesday

Up early to go to Tiger Leaping Gorge. A 3 hour mini-bus ride, we picked up in a number of places so I was not alone. unfortunately it started o rain on the way,between the rain and the trafic the journey was closer to 4 hours.

Strawberry sellers on the roadside.

When we got to Tiger Leaping Gorge and Tina's Guest House I decided to have lunch before attempting a walk, the food was good and it stopped raining whilst I was eating, unfortunately it started again as soon as I was ready to go out. I walked along the road first, for about half an hour, then returned and started up the hill.

View from the road.

View across the gorge.

The path up

Tiger Leaping Gorge

The walk up was not as difficult as I had expected, I didn't go very far but I felt I would have been able to go much further. I would not have wanted to walk alone and the rain was a deciding factor in not continuing any further then. Slipping on wet stones was not in my plan for the trip and, having left my jacket in Shanghai, walking in the rain was not an option. As I didn't do the trek I may be wrong, but I felt that doing it from this direction, rather than starting with the 24/28 bends (as usually advised), was more doable, especially as they recommend taking 2 days for what is not a very long walk, distance wise anyway. I had made a decision not to attempt the trek based on panic and fear, it was a lesson to me to make decisions on site with all the information.
The mini bus broke down as we were about to leave, we were an hour late starting back, and he drove very slowly, so we got back late, on the other hand some of the top road had no barriers and was very narrow so I was grateful he was a careful driver.
Altogether I enjoyed my day, worth the £15. I also got the hostel to book my ticket from Dali to Kunming, the first ticket that I didn't book myself.

A typical house

The wooden structure

Above are two photos of the hostel, I really liked this one. (Garden Inn)
Wednesday, 4th Raining again when I got up but I followed my plan of going to Black Dragon Pool. I was trying to have a cheap day but when I got to the park the entrance fee was 80 yuan (£8), much more than I'd anticipated. I was about to pay up, handing over 100 yuan, when the girl looked at me and asked how old I am, when I told her she handed back the note and let me in free! I know elderly locals get into the parks free but it's the first time it's happened to me.

The park was lovely, the water so calm, though there was no reflection of Jade Snow Mountain because of the clouds.

Having paid for a Naxi concert the first night here there was one for free. (video below) At one point there were loads of fire crackers and a procession of people with flowery decorations, unfortunately I was on the wrong side of the lake to get a good picture. some of the people looked as if they were wearing turbans! They all processed up Elephant Hill.
When I got back into the town I was accosted by a guide, he was trying to persuade me to go to some village with him. It migh have been good but I hadn't factored in that kind of trip. If I had met him on my first day I might have done Tiger Leaping Gorge with him. I went to Pizze hut for lunch, the menu was very different to anything we have in the UK and the pizzas were about the same price. I went to a tea shop and bought some Jasmine Tea, at least that's what I asked for, with hindsight I don't think it is, but it gave me something to drink on train journeys. I started to feel settled in Lijiang and loathe to move on, it was the town I most enjoyed in China.