Wednesday, April 3, 2013

week 2

Day 1 Baños de Montemayor to Calzada de Bejar 14kms
I woke up at 06.55 again, I wasn't in any hurry but I got up anyway. There were 2 Spanish cyclists who had decided to give up because of the weather, they were up too. I had a chocolate drink and a Mars bar and started off. I was feeling more positive and considered walking the 30kms to Fuenterroble. It was still pouring with rain, so I remembered to put my hood up!
The path out of Baños was paved but steep, mostly it was not too wet but there were odd puddles and not always easy to see. The paving continued until the border with Castilla y Leon then puddles and streams continued to be a problem, I keep moving stones from one place to another to cross stretches of water.
New sign for Castilla and Leon, I wasn't sorry to see the last of the Extremadura blocks as I never got the hang of them.

 A nice use of under motorway space1
When I got to Calzada de Bejar I gave up on my plan to walk to Fuenteroble. I went to the bar to have a coffee and buy some food, then I discovered that the Hospitalera does dinner and breakfast. The Albergue has a lovely fire and my boots have time to dry.
Apparently  2 of the Italians from Casar de Caceres were here the night before, the couple seem to have given up. I settled in for a quiet evening alone when another pilgrim turned up, an English woman from Australia.
Day 2 Calzada de Bejar to Fuenterroble +/- 21 kms
Up at 7 for breakfast. Not raining! We had been warned not to take the camino straight away but to follow the road until the second sign as the first stretch is flooded. We had also been warned about a river that is impossible to cross, but that we can get over if we go through a gate. We were told not to walk alone and we had agreed to walk together at least until the river. Manuela said we would hear the river but we didn't, then a man on a tractor started yelling at us. We heard 'No pasais!' but thought he was referring to an enormous puddle we had just come to.
Being female and English we were determined to try, we struggled to get passed the water, only to discover that we had come to the river, so we had to struggle back!
We went back to the gate, I thought it would be the gate of a field but it was the gate leading to a farm, we had to walk up a farm drive then passed the buildings and exit by another drive. Eventually we got back to the camino.
I had managed early on to get water over the top of one boot, later we came to another river, there were granite blocks as stepping stones but they did not reach the width of the water and I got water over the top of the other boot. I did a little stone moving and placed another stone and Riqie managed to get across.
I had heard much about Fuenterroble and was very disappointed. It was occupied by some friends of Don Blas, they had lunch together in the main room so I had to sit in a freezing cold room to eat mine. I felt unwelcome and in the way. Later a heater was lit upstairs and I sat up there. I was invited to join them for their evening meal but they were eating at 9pm which is too late for me.
Day 3 Fuenterroble to Morille +/- 28 kms
As I went off to sleep I realised that I had not seen my shampoo since I showered so I reminded myself to look in the morning. I put on my alarm for 7.15 and put in my earplugs. There were 9 of us in the room, 4 females, 5 males, all older men. I was aware of someone snoring during the night but my earplugs are very effective. I was woken in the morning by light and people talking, I looked at my watch and thought it was 6.30, then I noticed that the mother and daughter next to me had gone, I was surprised, then I realised it was daylight, it was 7.40. I don't know if my alarm went off but if it did I must have been the only one not to have heard it.
I got up and went down for breakfast and checked on my shampoo, it had gone, someone had nicked it, that just added to my general disappointment with the place. Finally we set off, then Rique remembered she had forgotten to leave a donation so we went back, we finally started at 8.45. Four of the men were ahead of us, they were taking a stroll before lunch!

 Remains of Roman road
We made good progress for a while then we saw a major water feature ahead of us. The men had stopped, then we found they had been plotting a course for us, they had made an opening in the barbed wire fence into another field and directed us to a place were there was less water and we could cross back. That was most useful, I don't know what I would have done if I had been on my own, especially as they held my back pack for me.  The men decided to go back after that.


We continued and walked the 11kms until we reached the spot were there should be signs showing a choice of routes. Right for a longer higher route to San Pedro de Rosadas and a shorter lower route to the right, leading to Morille. We had decided to take the shorter route! we found someone had completely vandalised the signs for the right, leaving just the ones for San Pedro.
 We stopped for a break then walked the 4 or 5 kms to Pedresillos, where there is a bar (2 in fact) and an Albergue. We stopped for a coffee and from there the camino followed the road, via Monterubio to Morille. This was the first day in ages that it did not rain and  I did not get my feet wet.
The Albergue is very small (6 beds) and only a bedroom and a bathroom but there is a heater and as we were only 2 it was fine. we had dinner in the bar and then went to bed!

Day 4 Morille to Salamanca +/- 16kms
We got up early , had some breakfast and left. The lady in the bar said it was 16 kms to Salamanca, I'm not sure I believe her. We had also been told about a stretch of water that needed paddling, we were a little worried. It was pouring with rain. When we got to the water feature there was no alternative to paddling and we decided just to go for it, after that we were soaked and I just kept walking.
It would have been possible to take a slight detour for a coffee but it would have been too uncomfortable getting slightly warm and then getting cold again. The walk was relatively flat but very muddy and the wind was strong and cold. Then when we just got close to Salamanca there was another major water feature and the only way across was through, we were very wet and not very happy when we arrived.

Salamanca was like most big cities, you get there and then have to walk around for ages till you arrive! it is packed with tourists (Good Friday) who looked at us as if we were mad.
I went to the Albergue,

I was allowed to leave my boots and bag but it didn't really open until 4 so I could not stay there and eat my lunch as I planned. Rique was staying in a hotel but had forgotten the name so we went to a bar to resuscitate ourselves.


The weather improved and some of the processions managed to go in the evening, I found them less impressive than Astorga.

Day 5 Salamanca to El Cubo de Vino 35kms
I was woken by the dawn chorus, what a lovely way to wake up. I got up at 6.45, the hospitaleras were up too and let me out at 7.15. I had a very slow walk through the old city, it was so beautiful and there were no tourists. I found a bar for breakfast and finally left Salamanca at 8.15.
The fist village I came to had a bar but it was closed, I was glad I had had breakfast in Salamanca. There was a small supermarket open so I got some fruit. I tried walking off road but the paths were glutinous, claggy and slippery so I opted for following the road. Much of the route seemed to be on the road. I get the impression that the camino has been displaced by the new motorway. I had a second coffee in Calzada de Valdunciel, the guy in the bar told me that it was only 15km more but it wasn't. After about 8 I came to a sign pointing off road and backwards through a very wet area, so I passed on that, there were also arrows pointing ahead and under the motorway so I went that way, from  there on the road followed the motorway and was much drier. Eventually I arrived at El Cubo de Vino, I stayed at AT Torre de sabre, they were very welcoming, it is a good albergue, I had dinner and breakfast, my clothes washed and dried and he produced a computer! There was one other pilgrim, a German who started in Salamanca.
Day 6 - El Cubo de Vino to Zamora 34 km
The clocks went forward last night but we got up early as it is a long walk to Zamora. Andreas wanted to arrive for the 1pm Mass and procession, I wanted to arrive in time for my Easter Sunday lunch! The walk was much dryer, not only because it didn't rain (2 days in a row) but also because the ground is better drained. I stopped for coffee in Villa Nueva de Campean then rushed on. I got to Zamora just after 2.30 and went to the Albergue first because I found it first, then rushed on for lunch, I had been dreaming of roast lamb all morning!  I found a restaurant open but they were fully booked so I tried the sob story: I'm a pilgrim and have dreamed of lunch all morning:) So he let me have a meal in the bar, it was very noisy and also the waiting area for the restaurant, they had sittings going on till 4, so I needn't have rushed so.
After lunch I returned to the Albergue to shower and change. The Albergue is very well equipped., There are more people here, some who seem to be starting here, some have walked and some have come by bus! I went to the Tourist Office to get info on the route through Portugal but I arrived at 17.45 and it closed at 17.30!



There are 30 something km to walk tomorrow but I am not in a hurry. I returned to the Albergue to rest, the lights in my room went out at 8, a problem with the electricity, but it was light until 8.30, then I decided to have an early night!
Day 7 - Zamora to Muelas del Pan ??????kms.
One of the cyclists in my room had his alarm on for 07.00 but he just turned it off and didn't get up. I had mine on for 7.15 but as I was awake I turned it off and got up and went for breakfast. The hospitalera told me that her light had gone off the night before but that it was working now so I tried when I went back and it was working.
I had to leave at 8, I waited around until the Post Office opened at 8.30 then went up to the Cathedral, which is really beautiful, and started my walk.

 I had promised myself I would not rush today, I would regret this later!
The path was well signed, though it varied from the guide near the beginning, I think it had been diverted by the new motorway, I also think the diversion was longer!
I had planned to stop for coffee in La Hiniesta but the bar was closed, ? permanently.
After La Hiniesta I had to pass under a railway bridge, the path was full of muddy water, there was a construction site on the other side and they were simply emptying the muddy water under the bridge, once I had negotiated the muddy water I had to traverse about 50 metres of really claggy mud that I just sank into, it was awful. It started raining just before I got to Casa de Palomares, I hadn't put the cover on my back-pack as I was trying to dry socks! I had to traverse another water feature before I could get to a derelict building and rest and cover my bag. There was a very strong head wind all day though mostly it was dry and sunny. The whole route was very well marked but it seemed to take forever. I know I was late starting but it was after 2pm when I stopped for lunch and I had apparently only done 18.5 kms. Then I got to San Pedro de La Nave, a beautiful church from the 7th century that has been moved, stone by stone, from it's previous site, which is now in a reservoir.


I had overlooked the fact that it is closed on Mondays but that is just the luck of the camino. I hadn't really taken in the instructions for leaving San Pedro, other than that I would need to cross a stream, this had given me cause for concern. In the bar I was advised not to follow the camino but to backtrack and take a turn off higher up, so I did this. the path I took suddenly petered out so I carried on down through a field to a path I could see below. Then I  turned left and eventually the path turned up and I found myself returning to San Pedro. I decided that I would just have to paddle the stream so I continued and planned to follow the camino. It is scary being in the middle of nowhere with no idea of which way to turn, at least with arrows I would have a guide. When I got back to the village the Guardia Civil were there, I asked them for directions and they sent me up to the road. It was a long walk and in the last hour the heavens opened with rain and hail. Finally I arrived in Mueles del Pan, I totally ignored the signs for the town and followed those that led to a restaurante and Casa Rural, my guide said it was also a Pension. I got there just before 8pm I have never walked so late, I was exhausted. There was no Pension but I was offered Pilgrim price in the Casa rural, I had a lovely room and ate in the Bar. I was nearly too tired to eat and delighted to get into bed. I had been told I could breakfast at 8 so that was fine.

Thursday, March 21, 2013

Via de la Plata part 2

Day 1 - the journey
Up at 05.00 :( I had tried to work out what was the latest time I could get up and not miss the bus (3kms walk up hill in the dark), then I realised that I might not have time for breakfast in Ourense so I decided to get up early and have breakfast at home, it was as well I did as I did not have time and there was nothing on the train. Of course I ended up being too early for the bus, I spent half an hour at the bus stop watching the sun rise.

The bus was a tad early so I was not sorry to be there early.
The train from Ourense to Leon stopped at very station on the way, and I think it went out of it´s way to find extra ones. At Leon we swapped trains, we crossed the platform and got into one identical so I don´t know why. The second train had a drinks machine:) Fortunately I was well prepared with food and drink. I had a good meal (with wine) and listened to a couple of plays on my new smart phone that I haven´t got the hang of yet.
The train arrived in Madrid on time and I had plenty of time to cross Madrid to Atocha station. I had done my homework and new I needed to get to Line 1.  I thought this was the metro but it was not, it was something called 'cercanias', it still went underground but from the main station. By sheer good fortune I found my way to the right place.
I find city train stations such confusing places these days, they are like giant shopping Malls with some platforms hidden away somewhere. Fortunately my trip went smoothly, I had plenty of time in Atocha for a wander around and another coffee, my first since breakfast. There was a stall selling Loukoum (Turkish Delight) and Baklava, I love both and very seldom get an opportunity to buy them. I passed on the Baklava but bought some Turkish Delight, as if I didn´t have enough to carry!
The train from Madrid to Caceres was also a 'cercania', it was very slow, very hot and vibrated like hell. It also stopped at every station and arrived 25 minutes late. I rushed across Caceres to get to my hotel as I had said I would arrive between 11 and 11.30pm, I got there at 11.35, not bad. I was very pleased to get to bed.

Day 2 - Caceres to Casar de Caceres 10 or 11kms.
I got up just before 8 and started walking in sunshine. I found my first shell on the wall of the bull-ring.
I made the mistake of thinking that the 'rays' pointed the direction that I wanted to go, fortunately I was put right by a man sweeping the street, soon I found one of the typical granite blocks of Extremadura,
the path was well signed to start with, then there was 4kms up the side of a fairly busy road.
I only saw 1 arrow, obviously if all the instructions say walk up the side of the road it is idiot proof, but I do like to see some arrows, if you don´t and you go wrong the lack of signs is no indication. I think I went wrong at about 6kms:) By this time it was a path running parallel to the road, then there were 3 paths, all seemed to be parallel so I chose the middle one. One was marked VP, as this means Via Pecuaria and not Via de la Plata I didn't think it applied to me, later I decided that that was the route I should have taken. The path I took eventually petered out and I had to climb a ditch to get back on the road. There was a lovely path on the other side of the road, but at that point I could not get to it. Then I saw 2 people ahead on the other side, they looked like pilgrims but where they had come from I could not imagine, I had walked 6kms on flat ground and seen no-one, either in front or behind. We came up to the Motorway, the people I could see took a path running parallel to the Motorway so I crossed over and followed them. For a while I could see them occasionally then they disappeared. Eventually there was a road across the motorway and I followed it into Casar de Caceres. I saw a sign again just as I entered the town, when I looked behind me there was another sign, completely in the opposite direction from the one I had com in on, and I never saw the people I had been following.
I have invested in a pedometer, I am so fed up with finding distances are stupidly wrong. I don't know if the pedometer is right, it said 10kms, the book said 11!
Casar de Caceres is a lovely little town, the Albergue is fine and free.

The Town Hall

The Albergue

one of the local chimneys.

The church was preparing for Holy Week.

We ended up as 6 in the Albergue, 4 Italians a German and me, all very sociable. The only problem was that the electricity kept cutting out, but when they don't charge I don't know how they provide electricity at all.

Day 3 - Casar de Caceres to Alcantara 20.5 or 22.8kms
 A good nights sleep, there were warnings about the Town Hall clock striking every hour, I used my earplugs and only heard 10pm and 7am!
I decided to be the last out as I had been the first to arrive and had been given the key, they asked that I return it. Being last was not difficult as everyone was up by 7.15.
There was a bar open in the town so we were able to have breakfast and then set off. A beautiful sunny morning and beautiful countryside. The first 12 to 13 kms were again along the VP, this time it was also the old roman road.
At one`point I saw a large bovine animal ahead of me, it was lowing plaintively. I thought it was a cow searching for it's calf, then I got a closer side view and realised that this was definitely a bull. I wondered if I was brave enough to pass on my own and decided that I wasn't, so I back tracked slightly to see if Wolfgang was in sight but he wasn't. I carried on slowly at the same pace as the bull which was heading forward, I hoped that I might get an opportunity to pass, then a red van arrived, it was someone from the farm and he made the bull turn round, then he had to pass me but at least I was not alone.
Towards the end of the walk we had to take a detour to avoid the construction site for the new high speed train line (AVE), then the path became narrow and up and down but full of pretty flowers, great for my hay fever, but a lovely walk.
a wild orchid I think.

The last 5 kilometres were along the road, I was very glad to arrive at the Albergue, it overlooks the reservoir and it is a lovely day.
View from the Albergue.
They say that tomorrow it will rain!
Day 4 Alcantara to Grimaldo  ????kms
I woke up in the night to hear knocking, at first I thought it was someone trying to get in. We were only 2 in the Albergue and I didn't feel inclined to get up and check. I hoped that if anyone tried to get in they would find Wolfgang first! Soon I realised that it was the wind  blowing a door somewhere, I could also hear rain. It was 4am so I turned over and ignored it. I got up at 7am had breakfast and started about 8am, in the rain. I was quite determined I was not going to walk on the road today and I new I had to turn off somewhere, I had walked about 4 kms when I remembered seeing the turn off just before the turn off for the Albergue, I should have backtracked slightly. I was stuck on the road, it ran next to the railway, the same line I had travelled on from Madrid, but I had not been able to appreciate the scenery then. The countryside looked like the west of Ireland, green hills with clouds over them and swamp/marsh in the valleys!

remains of Roman bridge
Twice I heard, what sounded like, cows in labour, it certainly sounded like cows in pain. Most of the cows had calves with them, I wondered if they were just left to labour on their own.
I walked the 10kms into Cañaveral on the road, admittedly there was very little traffic but it was still road. It rained off and on, mostly on to start with but the dry patches became longer. By the time I got to Cañaveral I wanted a coffee but I wanted  a loo even more. I found 3 bars but they were all closed, then I saw the Town Hall so I decided to see if I could use their facilities, I went in and it was all dark, no one was visible but the first door I saw was the Ladies so I just used it and left:) of course I then found an open bar so I had a coffee as well.
old chimney pot on roundabout!
From Cañaveral I still had to walk about 1.5kms on the road but then I found the turn off, it went uphill, through a wood, not well signed at first but then the signs became good and frequent, after the wood the path crossed a road, went behind a hotel and turned into 'parkland' with cork oaks. The paths are very wet and muddy, particularly as they are used by cows, it is sometimes difficult to find the driest route. There were lots of streams to cross but these were crossable, nothing as bad as the 'arroyos' between Sevilla and Guillena.


There were not as many flowers as yesterday but still some including 2 varieties of small daffodils, one like the ones I had seen at home and one white one.
I also heard my first cuckoo of this spring. I got to Grimaldo in time for lunch. The Albergue is a lovely little house, my info said it is unheated but that isn't true. I settled myself in comfortably, I thought I was going to be alone then suddenly 3 Spanish cyclists turned up, then Wolfgang, so my peace and quiet was shattered.
I have no idea how far I really walked, my book said 20 my info from Extremadura Tourist Office says16.3 and my pedometer said 9.56. When I got to Cañaveral it said 9.56 and that was about right as I had been walking up the road and watching the kilometer markings on the road, I don't think I re-set it, so I reckon the 20 was about right.
The Italians who had been at Casar de Caceres had continued onto Cañaveral the next day, the 2 guys stopped in Grimaldo for coffee and told the barman that they had not been at all happy at the Hotel Malaga, they said it was dirty and the food was not good.

Day 5 Grimaldo to Carcaboso +/- 30 kms
Everyone planned to get up at 7am, by good fortune I woke up at 6.55, so I got to the bathroom first, then I had an orange and a muesli bar for breakfast and started off at 7.30.
The first part of the walk was lovely, apart from the sodden ground,
then it rained heavily for about 2 hours, but it was still a pleasant walk, through parkland, then we came to a village, I'm not sure of it's name, Argamassa I think, it was not mentioned in any of my info but it had a bar and came at a good time for a coffee stop, about 10kms from Grimaldo. From there it was on the road for the 6-7 kms to Galisteo, where I bought some food, in case the shops in Carcaboso were shut, it being Saturday. I bought enough for evening and morning and some emergency supplies, then I had to carry it! The next 10kms were also on the road, there was a path next to the road but the mud was so slippery I preferred the road. There was one little bit of the path that was absolutely covered with tiny irises, they are not out yet but in another week or two they should look beautiful.
The Albergue Municipal in Carcaboso was closed, I didn't make the phone call so I do not know if it was a permanent thing or just that day. We had to go to Sra Elena's, she only has a microwave and almost no equipment so I could not cook much. By sheer coincidence I arrived at Sra Elena's at the same time as Wolfgang. She asked if we were a couple, so I said 'No' she then showed us to a room and assured us that no one else would be joining us!! Then she showed us the bathroom where there are 2 showers and made a great point of the fact that there were 2 showers!! What a strange place the Camino is. In fact there were 2 showers but when I showered the water was cold.
My new jacket works well and I do not get really wet but it is too warm so I still end up damp. My pedometer is useless so I've thrown it away, along with the info from the Extremadura Tourist Office, I'll stick with my guidebook. I know my walking speed varies, today I have averaged 4 kms an hour, but that includes stops for drinks, photos etc.
Sunday, Day 6
What a day!
I woke up at 6.55 again, it seemed reasonable, I got up, had a chocolate drink and some baby 'stollen' that I had brought from home and set off at 7.45
Sra Elena had drawn me detailed instructions of how to get to Caparra - so I wouldn't get lost. This was useful for getting out of Carcaboso but afterwards I would have been better just going with the arrows and signs.
It has been the worst day yet, it hasn't really rained but the ground is so wet. The first 10 kms or so were through countryside, it would have been pleasant if I hadn't spent all my time watching were I was putting my feet. I got to a lovely part where the path led down to a stream but there seemed no way of crossing it.
I searched various spots, then walked back up the path, I walked on what looked like grass and the water went over the top of my boot! I suppose after that it didn't matter too much but I was still trying not to get too wet and the water was fast flowing, in the end I found some stepping stones, they were mostly under water but not too deep. I crossed over, followed the path for a while and discovered that I had to cross back over the same stream. This time there was no way I could do it so I went back, re-crossed where I crossed originally and then went back up to another path and walked along until I got beyond the stream and want down again. there were several other streams, all equally difficult and most of the ground around is swamp. The cows are often standing up to their knees in water!

In one place I found 2 dead cows, these most definitely died in labour so I was probably right about the cows the other day. I don't understand why farmers don't watch out for cows in labour, I'm sure they are expensive animals, maybe they aren't!
Then I came to a gate and arrows going in 2 directions, one way said for bikes, so I took the other, eventually I came to a road, the sign was a little ambiguous, well, only because I never got it into my head that the arch shows the direction!   Sra Elena's instructions seemed to say turn left, so I did, big mistake. I thought I was only 2 or 3 kms from Venta Quemada, which I was, but I walked and walked and got really depressed, I could not understand why I was taking so long. I walked about 8 kms, came to a road junction and an arrow pointed to Caparra, back the way I had come. I could have cried. Then a car approached slowly, I flagged them down and asked for directions and they offered to drive me back to Venta Quemada, I was very grateful. They were 2 gypsy types pulling a horse box and going somewhere to collect an animal but they were so kind. after that I was happy to walk the 6 kms to Caparra, the path was not too wet but there were a lot of streams to cross. They had granite blocks as stepping stones but one had had its blocks moved and it was too far for me to step. I thought I was going to have to take my boots off, the water would have been above my knees. Then I saw a wall at the end of the field, it was broken and had a barbed wire fence but I was able to use the barbed wire as support and climb across that.

I was very grateful to get to Caparra, I had booked a hotel and they came and picked me up. I had my own room and bathroom and TV and a good lunch!
Day 7  Caparra to Baños de Montemayor  +/- 20kms
I woke about 6, eventually went back to sleep and woke again at 07.45! I had breakfast in the bar and left at 8.30. I was 4 kms off the camino and had to walk along the road, but after my experience of yesterday I decided the road was best. It was a 'Nacional' but very quiet, as it runs parallel to the motorway. It is about 11 kms to Aldea Nueva del Camino, where I stopped for a coffee. Then I continued on to Baños de Montemayor. I had originally planned to stop here then decided to continue to Calzada de Bejar as the first bit had been shorter but the weather became horrendous and it just rained and rained.I hadn't put my hood up as, by the time I realised that it was really raining, my hair was wet. When I got to Baños I was soaking, but the Albergue was shut, it was due to open at 13.15. I went to a bar, whilst I was there I asked about the road to Calzada de Bejar, apparently there isn't one, I would have to walk the camino, the road goes only to Bejar. a lady told me not to take the road as it is a mountain pass and the visibility was very poor, so I went back to the Albergue.

The Albergue only has a microwave and no equipment but I had bought something, that looked like a Cornish pasty, in Aldeanueva and I have some wine! I was not going out. It was raining like it rained in the Pyrenees, the next day was all uphill and it would be on the camino, so I decided to take a short day.

Sunday, March 17, 2013

Ready to go!

 I've got my train ticket and booked my hotel in Caceres. I haven't packed my bag yet but everything is in a pile ready. Tuesday I will be off, another early morning walk to the bus, then 8 hours on the train to Madrid. I hope the train to Madrid is not delayed as I only have a short time to cross Madrid for the train to Caceres.
I've been pretty good about walking regularly but I still huff and puff when I walk uphill. Friday, as I staggered uphill, I was driven to asking myself; 'Why, oh why am I doing this? Why don't I just give in and admit to old age?'  Why is walking sometimes pleasant and sometimes an awful chore? Why do I have the camino bug?
This winter has been very wet, very different from last year, and quite a bit of that has been snow, nevertheless there are signs that spring is coming. 
Primroses and violets are in flower.


There are also fields of tiny daffodils


But the woods still look creepy, it is easy to see why Galician folklore is full of witches and wood sprites. 

 The following picture was taken in a tiny, almost uninhabited village, but what a lovely touch, more like this on the Camino would be welcome.


Monday, February 18, 2013

next camino!

I started walking regularly, then it snowed again, so I stopped, but I am going to be better, I have to be. I think I have made the decision. I aim to do the Via de la Plata via Portugal, starting in Caceres about the 19th March. The Cami Catalan  will be for October, I hope. The Ingles will have to come sometime in the future, this winter has been very wet, much wetter than last year. I hope I will be able to walk via Portugal, it is very difficult to get up to date info. I will probably make the final decision when I get to Zamora. There is a shortage of places to sleep in Portugal and I am not planning to carry a tent so I may end up sleeping rough a couple of times, not my style at all, I hope the weather will be good in April, perhaps I should invest in a sleeping mat:)

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Thinking what's next!

It's nearly time for the next camino! I have had a lazy time since the last one and eaten far too much over Christmas, time to lose weight. Last week I promised myself that I would start walking this week, so I started yesterday. It was incredible how quickly I got out of breath. I'm not planning anything long at the moment, I will just stick to 7 to 8 kms daily.
The big question is; Which camino? I have made tentative plans, by that I mean started gathering information, on 3; the Via de la Plata - Caceres to Ourense, the Levante - Valencia to Zamora and the Cami Catalan - Sant Pere de Rodes (via San Juan de la Pena and the Aragones) to Pamplona or Burgos. Which one I do depends on when I can walk. For the Via de la Plata I want to be around Salamanca area for Holy Week, for the Levante I want to be in Valencia during the week before San Jose (19th March), so I can enjoy a little of the Fallas and the Mascleta. Only the Catalan  does not have a date requirement, though I think it would be sensible to start some time in April. At the moment I am enjoying the 'planning'. I am very lucky that I do not have to arrange a flight so I can leave the date open till the last minute. I had half thought that if there would be a week of fine weather this winter I might do the Ingles, I have got so lazy I haven't even looked at the weather but who know's now I am motivating myself I may even do that!